[spider 83]

I brought my Spider 83 almost five years ago. I had enjoy every mile that I have drove in the northeast Ohio area.
As most of us had done, I learn how to fix it myself so; from clutch to shock absorbers, vacuum hoses, brakes to a long list of things that need to be fixed it was, finally mechanically worthy and safe to get those rev’s up and loud.
At the beginning of last year autumn I decide to restore the cosmetic part of the car. The spider was re-sprayed by the previus owner (ugly finish and oxidized paint), it had a few dings here and there and some rust that it need to be addressed. Here are some of the pictures of that work and the end result.

 

[spider 83]

Picture of the car when brought in home

 

[spider 83]

After buying an used 2.5HP 21 galon air compresor, harbor freight HVLP paint gun ad orbital sander I went nuts and strip the car to bare metal.

 

[bianchi2]

and???????

 

[smestas]

Looks like you are off to a great start! Looking forward to your next posting.

 

[spider 83]

To that point the car looked very solid until I got to the rocker panel. I was expecting some rust, reviewed, found a ton of bondo, removed just to find a 40% of the inner rocker was gone so I had to fabricate one. Got to buy a wire feed cheap welder (harbor freight) that turn to be great for novice welders like me. By the way, love the welding helmet, so cool.

 

[caliscouser]

sitting down with my popcorn for this one.....

 

[bianchi2]

..stuffing my face with choc. chip cookies

 

[AlfafaninNY]

I have been researching and thinking about doing the exact same thing. I cant wait to see this unfold..

 

[spider 83]

I got hungry too guys. A little rice and beans and I'm back.
OK, here we go:
16 ga metal sheets at the home depot, bend it at my kitchen counter and welded to the car. New middle rocker done. (Frankenstein look)
Lifted with several times on different places with the door closed to make sure it was solid. Result, no bending. Prime it with bare metal primer and finished with POR15.
Burn my finger when touching the rocker even wearing protective leather gloves, holy cow! f***K it was HOT, that blister hurt for days! Learn a lesson, it never happened again, but I learn to weld.
All repairs that I have done, where inspired on other members postings. I love the Alfa BB, so much knowledge spread through this pages!

 

[spider 83]

Brought the outer full-length rocker and welded back too. The passenger side was OK, just cleaned to bare metal and apply por15.
Don't need to remove the outer rocker, just grind the welding points that hold it bellow and push it out gently without bending, stuck a couple of 2x4 to keep it lifted and work the inner. (must cut the sides and weld them back together when done)
Now with the rocker experience I moved to the floor pans. More of the same, fabricating, welding, prime and por15, not before removing that crystallized Asphalt-kind of stuff from the pan. The drain holes eliminated at the front floor pans.
Be back tomorrow with more fun stuff.

 

[spider 83]

I have been researching and thinking about doing the exact same thing. I cant wait to see this unfold..

It is doable, not a big deal, just ride the learning curve until you get it right.

 

[SamW]

This is great, I am currently working on a few dings on mine, I will be painting it in the near future myself, so I will be here looking for advice.

 

[spider 83]

So, after finishing up the welding process, having all trim removed and striped to bare metal, clean de surface with Eastwood Pre Painting Prep Surface Cleaner or similar product. Use a tack rag on every panel before spraying.
3 coats of primer where apply (rust-oleum automotive primer right out of the spray can) apply a light coat first and wait until “flashes” (meaning waiting for the primer to start losing the wet shine, drying a bit. It takes about 5 to 10 minutes depending on the ambiance temperature) Then apply a second coat and a generous third. Let it dry overnight. It will take about 6 cans to do the job. (at about $5.00 ea = $30 bucks) Always follow the manufacturer instructions and wear protective gear or at least a respirator.
Your finger will be sore for a while after spraying out of the can.
When painting, do it one panel at the time overlapping by 50%, using a steady horizontal pattern to ensure even coverage. (plenty of professional advice videos on the web)

 

[ocduff]

You are the man. The car is looking good there. Love the ashtray full of butts. A cigarette always tastes best after a good weld - so I hear, anyway.

 

[spider 83]

It has been said that, on a paint job, the preparation is the key to a good result so, you should spend as much time is necessary on that stage. No shortcuts.
To have a straight body panel, you must expose the high and lows. You can achieve that by, over the primed panel applying a “guide coat”. It can be on spray or paste media. I used two cans of SEM guide coat that sells for about $4.00ea
Also, you are going to need a long sanding block as seen on the picture. It sells goes about $15.00 and obviously the auto adhesive 200 and 400 grit roll of sanding paper suitable for this purpose. (picture attached) 3M brand is best. Sells for about $40.00 ea. It is the most expensive supply on the project besides the paint and clear coat.

 

[spider 83]

You are the man. The car is looking good there. Love the ashtray full of butts. A cigarette always tastes best after a good weld - so I hear, anyway.

It is correct, <A must do for smokers>, one after sex, one after dinner & one after a good hot weld LOL

 

[spider 83]

So far $133.00 in supplies.
Now let’s get to it:
Spray or apply the guide coat. Pictures showing two examples. No need to apply a ton, just a light coat. This stuff it is like a black podwer, it dries in about five minutes and it is ready to play with it.
Next time a use black chalk, it is cheaper

 

[spider 83]

Next step is to, slowly, slide with almost no pressure the sanding block fitted with a 200 grit on a 45 degree angle to left and up following the contour of the panel. Slide down to where you started and repeat the movement but to the right. Move 50% to the next-adjacent area and repeat. Keep moving until you get to the edge to the panel. Tape the edges for protection.
At this point the sand paper should be clogged with material. Bowed with your air compressor and keep going. Sand paper goes a long way as long you keep it clear of dust.
Repeat the procedure with gentle strikes with the 400 to minimize sanding scratches. Attached are picture showing the result.

 

[spider 83]

After the previous step the dings, low spots are filled with bondo if is a deep ding or with glazing spot putty if they are shallow.
Let it dry overnight, grab the sanding block and even it with the 400. When done, clean with a tack rag, re-spray primer and let it seat over night. Remember one panel section at the time.