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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.

While waiting on my timing belt and possible a set of cam dyes (the two that I see don't specifically mention 95 24v so am awaiting confirmation before I buy) I am wondering if I should go the extra step and fully remove the cams instead.
I am sure I see a small crack on the rear most pulley and don't think I can get a wrench in there without the cam dyes. Waiting on those will set me back another week at least and not fixing a crack in the pulley could lead to a huge problem.

So, if you wanted to pull of one of the pulleys, would you just wait for the locks and then go from there or remove the entire camshaft, which also allows for checking of the bearings as well?

Is it safe to loosen and pull off the cam (caps?)

What do you think?
 

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ya cant take the cams out until the pulley is off as I recall buts its been awhile. I don't think (could be wrong) that the very front where the seal mounts in can be removed -- its a solid piece as I recall.

Of course once you get the pulley off you can remove the cams , that will cause the valves to close (decrease from piston crown) so its a safe direction.

I would be very surprised that the pulley has a crack. These things are harder than h - e -- double hockey sticks.
Secure the pulley with a pulley holding tool and remove the pulley this week -- you can buy that tool at most auto parts stores or they have them for rent (at least here in California). Or you could make one easily with a piece of bar steel and a couple of bolts threaded thru it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re removing cams

ya cant take the cams out until the pulley is off as I recall buts its been awhile. I don't think (could be wrong) that the very front where the seal mounts in can be removed -- its a solid piece as I recall.

Of course once you get the pulley off you can remove the cams , that will cause the valves to close (decrease from piston crown) so its a safe direction.

I would be very surprised that the pulley has a crack. These things are harder than h - e -- double hockey sticks.
Secure the pulley with a pulley holding tool and remove the pulley this week -- you can buy that tool at most auto parts stores or they have them for rent (at least here in California). Or you could make one easily with a piece of bar steel and a couple of bolts threaded thru it.

I think you're right. Should've had a closer look before posing the question.
The problem is getting a pulley holding tool in a 1 inch area.
But I could just buy a better (19mm) wrench with an offset and just wrench it off after the cam locks arrive.

The pulley definitely has a crack as I see the spacing between teeth is a bit wider at that spot.

Just confirming something: Last evening, my cam lock (not cam dyes, a lock in the cam pulleys) slipped and the cam turned back.I am a bit nervous about having done damage to a valve. If the exhaust piston is set to TDC, and the cam slips, would this not force the valve down into the piston?
If so, hoping that a slip won't cause damage as the piston was not being forced up at the same time.

On another note: Local guy that does bearings did order some skf 63001 so I can press new ones into the S belt idlers. \they are smooth but a bit raspy. Still looking for a match for the T belt idle bearing as it is definitely raspy BUT most of that cleared up after I pried off the side grease seals (blue) and cleaned up underneath. Most of the resistance was dirt related. Still looking for a safe way to remove the inner shields so I can have the bearing matched, if one exists. Gotta be much more economical than buying new pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahhh. O.K. This is the tool to hold the cam pulley in place while trying to wrench off. Thought you were referring to a pulley specifically (like the 3 arm ones with center bolt for pulling pulleys, bearings, etc).
These I have seen. I expect i have to have the cam dyes in place to keep the cam from slipping back so first I will have to get those first.

Incidentally, have a few spare parts myself (head light units, rubber headlamp flaps) in case you ever want to trade.
 
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