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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I have a weird oil leak in the 91 164S. It is in the valley between the heads. I replaced the oil pressure sender for the guage because the new one I got from Vickauto geve me fluctuation issues from day one of installing it. I figured that the guage was also leaking seeing as it was not reading right. The new one works as it should (55 psi @ around 65 mph in 5th)

I used the aluminium seal that came with it. And yes its seated right.

The light sender is dry as a bone!

Is there someting that I should be looking for that I may be missing? I haven't put a whole lot of time into looking for the leak. But completly cleaned out the valley before I left work and after the 1/2 hour drive home I checked it and sure enough there is oil in that area again.

What gives??

Thanks, Paul:D

Oh... I have new front seals and rear main also.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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I had excellent luck finding/fixing oil leaks using that UV dye you add to the oil. Dump in a bottle, drive around for a while, and then use a UV light and yellow glasses. Worst leak in my Spider turned out to be at the mounting point for the power steering pump, which was something I would've never found in a million years without the dye.

Here's my experience: the 12V incandescent UV lights that come with the leak detection kits are usable but not the greatest. If you can find one, pick up an Inova X5 UV flashlight - it's LED based and wicked bright. Then just get some yellow UV blocking safety glasses and you're good to go.

Very useful for finding where the cat peed on the carpet, too. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:
 

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If oil gauge sender is definitely not leaking at sealing washer area then probably 60513359 item 14 orings on item 12 oil passage hollow dowel pins going from block to head are leaking and weeping through edge of head gasket. There are two dowel pins one for each head to feed cams and rocker arms. If original head gaskets they may not have additional molded rubber ribbed sealing rings in addition to orings in outer groove of dowel pins.

Some people will jump in here and say retorque head gaskets but that may not stop oil leak(s). Depends how bad leak is whether it is worth it to change head gaskets and orings on dowel pins.
 

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I had trouble getting my new oil sender to seal a few years back. I just kept tightening it up a little bit more but had to be VERY careful not to break it off in the block! :eek: It finally stopped leaking after a few tries. It was leaking into the valley and quite a lot I might add.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I sort of hope it is the head gasket so I can have the excuse to pull the heads off and replace the really worn out cams with some sweet Delta cams. I just hate to do all that work because I'm lazy and after working all day on crappy Volvos it's hard to get the energy up to work on the alfas. Heck, my Fetta is still in the garage here at home with the headers half put back on so I can get it to the exhaust shop. I guess I'll get that one going so I can drive the Fetta while the 164 is down.

I'm sure it will be an easy simple fix so the wife won't let me fix the 164 like I want to:D

I'll do a bit more snooping with a mirror in the vee and keep you guys updated on the findings.

Any more suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks, Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well.........

I re-cleaned the valley,ran the engine while I was watching for leaks:mad:

It's pouring from one of the "o" rings at #1 cylinder. Thanks Steve for your input. I guess that after 173,000 miles it's time for the heads to finally come off and get rebuilt! I have all the records from new and this will be the first time they have been done unless there are some missing.
Does anyone have any recommendations on what brand of gaskets/parts I should use for the replacement etc??

Thanks for the input.

I'm going on line to Delta Cams right now and figure out what the best cam I should have reground for it. Whoopie!! I(I guess )

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Talked to Delta and they are guessing around $135.00 to $150.00 per cam to weld and regrind. Sweeeet!!!

Paul
 

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What profiles does the weld/regrind restore? Does this include nitriding, case hardening, any surface conditioning at all? Do you want to do anything different?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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Camshaft Welding
Services

This process is done when the camshaft is damaged too extensively to remanufacture. We use a state of the art induction hardener. The purpose of this technology is to heat the "base material" to a high temperature. This creates the ideal conditions for perfect material bonding when adding material to the camshaft lobe or area in need of repair.



1. Camshaft Welding
2. Spray Welding




Custom camshaft grinding to factory or performance profiles. Camshaft repairs such as, lobe welding, bearing areas repaired, hard chrome build-up, thrust areas welded, dowel pins repaired, keyways repaired. Rocker arm assembly rebuilding, rocker arm resurfacing, follower resurfacing, and lifter regrinding on solid and obsolete hyd. applications.
They do a really good job. I'll probably get the copy of the AR Ricambi EG Rally cam that I had in my old GTV-6. A buddy used the same profile in his 3.0 milano and it worked great. We both had them regrind/weld a set of cams the same.

It's a little extreme for the street but I don't really mind. The Six idled a bit rough and ran a little bit rich (the HC at idle were around 3500 ppm) and got somewhere in neighborhood of 10 to 15 mpg:D

She ran like a bat out of hell:cool:

I'll do a bit of porting and polishing to the heads. I'm hoping the liners look good. If not I'll do a complete rebuild.

Paul
 
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