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Discussion Starter #1
Engine strip down going well. Since I could never tell where the leaks came from I have decided to try to change all the oil seals/ gaskets so I end up with an engine that doesn't leak...for a while. For other items - bores/rings/bearings I will do them if they need it after measurement/inspection.

The workshop manual (extract attached) says to remove the oil temperature regulator:
1. Remove the oil filter.
2. Remove the hoses.
3. Remove the nut holding the regulator body to the adjacent bracket. It's arrowed in the picture.
4. Slide the regulator off.

Now to be honest I haven't tried this yet as I ran out of time this weekend but is it correct that the regulator is really only retained by that small nut and not the large nut on the threaded shaft onto which the oil filter screws? Seems unlikely. I ask as if I do need to remove that large 32mm nut I have to go and but a socket which I would prefer to avoid.

I'm sure many on the forum will have removed this before.

Also, what's the technique to get out the hex head core plugs from this component - they seem too soft to remove. I tried and stopped when the hex bit in the wrench started to tear the ali. I could leave these in place perhaps but on the cylinder head they will need to come out as those certainly leaked.
 

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It is my understanding that the oil temperature regulator assembly with the hose nipples is held in place by the large nut 106.00.01.164.00. The small nut and bolt prevent the assembly from rotating when the oil filter is screwed on or off.
 

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I have one of the oil temp regulator assemblies that I intend to fit onto my FNM2300, which uses a spin-on filter the same as the 2600.

Perhaps some clarification of terms...

The oil cooler take-off assembly is the entire part shown above (106.00.01.019.00). The temperature regulator is that stack of stuff loaded under the retainin cap 106.00.01.170.00. Alfa may use other terms, but these seem to work.

Removing the cooler take-off assembly should be a simple matter of removing the hoses and filter, removing the big nut 164.00, and the little bolt and nut that keep it from spinning.

Removing the temperature regulator assembly seems a lot more difficult, and I have yet to successfully get mine out. The head of the retaining cap is not a typical hex head, so seems to want either an adjustable wrench of something else to get a grip on it. This requires mounting the cooler take off assembly in a vise or similar, and there's not really anywhere to do that without scratching things. I wouldn't want to put the necessary torque on that retaining cap while it's in the car, as that may just break things on the block or oil filter pad.

An impact might help, but again, there is no socket that I know of for this, and we would still have to secure the cooler takeoff assembly.

Who will be the first brave soul to chuck it up in soft jaws and bear down on a large wrench?
 

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Don, how about putting the regulator cap in the vice and turn the body by putting one or two rods into the hose nipples and use them for leverage (or clamp the body between two pieces of 2x4 to do the same trick)?

FWIW, below the testing instructions from the shop manual:
 

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Oil temp regulator removal

Steve.

Oil temp regulator removal means the whole thing as Tubut says, removal is as he has described. The reason you remove this bit other then for cleaning is to get at the large O ring underneath which is supplied with the overhaul kit , they can flatten with time so best to replace.

What Don is after openning is the oil temp bypass which opens when the oil reaches a certain temperature and allows oil to flow through the cooler. I wouldn't touch this if it wasn't leaking before unless you are determined to strip everything for cleaning.

Mine openned OK with a large adjustable wrench .

If you are determined to go in and remove everything there is another component under the oil temp regulator this is the oil non return valve - actually redundant with modern oil filters as they have their own.

I had to have a special spanner made to remove this which you can borrow when you visit.

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks,

I want to remove the Oil Temperature Regulator body - the large aluminium casting 106.00.01.019.00 - so I need to remove nut 106.00.01.164.00. I need to get it off as I want to have an engine build stand made that bolts to the engine mounting positions on the block and it's going to be easier to have one of those made to bolt onto the vertical 3-bolt arrangement on the block itself rather than bolting to the aluminium wedge that mates with the rubber engine mounting/cross-member. The regulator body stops me removing the wedge. The manual didn't refer to removing the large nut so I wanted to check it had to go before I buy the large socket that will be needed to get it off.

I don't like the idea of using an engine re-build stand that relies on fixing to the bolts protruding from the perimeter of the flywheel area - that cantilevered load on a thin aluminium casting which was not designed to support the engine, worries me, otherwise I would leave the regulator body where it is.
 

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Steve, if you mess up the casting I thought you should know that I might have seen a brand new one last week. I have a couple of the 106.00.01.015.00 thermostats (also for Montreal) if needed.
 

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Is the large rubber seal available separately or dose it only come in a kit?
I think mine is also leaking slightly, seems fine after driving only seems to leak on warm up idle.
 
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