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Discussion Starter #1
So I was driving home from work two nights ago and all of a sudden I see my temperature light go on. I stopped, pulled over, popped the hood, and the car was boiling coolant. I noticed the fan wasn't running. I fixed the fan problem, so now it runs properly, but the car still overheats!

My questions are:
Why would this still be happening?
Could my water pump be broken and that be causing my problems?
Could there be something in the thermostat housing causing problems?
Any suggestions or things to look at?


Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Three thoughts:
Do you have a good seal between the filler cap and the overflow bottle? It is not a great design IMO.

Did you get all the air out of the system after the first boil-over? There is a bleed screw on the thermostat housing and the heater valve should be open when you are filling the system.

Is the exterior surface of the radiator cooling fins clean? I had a greasy deposit cause my Spider to overheat a couple of summers ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did bleed the system after the overflow, however, the brass bolt is very, very hard to loosen. Do you have a suggestion for how i could make it easier to loosen in the future?

Another thing, the fan is only fixed after I connect those 2 wires together that power the ac fan you put in. it never used to be that way, so is there some reason why that may now be the case?
 

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The fan should be turned on by the radiator temperature switch. There is also a relay involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
that's what i thought. is it possible that my radiator temp switch is bad?

also, is a bad water pump at all possible, or is that out of the question?
 

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I could be a bad pump, or a loose belt, make sure the Alt belt is tight enough and not slipping. Also check the oil for coolant and the coolant for oil. You might pull the relay and the fuse in the relay and clean them both, I had a relay go bad once because the fuse got all crusty and dirty and melted it. Not pretty...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sam,
Thanks for the suggestions. Now that you mention it, I wouldn't doubt that it is the alternator belt, because my battery has been dying on me or losing charge, and I did just replace the battery. I'll definitely give those things a shot when I get home.

Do you have a suggestion on how to make the coolant bleeder valve easier to turn? Mine is almost corroded shut so I'm worried about marring the head of it even more than it already is and never being able to get it off...

Thanks a lot!
 

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Buy a new one from IAP/Centerline/Vicks, I think they all have them, I keep a couple of spares because they have a tendancy to crack when you tighten them back down. Don't sweat it if it does break the head off, you may want to go ahead and order a new thermostat from Centerline, they are stocking the thermostat with the housing included, so you can replace the whole thing with new if it goes horribly wrong. It is a little pricey, but new will make you sleep better at night. I hope I am remembering right that the screw is mounted on the thermostat housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yupp, that's the screw. Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it.

I have something really embarrassing to admit. As I was looking all over and trying to find out what's wrong, I look down and notice that there's something missing on my water pump. Turns out my belt must have broken and that's why I was having all of these problems!!! I feel like such a moron for not noticing that before haha.

Anyway, thanks a lot,
Matt
 

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Don't sweat it, it happens to the best of us, good news it is an easy fix. Just a tip, don't get the belt too tight, just tight enough not to slip, too tight and it gives the bearing in the water pump a hard life, and the life of them is not that long to begin with.
 
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