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1978 Spider
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone successfully removed the top from the OVS without cutting it off? Is it crimped on or welded or soldered?

If it's crimped I would assume you could slowly pry at the seam around the top.

If soldered can it be heated with a torch to melt away the solder or weaken it enough to separate the cap?

If welded then I guess cutting it off is the only way.

I soaked mine in diesel, as a solvent for a day and then flushed it out real good. But I guess you just don't know if you actually cleaned it if you can't see the inside. I mean, just how do you really know you got it cleaned otherwise?
 

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I wouldn't bother trying to cut off the lid on it...just make sure it is half way clean.
I agree with spiderserie4. If you can flow fluid between the two ports, then you at least have it unclogged. Sure, if you could disassemble it, you might get the inside perfectly clean and it would remain that way for about the next 50 miles. On the other hand, by prying/cutting the top off, you are likely to ruin it and replacements just aren't available.

In other words, the reward just ain't worth the risk.
 

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I soaked mine in kerosene for about a week. Picked it up out of the can about every day, sloshed it around, plugged the ports and shook it, etc. By the time I was done there were nasty chunks in the bottom of the can and the kerosene looked like molasses. Washed it real well with Dawn soap, more stuff came out. By the time I was done it flowed freely and could blow through any of the ports easily.
 

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I cleaned mine a while ago. Don't know if it was the right way but it was my way.
First I sprayed a can of break cleaner in it until it ran out clean.
Then I put it in a container of vinegar, put the container in an ultra sonic cleaner for a day or two. The screen in it is brass.
Sprayed more break cleaner in the input (top large opening). Noticed the the cleaner only came out the small outlet not the large lower opening. The small output is connected to the oil recovery hose at the base of the oil dip stick housing. The fact that the fluid did not come out the large bottom tube led me to believe that the VOS is working again almost as new..
BTW: The book says to add about a couple of oz. of oil to the hose, other wise the blowby will keep the oil from going down the (now dry, clean) hose. OH, You forgot to clean the hose??
Now;s the right time. ;)
 

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If you take the top off, you may not want to put it back on - I think you're better off not knowing what lurks beneath. I agree with the rest to use solvents to clean it out, and if you can blow air freely through all of the ports then its probably fine. That seems to have worked with mine.
 

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1978 Spider
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Discussion Starter #8
Like I said...I first soaked/submerged it in diesel (basically the same thing at Ski Bum did with kerosene)...actually kerosene/diesel/jet fuel are practically interchangeable (something like 99% identical)…diesel, like kerosene will dissolve oil and grease...it's actually the most effective de-greaser I've found.

then it was flushed with water and soap based liquid cleaners to remove all the diesel (which is an oily fuel) and placed in my toaster oven to dry it out and remove all the water moisture.

de-rusting/rust treatment was done by submerging in Ospho (phosphoric acid), although the vinegar treatment Samakijoe did would do the same thing (vinegar will dissolve rust, I have a 5 gal bucket full of high strength vinegar). But vinegar does not dry and leave a rust preventative coating on the metal afterwards as does Ospho.

I could blow easily thru all the tubes so it's flowing. But to what extent is it flowing the volume it should I do not know. I hope it to be clean inside but without a visual inspection it's all just faith.

I do note that after painting it I noticed a few pin holes in the casing. Likely from rusting inside out. Strange for a devise intended to trap oil...should not the oil have preserved the metal innards? A few drops of 2-part epoxy sealed the pin holes up.

anyway...some before and after pics...I tried 2 different colors as well since mine was painted "other-than-black" to begin with...

on the car...then trying to find a color match (I think it was same as the SPICA air box)...found something kinda SPICA grey/green/blue-ish...came out way too green/blue/sea colored...again with royal blue...

maybe I'll just go with bla bla grey or black? I mean, it's just a frekin oil can...right?
 

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The top on mine was rusted as well. I agree, its curious how an oil reservoir can rust, but obviously water vapor gets in there as well. I patched mine using epoxy, and painted. If you try to remove the lid, you may find it starts to crumble on you.
 

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You may be surprised how much water vapor your car "breathes". The OVS function pulls oil out of the air circulated though your engine an routes it back to the crankcase. During normal operation from engine heat your car evaporates much of the condensate and water your car breathes from the air. If you dont reach operating temperature for nominal amounts of time this water vapor does not get evaporated off. Doesnt surprise me a bit that they rust from the inside out, especially in more humid climates.
 

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1978 Spider
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Discussion Starter #11
the big "dimple" on the top had a good sized hole in it. I used a quarter sized metal plug/disc thing I had lying around and JB welded it on. possibly visible in the 4th picture
 
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