Not likely - unless you have some very unusual tools! Need to detach passenger side half shaft and then pull intermediate shaft out to get better access. But before that drain tranny fluid first.I have the blts removed except for the two bolts on the rear passenger side corner. Tey appear to be blocked by the CV joint. Is there away to get to them without removing the CV joint? Terry
You can loosen the CV joint(no need to remove it unless you feel the need), move it to the side, remove 3 bolts holding intermediate shaft in and slide shaft out of transmission (some fluid will leak), then you can move intermediate shaft support and mount off to access bolts . Intermediate shaft is not hard to remove. IMO remove as much as possible to make the job easier.Wonder if it is possible to loosen the axle mount attached to block and see if there would be enough movement to get to the two bolts. Terry
Sorry, I wasn't clear Steve. That was an example of a "junkyard terrorist tactic" - in that case, making the rear head much more easily removable. Obviously not a strategy which can be used on a car you intend to drive again!Doesn't like anything has been done to make job any easier than if whole engine was there.
You were clear but to get pan and front cover off that engine requires pretty much the same thing as doing it regular way.Sorry, I wasn't clear Steve. That was an example of a "junkyard terrorist tactic" - in that case, making the rear head much more easily removable. Obviously not a strategy which can be used on a car you intend to drive again!
This was the step I was concerned about as they typically remove the jacks before putting the cars out in the yard and the hoists, if available, are time consuming to wheel out.Jack up engine under pan then find a way with hoist or something under water pump pulley etc to hold engine up.
I do have a cordless Dewalt impact gun, but it's limited to ~300 lb/ft, and often that's not enough for something like this. What has worked better for me is stuffing a clipped ignition lead (in lieu of rope) down one of the cylinders and then use my breaker bar to free the nut.Now to get front pulley nut off you will need to lock something in crankshaft journal if you don't have hi torque battery powered impact gun with 41mm (1 5/8") socket.
Good point - certainly this would be step 1. Typically it's the automatic transmissions where they pierce the pans to drain them. Hopefully they wouldn't even try that with a cast AL pan!Make sure, before you start going through the effort, to inspect the oil pan for damage. Many times, during the junkyard "prep" process, a hole is punched through the pan to drain the oil, rather than just undoing a plug. Probability of a broken/cracked pan from forklift use is also high.
That does seem to be the most common method of pulling a FWD engine in the junkyard, as evidenced by the discarded sub-frames you often find laying around. As you suggest, it's probably only viable if you bring a friend to the dance.With a dissassembled engine bay like this, it may be easier to bring a helper, disconnect the struts, remove the steering shaft from the rack, remove the few bolts holding the subframe on, then drop (let gravity do its thing) the whole subframe and engine.
Understood that I also need the matching front cover and oil pick-up. My primary question is whether the shallow oil pan from a 24V engine is the same part as the shallow pan found on the later 12V engines.You need a shorter oil pump pick up tube and a later front cover around crank shaft for bolt pattern to match later pan.