Not sure of the exact size. You may need to measure the ball joints with a caliper if you decide to use the pickle fork. I have used both a pickle fork and a ball joint remover as referenced in the previous post. The latter is a safer bet with regard to preventing tears in the ball joints and it is easier to use in tight spots.
Just for reference there are pickling fork attachments for air hammers if you have a compressor. Just saw one the other day at my local Sears.
JC Whiney have a couple of joint separators at a fraction of the cost of the IAP model. Buy them both and you will be able to separate ball joints and tie rod ends without damaging them.
74 GTV (3 days until it moves to Toronto)
79 Spider - about to get almost all my attention
88 Verde - daily driver
The front brake calipers are on the leading edge of the disc, while the rear calipers are on the trailing edge. Alfa engineers seem to have thought out everything - anyone know why this was done?
Not essential information but something I've been curious about.
I am considering putting a low mileage s4 engine in an S3 spider (89' w L jectronic). I only want to install the long block, not the Motronic bosch system as I know a conversion would be a nightmare. My concern is I understand the Crankshaft design on the S4 is different than the S3. So...
I noticed that the 164 & 168 guys have a very active thread about what they've been up to, and I think us Spider guys and gals need to get with the program- so I'm gonna start and see what happens!
Today was a very good day! It was a beautiful warm, clear day in South Florida, and I'm sorry to...
I'm about to pull the pedal cluster to replace the booster...looking at the current pivot pin, the welds look pretty solid. I don't know if this is original, an upgraded replacement, or a re-welded or repaired original.
But from what I see on the backside, I see a pretty stout weld...