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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Oil & oil filter

Hello everybody!!

Here comes Alfa Chan questions again!! :D

The PO has an Italian filter installed on the engine (it says OLIO R124), and I cannot find the daxx tool to unscrew it. (I think it's the one on the right in JoeCab's post about oil filters http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=416 )

I've tried all the oil filter sockets on the market and also the clamps, still couldn't get it free.
Should I just punch a screwdriver into it? How far does the male connector extend into the oil filter?

Do Spiders use the same oil filter as my 73 GTV? I've three different sizes of filter on my hand right now.
The one that's stuck to the engine, smallest - about same diameter as the O-ring.
FRAM x2 PH16 and Bosch, about 1 inch larger than the O-ring.
And then the "HUGE" FRAM PH7, about 2 inches larger than the O-ring!
I'm so confused :confused: I thought all 2000 Alfa engines uses the same oil filter. :confused:

I've got two gallons of good old Castrol GTX 20W50 waiting to be poured into my engine.
I've been using Castrol Syntec for all my cars and very satisfied with it. I remember reading somewhere in a classic car magazine that pouring Syntec into an old engine might actually hurt the engine seals because of the detegrents in the Syntec, is that true? Don't want to waste extra $20 per oil change and harming the engine. :)
 

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Oh the love of not being able to take off your oil filter. That's why I swicthed to Fram, because there small and easy to take off because of the grip ends. But I'm on my last Fram, and will never use them till they stop using the clue and cardboard inserts (race filters are another story I hear).

Chan put some muscle into it, till the point where your arm literally want's to snap. Or take a screw driver and tap it in. You don't need to hammer the screwdriver all the way in, Tap intill there's a hole and then you can push it in with your hand.

Synthetic oils are good for any car I think. The problem is, old gaskets.
But Castrol GTX does a very good job in my engine. I was using a high rev Valvoline oil and that stuff would burn up crazy. I think Castrol can take good abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All identical...

Just came across this webpage
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/3837/framfilt.html

It says all the different FRAM oil filters are identical except the overall dimension and capacity. And the racing model is HP-1, which I think I saw it today in Kragen. Should I give the HP-1 a try??

Sniady, I think I will give the wrench another try when I put the engine back together. But I will have my screwdriver and hammer standing by. :)

For the filter, I've got the "socket" (the big mushroom key for my new filters ready, there should be no problem taking them off the next time.

I even got the key and some BOSCH filters for my VW too, no more FRAM. :)

I'm looking at the FRAM x2 that I have right now, it says it has metal caps and metal inserts between the paper filter. But @ $12 ea, I would stay with BOSCH next time (which has metal caps too) for $7.
And I think changing the oil every often is the best thing to do, change them before they have a chance to break.
 

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There are tons of opinions on Synthetic vs Regular Dino oil and the debate still goes on.

All I can say is that I put Mobil1 Sythetic into my '78 911 and she started to leak like crazy. Oil all over the palce from my once dripless car. After I ran that for a while I changed back to Castrol GTX 20-50 and shes back to normal.

My 2 cents.
 

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Do you all realize how helpful this forum is? Working on this 84 Spyder project it is time to put all new lubricants in.
I used Red Line exclusively in my Formula Fords and Vees, but it is hard to justify in a seven quart capacity 100,000 mile engine. Especially when I am not seeking horsepower, just dependibility.
So I am thinking Castrol GTX 20-50 for the motor and some Redline gear oil for the gearbox/rear end. Purolator filter.
Anyone know where I can find a replacement ashtray for a spyder. I don't want to use it. Just need something clean to fill that hole in the center console.
Keeth Lawrence
84 Spyder
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Talking about gear oil. I am going to put some Redline into the gearbox and the differential also.
I was going to bring it to a "rice" shop and let them do it since I don't know how to recycle the gear oil. Can I just recycle them together with motor oil?

This forum is the next best thing happened to me after my GTV. :D

Simon, I better not putting Syntec in it then. My GTV is dripping about 3 big drops of oil everyday already.
 

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Yes, gear oil can be recylced with regular motor oil.
 

