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Convenience, filter availability from any department stores (PH8A fits), possibility to select filters with more up to date filtering media...

Les Hurlock has been making a conversion kit for a long time, many posters use it and could comment further.
 

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Thank you Yves. Les' website explains some of the benefits. I assumed a spin-on filter might filter oil better than the old canister type. Les' prices are VERY reasonable. Thanks again for the info.
 

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The new cast spin-on oil filter housing is actually a Centerline designed and manufactured part. Due to some quirks with scheduling, I have not had time to announce and/or market the part yet, and some overseas vendors who are stocking it already have it on their web sites.

These are a great new product. The prototype has been on my Giulia Super for ~9 months and is working great. Oil changes are much easier/cleaner and I do believe the spin-on oil filters are superior to the canister-style filters.

Our first production run is nearly sold out, however we should have another batch ready in the next month, depending on the schedule at the foundry.
 

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One of the spin on filters advantages is you get a new over pressure and non return valve with ever filter. Not to mention the better filter material and larger area of good brands. There is a cheap Ford filter that should be a perfect fit.
Many conversions are possible, like remote filters combined with oil coolers etc.
The version offered here seems very handy for stock engines. So taken into account its easy fit, the price is quite OK.
 

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There is a wide range of filters on the market, and they are not equal. Many sites such as this one attempt to evaluate different brands. None I've seen so far actually measures filtration, which would be quite a project.

Synthetic media oil filters have been on the market for over 20 years; they use glass strands instead of cellulose (paper) and have a finer web to retain smaller particles without causing excessive back pressure. On an engine application they can typically offer 20 micron filtration instead of 35 microns.

My personal choice, which I've been using on my Alfas for over 15 years, is the Baldwin B2HPG (equivalent to Fram PH8A, same specs as the big PH7). You may have to hunt it from places that supply truck parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
My personal choice, which I've been using on my Alfas for over 15 years, is the Baldwin B2HPG (equivalent to Fram PH8A, same specs as the big PH7). You may have to hunt it from places that supply truck parts.
Yves - In one of the Centerline photos above from JoeCab is a Baldwin B233 (GTV 2000 filter). Maybe just a different size than the B2HPG?

JoeCab - Do you have a list of recommended filters that work with your product?

As an aside... are these orange Baldwin brand filters the ones usually seen on V12 Ferraris? I'd think those F guys would want to protect their $35K+++:eek: engines with the best filters available.
 

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Baldwin B233 is an equivalent to the shorter Fram PH43; it is only available with traditional cellulose filtration (the HPG suffix stands for "high perofrmance glass"). Still, Baldwin makes good filters and Centerline sources many of its filters from them.

Many years ago Ferrari engines were delivered with Fram filters - many Alfas also had Fram filtration. Fram is no longer what it used to be, such as stated in the site I quoted earlier. Ferrari mechanics now use other brands, such as this 250 California engine I picked at random... wish they did the same for the air intake.
 

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Hi!
There are a lot of filters that fit the same thread (3/4-16 UNF), have the gasket at the right radius and do not physically block the oil flow. What you can see is the size, as they come in any combination of length and diameter you can think of. The largest units are for diesel engines, as they have to hold back a lot of dirt. What you don’t see at once are the valves inside. Most common is the over pressure valve, found on any filter I know. It opens if the filter is blocked and lets the (dirty) oil use a bypass. Better dirty oil than none...
Next is a non return valve, it prevents the oil pump from falling dry by oil returning through it. If it is defective (surprisingly often on new filters), the oil pressure needs some time to get high, after the engine is started. The oil light stays on for a while and the engine may sound like it dropped a bearing. This can happen, if such a filter is not replaced immediately.
Last and rare, not needed with the Alfa, but found on some engines having the oil filter on top (Ferrari 348 for example), is a anti siphon valve, it holds back the oil that otherwise would run through the bearings in the sump. These valves open at very low pressure.

I trust any major, well known filter producing company to use adequate filter material. Keeping oil clean is absolutely no problem and there are no better or worse filters, if you stick to well known brands (not producing in China). l

But, I have, for some reasons, often used filters not build for a specific engine as a replacement. For some older engines producers don’t do specific filters any more and they don’t bother about writing some other type into the list. I don’t use any recommended filter blindly and take extra care on older cars. If my engine produces 200 HP and all other engines for this filter are from 30-50 HP, something may not be as good as on it once was.
Some brands give all information for there filters. So one may pick a better filter for his application.
For example, the Lancia Delta Integrale with a 16V turbo engine has some problems with low oil pressure with the now “correct” filter, even supplied by Alfa/Fiat/Lancia. It is the same as used in the 900cc engines. If, instead, the filter for a Ford diesel engine is fitted, the filters surface is more than doubled and the oil pressure is much higher. Now the Ford part is used by the majority of these cars for about 6 years with no negative side effects, but a little more oil to change.
There are no real secrets about oil filters. If they fit and all parameters match, there is no reason to stick to the stock unit. But one has to watch out that one really fits. For example the flow can be blocked by treads intruding into the filter to far or base plates with wrong inner radius. So be sure what you do, as always, and carefully compare before fitting.

*This manufacturer has a very good online catalogue with many options to find a filter that fits, exact measures and all valves. They used to produce filters for Ferrari (like Purolator) too:

Clean Filters - Catalog



Happy new year!

Chris
 

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Centerline's web page shows the adapter on BACKORDER with no projected availability. I have heard that the original supplier may not have been up to the standards that Centerline required. I understand that Wes Hurlock (sic) has essentially retired, had a fire in his house that caused a lot of grief, and has sold off his tools. He is no longer available as a source. I have a 69 GTV and have been thinking for several years about replacing the insert oil filter with the spin-on adapter. Any other sources???? Thanks!
 

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While we are on the topic, what are the thoughts on remote filters? As for filters I've been using k&n HP2004 filters in my spiders, has a hex nut welded to the top for easy tightening and removal.
 

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I use a Baldwin P 177 in my canister filters on a semi-stock 1750s. If I've had an oil filter problrm, I haven't noticed it. Thay actually seem to have more filter area--but I haven't meaured. If you have a spillage problem, use a gallon baggie when you change oil--
 
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