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Discussion Starter #1
I had a nice oil leak, off the rear of the upper oil pan. ( the rear seal on the crankshaft is not leaking)Just finished three days removing the oil pan and replacing the gasket, and now it leaks twice as badly!!
I used the advice from an old thread I found, removed the round cylinder seals in the rear main bearing,and filled the holes with loctite 510.
I think this was my mistake. ( I believe the Loctite 510 cures with heat.... but i think the oil forced its way through before the engine heated up, which makes logical sense to me) ......So i still don't understand how this could possible work?)

I am open to any advice, and recommendations, on the best gasket sealer to use, I have been told to use permatex ultra black, ultra grey. Permatex "the right stuff. three bond . yamabond non harding 4, three bond 1207B semi hardening. Which is the best for this job?

I will do the job again, ( I hope the 510 has cured, and I will be able to pull it out) I have received some new cylinder seals. ( do i need to fill the hole down the axis?)

thanks again for any suggestions.


Larry
 

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I also read Loctite 510 could be used, either on its own (Vin did this in one post, on his S4 spider) to fill the holes where the "cigarette" seals go, or just to lubricate, and/or seal the cigarette seals when replacing them.

However I also think 510 needs to cure slowly, just in ambient temperature, so it needs to be left about 24 hours to cure correctly.

I would use the new cigarette seals that you ordered (maybe even lightly coated in the 510 that you still have left?, or just oil, as recommended)......getting them "in" from underneath will be the trick........there are some useful ideas on the bb, including Pat Braden's tip of putting them in the freezer first.

Don't cut off the ends that protrude, the final few sixteenths! Tightening the sump does that for you.

Good luck!
 

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Hello,

Yes, as SS4 says, I replaced my cigarette seals with Loctite510.

510 cures with the absence of air, not heat.

When I did mine, the engine was still in the car and so I was filling "up" the holes.

Is your engine still in the car or out?

As you know to change these seals, the upper oil pan has to come off. I also used Hondabond, purchased from my local Honda dealer to spread a thin layer on both sides of the upper oil pan seal.

I don't want to jinx myself, but I think my leak is back. Not 100% sure.

If I had to do it again, hopefully the engine would be out as it is so much easier.

If the engine was still in, I would use the original seals as they are still available with a coating of sealant on the seal prior to inserting.

Also, I would put a sealant on the back of the engine where the crack of the cigarette seals are. Hope you understand.

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update on my progress
I have removed all the bolts of the upper oil pan, only to discover a second mistake I had made. As of now, I have not been able to remove the upper oil pan from the block. Apparently, the gasket sealer I used was too good! After pounding and pulling and banging for three hours, the oil pan is still stuck fast!

I was able to pound a putty knife through the front and rear corners on the exhaust side...but the upper pan is still stuck. My next plan is to pull the engine, and pound the putty knife through other sections of the gasket, until, I can pry the pan off.

(Does any one have any other ideas??)

The sealer I used was Suzuki 1207B . I think it is a repackaged three bond product with the same name. I had used this on the lower pan with no gasket, and never had a drop of oil leak... now i see why.

Thanks Larry
 

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Hi Larry,

Sorry to hear about your problem.

Stupid question, I Know, but are you absolutely sure you have all the upper oil pan bolts out?

Wish you good luck!

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update:

Got the engine out. Needed a hammer a putty knife, and a propane torch to separate the upper oil pan. The Sasuki bond 1207B is a silicone RTV product, and was a real pain to get off-- (20 razorblades worth).

The loctite 510 had hardened. I would not recommended it by itself or even with the rubber seals. It cured into a hard crumbly stuff like rotten hard candy. In addition, it shrank when it cured. I don't think it would be useful except what it was made to do seal two metal flanges with tight tolerances.
 
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