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Discussion Starter #1
Dear all,

After years of hibernation, I hope to start up my 102 Spider the coming days. I am aware that the oil pump needs to be primed building oil pressure before firing it up. There are bits and pieces related to this topic on the forum. For instance, I am aware that cars with the oil adapter made by Jay Nuxoll need to be pre-filled with oil. However, what I miss is how to prime the oil pump of our 2 liter engines in situ, i.e. with the engine in the car.

There seems to be people that swear that priming needs to be done before turning over the engine and there is a camp that simply cranks the engine (with the plugs removed) and that do not see the big fuzz. I find lots of videos from people using the axis of a distributor (with the cogs removed) to spin the pump through the hole of the distributor with a power tool. However, our distributors lack a slot to turn around the oil pump (and hence I assume that the oil pump of the 2 liter engine is not 'powered' through the distributor. Is that correct?). I am rather safe than sorry and could really use some advice on how other people have primed their oil pumps when the engine was in the car.

Gr., Pieter
 

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I've always spun the engine with the plugs out and wait until the needle bounces up... on a new first run motor. I don't know about 102's but on the other engines I fill the cam trough with oil too,... and of course the oil filter.. It doesn't take many revolutions to build up a pressure reading.. You say "many years" .. That can be 2 or 20... which is it? Was the car put away running or is this a new out of hibernation motor. that never was run? It might matter to the audience..
 

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I have successfully attached a hose to the oil pressure gauge outlet hole, using a similar banjo fitting, then hang the upper end high, attach an oil container using a fitting through the lid, and allow the oil to drain via gravity. The key is not so much to pre-pressurize the whole system, it is to ensure the pump is wet enough to quickly pull fresh oil up from the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It was parked four years ago after problems with the cylinder head. It was nicely running before that. The cylinder head has been repaired, as well as the gasket changed between engine and oil pan. The pistons can move freely.
 

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Pieter,

If you haven't removed the oil pump or the pump pick-up, I suspect that you could just use Uncle's (Divots) method. If the pick-up tube has been removed or just to be safe, I would use Don's method. Either way, make sure that you have oil in the sump. I think the issue is that the flat cut gears in the Two-liters pump don't create suction to lift oil up the pick-up tube, so the pump must be primed.

Mark
 

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There is another way.Tom Zat taught me this trick.Simply remove the oil fill cap and insert an air nozzle hooked up to your shop air compressor into the filler neck.You will need to seal the area around the nozzle with a shop rag or a rubber grommet.pressurize the crankcase while cranking the engine.You will have oil pressure in about 20-30 seconds.
 
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