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Alfa_chan you said you have a vw do you know a good helpful vw shop in the pasadena area like a Sonto's but for vw. Sorry for this question alfa people but I have other types of cars too, and need help finding a good shop.
 

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I've used Castrol GTX 20W-50 for decades. Never had a problem with it so I see no need to change to a synthetic to try to fix something that ain't broke. The diff gets standard 90 weight gear oil. The trans, however, gets a miracle lube. It CURES 2nd gear crunch without the expense of a rebuild. Are ya ready? Drum roll please................straight 50 weight motor oil! Modern EP (Extreme Pressure) gear oils are too slippery for the syncros to work properly; not enough friction. Motor oil, which lacks an EP additive, allows the friction necessary for the syncros to work. And 50 weight oil is the same viscosity as 90 weight gear oil. Not for transaxle use though.
 

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Papajam! Jim! I can't believe you hav'nt told us this sooner. OOOOhhh I might have to try this.

Which straight 50 weight oil do you use? Would Valvoline 50sae work, or any 50straight weight oil work?

Leak out the info, all of it.


papajam said:
It CURES 2nd gear crunch without the expense of a rebuild. Are ya ready? Drum roll please................straight 50 weight motor oil! Modern EP (Extreme Pressure) gear oils are too slippery for the syncros to work properly; not enough friction. Motor oil, which lacks an EP additive, allows the friction necessary for the syncros to work. And 50 weight oil is the same viscosity as 90 weight gear oil. Not for transaxle use though.
 

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I would think that any brand will work. Just be sure that it's detergent, class SG or higher and non-synthetic.
 

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So I might finally be able to downshift into 2nd. Right now I can down shift into it at 22mph, I've played the matching revs game with it, and something it pop's in so smooth. But not worth playing and ending up with no 2nd.

So with a 50 weight oil, how does the gearbox perform, is shifting still "a knife through butter"?
 

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Sniady said:

So with a 50 weight oil, how does the gearbox perform, is shifting still "a knife through butter"?
:D

I like your "leak" out the info pun!!
 

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I have not had such good luck with 50 wt oil. Especially for winter use, a straight weight oil doesn't work well. But, like Papajam, I have found modern synthetics to be "too slippery" for the sychros.

The originally specified Shell Spirax oil works well, as does Kendall 80W-140 gear oil.

But, for those that want to use synthetic, I will be trying a new gear oil this weekend that has been recommended highly by the best in the land. I bet none of you will believe me when I tell you where to get it!
 

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I've used Redline 75W90NS in the gearbox and 75W90 in the diff for a couple of years with no problems. Wes I. just tells me to keep an eye on the levels as the synthetic oil is more prone to leak than conventional dino-based. I use dino juice in the engine 20W-50 Castrol GTX. I used to use OEM filters until they went to that little black Alfa/Fiat/Lancia universal filter, now I'm using Wix.

HTH,
 

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Alfa Chan

After being in your position with a number of different filters, I ended up with the Baldwin oil filter. I bought the largest Channel Locks® to take difficult filters off.

The Baldwin BT5 is what works. You can purchase them in Long Beach at A.P. Fischer near the port, right off the 710. You should be able to get a case price from them. It is truly a quality filter.

No filter can survive the huge Channel Locks®.

Good Luck, these two products work well together.

Velocess
 

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Centerline also sells the Baldwins.

Support your Alfa suppliers, or they will soon be gone...
 

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JoeCab said:
I have not had such good luck with 50 wt oil. Especially for winter use, a straight weight oil doesn't work well.

The originally specified Shell Spirax oil works well, as does Kendall 80W-140 gear oil.

Hey Joe
Are you way up there in Rockies where temperature (and extended trans warmup times) may have something to do with it?
Motor oil, without the EP additives, increases syncro friction resulting in slightly harder shifting, in my experience, only when the trans is cold. I believe that the straight 90 weight Shell Spirax (as recommended by Alfa from, as far as I can determine, '68 1750s on) works well because it has less EP additives than "standard" EP gear oils. Pre '68 Alfas get Shell Dentax 90 which doesn't have the EP stuff.
Although I've haven't tried Kendall 80W/140, it has too many viscosity index improvers for my liking. But maybe I need to rethink my postion on that.
 
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