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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1974 GTV converted to webers. With the euro airbox it is hard to find a good spot for the oil separator. Does anyone have advise on how to configure running the hoses from the dip stick and from the left side of the engine (that go to the the separator) to the intake manifold? Can I route them both to an empty nipple at the front of the intake manifold? I do not want to increase emissions if it can be avoided.
Russell
 

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A euro air box for 105 does not run a separator - just a pipe from the cam cover to the air cleaner.

I think later model alfetta's might allow for a separator between the cam cover and the air box (but can't quite picture it in my head...
 

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Russell,

The small tube "from" the dipstick to the oil seperator (upper nipple) is actually an oil return line *to* the sump. Oil vapors are trapped in the seperator and drip back down to the sump. Running this hose to your intake manifold will do nothing.

The lower nipple on the seperator is some kind of vapor or fume line back to the intake manifold. I think it's redundant with the big tube.

I just recently plumbed in a breather "puke tank" like the one above, to simplify the engine bay, and capped off the nipple on the dipstick. Now I've got to drain the water and sludge out of the tank periodically.

As far as emissions friendliness goes... your Webers will spit so much raw fuel out the intakes, any hope of not increasing emissions has gone out the window. Prius drivers and polar bears will shun you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, that is helpful. If I connect the hose from the valve cover to the euro air cleaner, how do I hook up the hoses to the separator? Do you know the european set up? Is the separator eliminated and the two small hoses plugged?
 

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the two small hoses, one to the dipstick and the other to the idle adjust or vacuum connection. if you dont use the seperator, cap them. the two large hoses are the cam cover, and the aircleaner. the aircleaner hose was used to pull clean air as needed to the seperator and vent fumes, hopefully not oil, to the aircleaner.
cliff
 

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See if this is of use.

Note: the attached is for an L-jet system, but the only real change would be where it says 'to plastic manifold' where you would feed that back into your airbox prior to the throttle so that it re-breathes it's own vapor. ('small vacuum' would likely be the vac tap on the front of your #1 cylinder intake runner under the T-stat if that's present)
 

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I have one of those "snot tanks" if anyone wants it. It was on my 74 GTV when I bought it. I removed it and installed a Euro airbox.
Ed Prytherch
 

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I just recently plumbed in a breather "puke tank" like the one above, to simplify the engine bay, and capped off the nipple on the dipstick. Now I've got to drain the water and sludge out of the tank periodically.

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I just empty my snot tank today for the first time after being on for a few hundred miles and 2 track events. Got about 3/4 to an inch of fluid in a quart bottle. Man that is some black nasty stuff, I don't think I would want that going back into the sump, best to get ride of it IMO.

I bet with normal driving you could go 2,000 to 2,500 miles before you need to even check the tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am thinking about a 'hybrid' approach. I am cleaning out the 35 years of gook from the oil separator. Then I will hook the valve cover hose to the top, the small 45 degree nozzle to the dip stick, the 90 degree nozzle to the intake manifold and the bottom of the separator to the top of the euro air box (or to a small filter). Other than the hoses going everywhere, does that sound reasonable to the experts out there?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There is one hose tha I cannot account forand it is not on any of the diagrams that I have looked at it goes from the R side of the engine block to the oil separator (thin hose). Should I re-atach this hose to the engine block or to the front of the intake manifold and block the other?
 

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The small one that goes to the right side of the engine should be on a vacuum source. (on intake somewhere, likely #1 intake runner under the T-stat if I remember right)

Now there was a version where the oil return line would go right down to the right side top of the oil sump instead of trekking all the way 'round the front of the engine bay to the dipstick tube.

So you might want to confirm with the attached above what line you're working with/wondering about.
 

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I've got an oil separator off a 164 that I'm thinking of putting on my 1973 Berlina. It only has 3 lines. One off the valve cover. One vapor return to the air box, and a liquid return to the sump.
Is there any reason this wouldn't work, adding life to the air filter (my valve cover vent goes directly to the air filter housing now)
 

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I can't see why it wouldn't work, but depending on how quickly it drains back to the sump, it could produce the exact results you get now with the hose going to the airbox. (if it drains quickly, then all that will get to the airbox is vapor. if it drains too slowly, it'll be just as ikky as it is right now)
 
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