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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks:
So I'm feeling a shudder when I take off and the rear end is shimmying some. I'm thinking "Bushings"
So I take it to my mechanic and we throw her up on the lift

Guibo's cracked
Driveshaft support bearing is busted
Trailing arm bushings shot
Trunnion bushings shot

I know that if I tackle this job the car will end up on jack stands in my driveway for a month and I'll be swearing non stop. So I'm definitely gonna let him do it.

I'm gonna eat the labor to drop the whole rear suspension and put it back, seems like the right time to get springs and shocks done too.

I'm pretty set on Koni reds, I'm completely baffled by springs. Maybe its that they're all basically good and there's no reason to really agonize over them. Anyone care to share their experience with lower/stiffer springs?

I've been thinking about installing a chassis stiffener for a while, maybe I'll do that too (**** this all starting to add up!)

So am I getting carried away? Anyone care to offer a reality check?

The sad part is that I'm actually glad, cause this justifies doing the suspension work that I've been wanting to do anyway. Am I sick or what! :D
 

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If your car is a steet only car don't go to stiff with the springs. IAP sport springs or shankle sport will make a big improvement, anything more and you will just make the spiders frame flex and shake on rough roads and tight turns. The koni red shocks will be more than enough. My track spider has yellow konis and had super sport, and now has ward and dean spring both are to much for daily comfort.
 

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I can vouch for the red Koni's (at least on my '76 GT Junior) I've set them at 2/3 stiff front and 1/3 stiff rear. I have lower stiffer prings to the same spec as the 'Harvey Bailey' ones 600lb front 180lb rear and 30mm lower. It's fine for normal road and occasional track use.

I assume you'll do the fronts at the same time as the rears....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, so I think KONI reds and ricambi sport springs.
Do I HAVE to install the adjustable upper control arms if I lower the car?
 

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No, just get a alignment after it get's dropped. Ajustable controls are nice though. My GTV handles so much better with it. But I also had a few bushing and tie rods replaced.
 

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I put Bilstein shocks on my 91 spider & really rate them, didn't feel the need to uprate the springs as I quite like to get the arse end out, so stuck with a new set of origenals. My Bilsteins are specially valved for the S4 spider by a UK Co called EB spares.

if your running on standard wheels I thing the ride height is fine, if not then maybe a 1/2 to 1" drop, but no more. The roads in the UK can be pretty bad, so that was another reason for not going to stiffer springs.
 

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Hey John:

You are probably aware of my setup with konis and performance springs. I really enjoy the setup and added stability of the car. On thing I will add worth noting is when you drop her down, make sure you have a sump guard installed as well. It has saved me multiple times going down what seems to be smooth roads.

Best Regards,
John M
 

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Hey I recommend a sump guard even if you keep her the stock height. You never know when a dip will sneak up on you. I flew through one in my Spider. The scraping of the sump guard sounded awful but everything was okay.

I actually bent that sump guard and punctured a hole in my sump. I punched it going around a corner only to find water in the crosswalk. I spun around and hit the curb. I replaced the sump and banged the dent out of the guard.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well if everything gets here on time, surgery's on Monday.
Went with KONI reds ($85 ea at linearossausa.com) and IAP sport springs.

Just snagged a brand new oil pan guard on ebay last night for $56.

Its a good thing the weather has sucked this past week. I've only been driving my baby very little. I can't wait to be done with this job and really wring her out!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Any opinions on KONI adjustments. Should I mess with the stiffness or put em on they way they come out of the box?
 

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I always check the adjustment before installation. I go full soft in the rear and up about a full turn in the front - your taste may vary. And don't forget that non-gas shocks (dampers) need to be bled before installation (bet this one's gonna raise a few eyebrows!).
 

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My 93 has Koni reds and IAP springs and a sump guard installed by the PO. This gives me 4" clear at the sump guard. I replaced both motor mounts so the car sits level.

I considered returning to stock springs but after much thought, I am staying with my set-up. It is stiff but when I push it, the car sticks very nice.

One question on the Koni's .... how does one adjust them once installed? That is, if I remove the rears to possibly soften them, how can I tell if the shock is at full soft, full hard, etc.?

Plus ... as they age, do they need a little "adjustment"?
 

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To bleed something, in automotive terms anyway, simply means to remove air from where it doesn't belong. The purpose of bleeding non-gas shocks is to remove the air from the oil reservoir. How did the air get there? Because the shocks were stored for who knows how long horizontally, not vertically.
To bleed the shock, hold the shock vertically, top end up, and extend it all the way. Then turn it upside down and push it together. You can feel and hear the air being forced out of the reservoir. Repeat 2 or 3 times and your done.
 

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Here's a link for adjusting koni's.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=713&perpage=30&pagenumber=1

Instructions:
Fully compress the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (anti-clockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjusting nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly (fig. 1).
NOTE: Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and this must be removed prior to adjusting. Don’t forget to re-install.

2. Keeping the shock absorber compressed make 1 full turn (360°) to the right (clockwise). The total range is about 5 half turns (fig. 2).
3. Extend the shock absorber vertically for at least 1 cm without turning in order to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.

WARNING: Adjust both left and right dampers identically. Failure to do so may lead to unstable handling and uneven tyre tread wear.

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A good setting it to turn them right 5 half turns (till fully screwed in), and then screw them back out 2 and half turns. My 2 cents.
 
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