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Some more feel-good stuff. Here is the engine block after being hot-tanked. It will never be this clean again. Should I polish it? :D Advance Auto Parts had a bottle of "Gasket Remover" that you spray on and let sit, then carefully scrape off the gasket. I'll be trying that soon. The hot tank chemicals weren't powerful enough to remove the residual gasket material. The shop said that the EPA took away all their good chemicals and left them with "Lemon Pledge soap suds." :p

That explains how you could Hot Tank an alloy block. In years past the caustic hot tank stuff would have turned your alloy block to mush. Aluminum blocks were always cold tanked if I remember correctly.

As far as Gasket Remover goes my guess is it's nothing more then paint stripper. That's what I use on tough gasket residue & it lifts the stuff no problem.
 

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This is the first time I saw this thread, and read the whole thing through.

WOW.

I'm truly jealous. I think I missed the part about the bumper conversion, so I'll have to look again. This is going to be a fun car.
 

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First time that I saw it too and read it from the start. I am too in admiration. Very good work for a first time welder! Spray job looks excellent. I will start a thread for my Alfasud when I start the body work, and trust me, the car is virtually Oxide Orange at the moment.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing your Spider when the engine is in!
 

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Discussion Starter #225
Thanks for the encouraging words, folks!

Some pieces are back from the chrome plater, so here they are installed on the back of the car. This is the only view of the car that is worth viewing at the moment, I'm afraid...

The trunk lid still isn't adjusted. Also, the black plastic strip under the bumper is wavy. I have two-sided tape for that. Everything needs to come back off for a little paint work (dirt near the left tail lamp) and to drill the holes in the quarter panel to secure the bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #227 (Edited)
Here's an idea born out of laziness. I didn't want to buy square tube stock (especially since metal yards aren't open on Sundays) to make a bracket to hold the engine, so I used a piece of the door beam from a scrapped Spider door. It seems to be solid, and I added a doubler plate inside just to be sure. The shape of the beam has perfect spacing for the studs on the engine block. Door beams are usually made from higher strength steel than typical body sheetmetal. I'll let you know if the engine lands on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
Now I have a question: The studs on the back of the block were removed by the shop that cleaned up the block. Does anyone know which holes get the short studs and which holes get the long studs? Also, which end of each stud goes into the block, the end with the long thread or the end with short thread?

Thanks.
 

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chiuso per ferie
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Now I have a question: The studs on the back of the block were removed by the shop that cleaned up the block. Does anyone know which holes get the short studs and which holes get the long studs? Also, which end of each stud goes into the block, the end with the long thread or the end with short thread?
All four studs should be the same nominal length. The book calls for 8X1X70. The 70mm is the nominal length of the stud. The nominal length is that portion which sticks out of the block. That portion that screws into the block is not included in the nominal length. So, as long as you have at least 70mm that sticks out of the block, don't worry about what goes where.

If you look carefully at them, you will see that there is fine thread on one end and coarse on the other. The coarse thread goes into the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #231 (Edited)
Osso -- thanks for the info!

Key -- The bumper is new, so no polishing was needed. The rubber insert, however, doesn't fit very well, so I have some work to do yet. The front bumpers weren't quite so nice, so I polished them using a bench buffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
The block has been cleaned up and is nearly ready.

John B. --- you're right. The Permatex gasket remover is just like paint stripper.

Does this head gasket surface look clean enough? I cleaned it over and over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #234
The oil pan and front cover are cleaned up. The aluminum alloy used for these pieces appears to be less resistant to corrosion than the block. Note the white corrosion that appeared almost immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Crankshaft was polished but didn't require a regrind. I posted a question in the Engine Rebuilding section asking what to do about the end bushing.
 

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Hi Bill- I enjoyed watching the progress you have made. I wanted to know what euro grill and bumper route you went, used or kit? These babies can be pricey. I'm driving a 79 spider. Thanks-Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #238 (Edited)
Hello Craig -- the bumpers are from Spider-Point in Germany. I bought them years ago (actually they were a birthday present from Wife77) before I had any idea how much more I would sink into this car! :D
 

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What a wife!;)
Are you guys considering an adoption by chance...:D
I am available for Alfa restoration duties... like any son would be!
I can be Son77.... well ok.... Son74 sounds good as well! :rolleyes:
 

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Id' replace that crankshaft end bush myself.

Have you investigated getting your block chemically cleaned as I would have thought it would come up cleaner and 'whiter' than what your photo shows? :).

Pete
 
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