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Very nice! I've always loved Duettos as racers. It's a shame the over sized roll bar ruins the look.

When I was racing (in a GTA) I always found a bit of oversteer was faster. And scarier! Especially with a sliding block that would hang up late in some races!!!

Good Luck!

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #182 (Edited)
Yes, Robert, that's a tall cage that some in the vintage scene might find ugly. But my head and its delicate innards appreciate the protected space. It's also a necessity for when I choose to run the car in more modern race groups.

Speaking of racing, I recently stumbled into an online article in Sports Car Digest which covered the SOVREN Spring Sprints race I attended. Marshall Autry wrote the article and took this picture (amongst many other fine photos):
 

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Discussion Starter #183 (Edited)
I also attended the inaugural SOVREN race at the recently renovated Spokane Raceway Park earlier this month. Didn't get any decent photos, though I had a great time at the reconfigured track. The car ran better with new jetting, and I installed Koni Yellows up front (had reds before) along with PU bushings for the front anti-roll bar. Handling is steadily improving, but I've had some disconcerting bump steer for which I plan a set of dropped spindles.

I might also improve some of the car's perceived twitchiness with a larger steering wheel. I was running a 300 mm wheel before, and will now use a 330 mm model. The smaller wheel will take up residence on my office cabinet as a racing memento. I'll take it down when no one's around and make "vroom-vroom" noises while steering around desks and computers.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
I recently added a mini lathe to my mini shop. I've been waiting for these to come with the new brushless DC motor, so here it is. This will open some doors (or a can of worms).

A keen eye will notice the celebratory glass of cheap cab off to the side, to be savored after the machine was installed. But not while machining. Do not drink and machine, folks.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I've never messed with a lathe before. So after practicing on some minor projects (bushings, spacers, etc.), I decided to make a custom shift knob for the racer to replace the current modern Momo unit. The following pics should be self-explanatory:
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Part of the challenge of machining this knob was fitting it into the collet after trimming some angles to the ends of the knob. The jaws wouldn't close on the angled ends, so I had to machine a lip for the jaws to grip from the inside. What to do with that remaining space when the knob was done? Machine a button to mount an 18th Century silver coin. Now that's vintage!
 

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Discussion Starter #190
No, Eric, I'm working through this weekend. But I will be attending the Maryhill hill climb and the Fall Finale. I may have to look into Conference racing to fill in the gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #192 (Edited)
Pre-Labor Day labor

In my ongoing effort to shave weight off the car, I stumbled into an often overlooked part that is just screaming to be replaced with an exotic light weight metal:

The brake pad retention pins.

I don't know who's crazy idea it was to save a few dollars and make these parts out of cheap steel, but these veritable boat anchors can with great effort and considerable expense be replicated in titanium. So I did. While doing so, my modification is to extend the pin's nose outside the caliper and secure it with a small clip.

Was the juice worth the squeeze? I'll let you judge for yourself as you observe the process and marvel at the weight savings:
 

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very nice work . How is the titanium to work with and how much does it cost to save that much mass ?

Also, nice knob . I was going to make a custom one myself and then I noticed how hot the stick gets . But I would guess you will be wearing gloves .
 

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Discussion Starter #196
David, the Ti is about a buck an inch for 1/4" rod. Ti gets exponentially more expensive as the cross section of the metal enlarges. As for it's machining properties, it's like stainless, and is hard on high speed steel tooling. But not too bad for carbide bits with lots of lube.
 

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Discussion Starter #197
A matching set

Finally made an aluminum e-brake handle to replace the cracked plastic stock unit. While a new plastic handle is about $279 or something crazy like that, my cost for the aluminum was about 45 cents. But my amateur machinist labor costs (at an appropriately discounted rate) makes this sucker about $492. Yeah, for some reason, this handle was a real pain to fabricate compared to the shift knob I made a while back.
 

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What is the red can in the photo ?:rolleyes:

That little 2.5 lb baby is not going to put out a real fire.
Get a 5lb abc it will cost you a little weight but give
a lot more peace of mind .

You can get the same brand of extinguisher in a 5lb that will give
you 4 times the B rating . B is gasoline and the like .

See here for more info
http://www.amerex-fire.com/system/file_asset/file/72/ABC_Page.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #200
David, the fire bottle is to supplement my future remote fire system. I'm putting up with the small bottle because it is an open car with a much easier exit path. Speaking of fires, I once saw a Porsche racer burn from the outside in when it spun into some tall dry grass which it set ablaze. It was a track day, so not many corner workers available to get to that spot in time. The built-in system was useless against the grass fire under the engine, and he didn't have a separate detachable fire bottle on board. Kind of sad.

Mr. Racer, the lathe is a 7X12 unit with a DC motor. You can find more specs and prices here: LittleMachineShop.com - HiTorque 7x12 Mini Lathe
I'm eyeballing their mill, too. As for the knurler, it's just a pair of hardened steel rollers that clamp down on and cut a cross-hatch pattern into the metal workpiece as it turns. The patterns are oriented transversely to each other, so you get a diamond pattern on the piece.
 
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