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Discussion Starter #1
I have started to replace the oil pan, but run into difficulties.

Do someone know how it can be done without taking engine off?

I would appreciate if you can send me step by step directions of how to do it.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bob,
Thank you for your directions.

I have already started the job.
I have some questions:

1.Where is the third engine mount?
I have disconnected the dog bone and the lover mount that is on the front of the wheel well. I was looking for the third one, but couldn't find it.
I know my questions may seem stupid to you, but this is the first time I do this kind of advanced job with my car.
I have no mechanical experience either.

2. What is 2x4 etc that according to your directions should support the crank pulley?

3. What kind of tool should be used to take the pulley out? There are two bolts behind it that I can take off without taking the pulley out.

4. Where is the temp. sensor located?

5. will one jack stand suffice to lift the engine?

6. How much of ATF I should expect to come out?

Thank you and I am greatly appreciate your help.
 

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Bob,
Thank you for your directions.

I have already started the job.
I have some questions:

1.Where is the third engine mount?
I have disconnected the dog bone and the lover mount that is on the front of the wheel well. I was looking for the third one, but couldn't find it.
I know my questions may seem stupid to you, but this is the first time I do this kind of advanced job with my car.
I have no mechanical experience either.

2. What is 2x4 etc that according to your directions should support the crank pulley?

3. What kind of tool should be used to take the pulley out? There are two bolts behind it that I can take off without taking the pulley out.

4. Where is the temp. sensor located?

5. will one jack stand suffice to lift the engine?

6. How much of ATF I should expect to come out?

Thank you and I am greatly appreciate your help.

1. I will jump in here while we wait for Bob. Third motor mount is one in rear below oil filter area. It is bolted to black mount on engine that axle goes through.

3. You can get to pan bolts behind crank pulley without removing pulley. to remove you would need air compressor and air impact gun and 1 5/8" socket (aka 41mm) etc., to take nut off pulley and then a three-legged gear puller to get pulley off.


2. A 2x4 is piece of wood like used in a house wall as wall stud. Use a scrap piece of a 2"x4" piece about 4-5 inches long to rest on sub frame under crank pulley once you have engine raised to hold it up off engine mounts.


4. As for temp sensor, not sure the relationship to removing pan but it is on thermostat housing near where radiator hoses hook to engine.

5. You need/should have a hydraulic floor jack to lift engine if you don't have an engine hoist. You will need to loosen top radiator support to allow upper radiator hose clearance when you lift engine. watch alternator clearance on hose and upper radiator outlet.

6. If you pull intermediate axle out to gain access to some pan bolt/nuts, you will get a large oil bath if under tranny when it comes out. To get IM axle out you will need to disconnect outer axle from it and that may required brute strength unless you have air impact gun and allen wrench socket and adapter to fit bolts in CV joint.
 

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Let me add to Steve's reply!

1. The oil pan is very close to the subframe on the right (crank pulley) side. So you have to raise the engine up to get some clearance between the engine and subframe to get the oil pan out. There are a front and a back lower engine mounts that the engine sits on. You need to remove the hold down nuts on these two mounts to let the engine separate from the subframe. At the top, you also need to remove the dogbone mount to allow the engine to go up. There a third lower mount at the transmission side. You can leave this one alone.

2. Yes, a 2x4 (as in 2"x4"x8' stud) here refer to long and strong a wooden block that is position at the bottom of the crank pulley to support the weight of the engine since we need to remove the oil pan and need to take the jack off the bottom of the oil pan.

3. There is no need to remove the crank pulley. You just have to remove the two bolts that hold the oil pan on the two sides of the crank pulley.

4. Yes, I also don't know why you ask about temp sensor here. Temp sensor is near the thermostat above the water pump.

5. You really want to invest in some basic tools so you can do your work safely. A floor jack to jack up the car then use jack stands (I usually use concrete blocks and wood blocks - my preference since I feel they are more stable than jack stands) to support the car body at the rear part of the subframe. Since you have to work under the car, you have to raise the car high enough. Whatever you do, keep safety in mind before you go under the car. Always give the car a couple of pushes from side to side and front to back to check how stable the car is supported.

6. I don't quite remember how much ATF but I would guess a couple of quarts might come out if you pull the intermediat shaft without draining the transmission first. You might want to take this opportunity to change transmission fluid by draining fluid out at the drain plug. Collect and measure how much has come out, then put a similar amount back in when you finish and then check the level.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for your prompt answer, guys.

they are very helpful.

I am trying to find out how to take the bolts out of second lover engine mount, that is located near the drive shaft.
Any suggestions?
 

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Leave bolts in subframe just remove nut holding engine to rear mount stud same as you did for lower front one (or should have if you removed bolts there too).
 

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Steve calls that the axle and I called it the half-shaft in the write up. You need to remove the 6 allen bolts between the drive shaft and the intermediate shaft. Get a 8mm (from memory) allen wrench in a socket - an L shape allen wrench would not work that good and you might end up rounding the hex hole of the bolts. It needs some serious torque (50-60ft-lb?) to get them loose. I think I used a 17mm wrench on the other side. Hammer the 8mm allen socket all the way in hex hole of the bolt before you apply force.

After you removed the 6 bolts, move the drive shaft to the side. Then there are 3 10mm bolts on the engine mount support that you have to remove before you can pull the intermediate shaft towards the right front wheel.
 

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I had one engine recently that I was hoping to check the bearing clearances for (Plastigage), but gave up on it when it looked like I needed to pull the crank pulley to get the oil pan off. I guess I was wrong, and that I needed to invest in a little clean-up of the block prior to making such rash decisions. By the way, the engine is doing well in service and has great oil pressure. So I think the bearings are sound. They appeared to be before I pulled the engine from another car...I was just thinking about pre-emptively changing out bearings and then decided against it.

Thanks for the information above. As my contribution to this thread, I use a regular Allen wrench to pull the half-shaft bolts. I put the short end into the socket head, with the long end oriented to be blocked by the sub-frame (LHS) or the P.S. pump (RHS) when I rotate the hub clockwise with a prybar against some of the lug bolts. This has worked just great for me so far (five 164 car engine removals and three reinstalls to date).

Michael
 
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