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Discussion Starter #1
My new to me, 1992, 164 S, 104,000 miles.
First thing I'm addressing is the radio, it has power, comes on, but no sound, not from the radio or the CD. The po said it worked before he had the ECU for the HVAC replaced. I took the ****pit apart thinking I would find a loose wire, nothing. One thing I don't know, is the antenna supposed to go up when the radio is turned on? Mine doesn't. I'm attaching a picture od what looks like to black cables that look like ground wires that are screwed together but not to the car. The radio is an Alpine replacement.
 

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Yes, the antenna goes up when the radio is turned on. You might check the power wire at the antenna for being attached, or having 12v.

In my own experience, you can get nothing from the radio in some areas if the antenna isn't up at least part way. However, having said that, you should get sound out of the CD part.

The radio should be grounded to the car structure one way or another.
 

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welcome, might well jump in both feet first eh? More likely than not the radio has some sort of standard wiring to it. Give it a Google and start there. Or suck it up and have the 18 yr old at the stereo shop sort it. Might be worth the 50 bucks. You must have gotten a good one if this is the 1st order of business. If it's powering up, ground should be a non starter Welcome. ciao, chris
 

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Typical after market radio wire colors are:

Red - Switched 12v (radio on/off)
Yellow - Constant 12v (memory/antenna so that after you turn the radio switch off, the antenna still retracts)
Black - Ground
Blue - Antenna

Some radios may have another wire that powers the backlighting when the instrument lights are on in the car. This is so the car's dimmer switch will work on the radio as well.
 

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Grounds (or bad grounds) can cause all kinds of funny business. First thing I'd do is bolt those grounding wires to a known good ground. If that metal bracket shown in your picture is screwed into body sheet metal, that would probably be a good place. It is odd to have two wires bolted together with eyelet terminals, without it then being bolted to something. If I recall correctly, the body wiring harness didn't have a separate ground wire for the stereo, the stereo simply was bolted to the grounded chassis.

Next, Roadtrip's listing of aftermarket stereo wire colors is spot on for the way I've usually seen them, but it never hurts to check/research the wiring diagram on your aftermarket radio - a google search can usually yield this information.

On the car wiring harness side of things, Alfa used different wire colors. In your case, I'm not sure if the previous radio installed used an adapter plug to plug into the existing Alfa black and gray plugs, or if the plugs were removed and wiring simply spliced in?? In any event, the Alfa harness wire colors are as follows:
Light Blue/Red Stripe - Switched ignition power +12V
Red - +12V always on
Yellow/Red Stripe - Antenna Signal Power
Gray - Front Right Speaker +
Gray/Black stripe - Front Right Speaker -
Green - Front Left Speaker +
Green/Black Stripe - Front Left Speaker -
Gray/Yellow Stripe - Right Rear Speaker +
Yellow/Black Stripe - Right Rear Speaker -
Yellow/Green Stripe - Right Left Speaker +
Blue/Black Stripe - Left Rear Speaker -

If all the wiring business checks out, the speaker wiring harness might have been damaged. Instead of chasing these through the whole dash, it would probably be easiest to get a small cheap speaker and splice it into one speaker channel right at the back of the radio and see if any sound comes out. Make sure fuse in aftermarket radio (usually there is one in the back side of these things) is good too.

If all this is checked out, and still no sound, I'd probably think your stereo head unit is shot.

Good Luck.

Edit - just looked at your picture again - are those RCA cables coming out of the back of your stereo? If so, then you have an amp somewhere too. Find your amp and make sure it is powering up...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One down!

After taking everyone advice on the wires, I tracked down the Blue wire for the antenna and it was disconnected from the mail spade, fixed it and the antenna worked. Sadly still no sound, found an aftermarket amp under the passenger seat, took it to my sound shop and it was bad. Decided to have the shop put in a new Alpine that is iPod compatible and rewire to orignal and dump the amp. It was cheaper than a new amp.

Question, both bulkheads, driver right and passenger left are in bad shape from being removed multiple times, what is a good fix for those?

Also outside rearview mirrors don't resond, is the fuse that says "mirror defroster" the same one that controls the motor?

Thanks
 

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After taking everyone advice on the wires, I tracked down the Blue wire for the antenna and it was disconnected from the mail spade, fixed it and the antenna worked. Sadly still no sound, found an aftermarket amp under the passenger seat, took it to my sound shop and it was bad. Decided to have the shop put in a new Alpine that is iPod compatible and rewire to orignal and dump the amp. It was cheaper than a new amp.

Question, both bulkheads, driver right and passenger left are in bad shape from being removed multiple times, what is a good fix for those?

Also outside rearview mirrors don't resond, is the fuse that says "mirror defroster" the same one that controls the motor?

Thanks
Mirror fuse is 10A fuse F5 in small G2 aux fuse box located above to right side of main fuse box.

If fuse OK problem is usally the mirror switch in driver's door. Lift inner door handle to see phillips screw holding the door panel bezel/finisher fairing which houses the mirror switch, Remove screw and slide fairing forward to unlatch from plastic button in front end of door.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Two down!

Steve that was it, it didn't have a bad fuse, there was no fuse there! Put a new one in and it works perfect.
I just went back to the Owners Manual, 50 state version - 1992 Model year,
pages 106 - 108 that deal with fuses and there is no mention of that block.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Proper way to clean switches?

I have my center console out and want to clean all the window switches, I have the spray electrical connections cleaner; do I just spray the spades and receivers and / or spray inside the switches under the buttons?
 

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I have my center console out and want to clean all the window switches, I have the spray electrical connections cleaner; do I just spray the spades and receivers and / or spray inside the switches under the buttons?
To be effective you need to carefully pry off the rocker button (they have side nubs that engage in the switch body I believe) then remove the plastic crapshield (it is reusable sort of so remove carefully so you can stick it back down) and spray the innards of the switch. Let dry. It is the microswitch innards that corrode and prevent the relays from operating efficiency. The window switches are less troublesome than the power seat switches.
 

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My advice is that you should not replace that clear plastic film inside the switch. I believe it traps contaminants from the points contacting (perhaps minor sparking) inside the switch. I also believe that all those switches are pretty much identical inside, and can give you the same problem.

I cleaned the switches in the 91S at least a decade ago with WD-40 and left that film off, and they still work like new.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mission Creep!

Ok this all started because my '92 164S radio didn't work, so I had to take the driver and passenger side bulkheads, which of course were broken, see the before pictures.
Also in the glove box I found two felt washers and light lenses that I had no idea where they went until I looked up and saw the overhead console hanging down and missing two lenses. Got it out and repaired cleaned the switches, 4 down.
I then decided it was easier to take the seats out to get the bulkheads in.
 

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Looks like that car had been manhandled by someone who didn't have a clue as to what he was doing. Pity. Glad to see you are restoring it.

Yeah, they could have made the console side panels easier to remove. Right side not bad, but the left on is a tight fit with the seat installed. Can be done, though.
 

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My advice is that you should not replace that clear plastic film inside the switch. I believe it traps contaminants from the points contacting (perhaps minor sparking) inside the switch. I also believe that all those switches are pretty much identical inside, and can give you the same problem.

I cleaned the switches in the 91S at least a decade ago with WD-40 and left that film off, and they still work like new.
I'll try that next time. I use electrical contact cleaner (used by computer geeks) as I don't like the smell of WD40.
 
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