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1966-2013
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Likely with fabricated brackets on the side of the radiator tunnel (big hunks of sheet steel between radiator and front air dam) in a vertical or horizontal orientation with the airflow going through the same way as the radiator.
 

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It probably isn't, but when you live in the DC area and sit in traffic for hours on end, it can't hurt to keep things cool.

A while back a friend of mine who has a Porsche 914 built an aluminum box with a fan and an oil cooler in it. Quite simple, but managed to keep his oil cooled engine cool even on the hottest summer days. Granted, its an oil cooled engine, but its still important for our cars as well.

I was debating a similar strategy...

Ed
 

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FWIW, most street driven 105/115 Alfas have trouble getting enough heat into the oil during regular driving. Unless you drive your car flat out over extended distances, race it, or the engine makes much more horsepower than stock, you will not need an oil cooler if everything is running as it should, regardless of ambient temperature.

In a Spider in standing traffic, if anything, you might be more concerned about H2O temp, something that can be addressed by either a Hi-efficiency radiator core or an auxiliary electric fan if necessary (or if your Spider already has an electric fan, either change the thermostat for that - they do go off their intended setting - or put an override switch in).

If you do decide on an oil cooler on a regularly street driven car, consider installing a oil thermostat. Also, any oil cooler should be installed that there is no drainback when the engine is shut off, which means the fittings need to be on top. This equates to horizontal installation only unless you have a specially made cooler for vertical install.

Also many suggest that the cooler run a minimum of AN10 fittings & hose. Any cooler should ideally be installed w/rubber mountings or in rubber channel just like your stock radiator. More likely than not, you will end up putting the oil cooler in front of the radiator which is ok but not really ideal for efficiency of the water radiator.
 

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What is the best way to secure the oil cooler for an 87 Spider?
Wher is the best place to mount the cooler?
pjn
The oil cooler is supposed to fit in front of the radiator of your Spider. It is mounted with bolts, and was a Spider factory option in 1987. You'll have to pardon the quality of the pictures, but I don't have access to a scanner at this time, so these are pics from a camera. The oil cooler pictured has 11 rows.

From the ALFA ROMEO ACCESSORIES CATALOG:
Oil Cooler Kit - Recommended for performance driving and trailer towing. Complete kit includes steel braided lines, cooling oil and filter adapter.
Milano GTV-6 8634
Spider 8633​

Spider oil cooler 577 (compresed).jpg

Spider oil cooler 578 (compressed).jpg

Best regards,
 

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you can get an oil cooler of a audi 5000/100 from 1988 to 1991. these will fit, or an mazda rx7 in the early years under the wayer rad. there is a cooler, and it has a built in temp. thruo. and as a extra, it is alum.
 

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Here's a picture of one (it's not the OEM from the factory, but certainly similar - larger than the IAP for sure), installed in the correct factory position of a Spider with A/C.

Spider oil cooler 586 (compressed).jpg

Best regards,
 

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I put mine on with the Big cable ties like the phone company uses. It's been on there for 5-6 years and still hangin in there. I did the remote oil filter and thermostat too. It sure is alot easier to change oil filters. I put my oil cooler on when I upgraded pistons, valves, cams, with electric fan.. I was not real comfortable at the track until I added the oil cooler. So far So far. Otherwise on my other spiders I don't think I need one.
It could kink the hoses somehow and cause real problems with circulation and also spring a leak. It does take Xtra oil to fill the hoses and cooler. When you change oil, how much dirty remains in the cooler each time, unless you open it up and drain it. Then oil pressure *time to circulate after change. Especially with the thermostat closed.
I do beleive that it keeps the engine cooler at the track though.
 

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My 2 cents. Buy an oil temp gauge before you put in an oil cooler. It is highly unlikely that you will ever run the oil too hot unless you run a lot of flat out track laps on a hot day. It takes FOREVER to get oil temp in my Giulietta (with calibrated gauge), even when I'm driving hard. And it has a tin sump!

Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the great information. My '87 was overheating so I put in a new water pump and had the radiator redone. My water temp. is now a line above 175 degrees. I was thinking that an oil cooler would help bring the temperature down a little more. I need all the cooling I can get for the car since I live in Phoenix, AZ. and need to run the airconditioning. Heck, even without the air it would still want to overheat. Any more ideas? Sounds like an oil cooler is not the way to go from most of the posts.

pjn
 

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My 2 cents. Buy an oil temp gauge before you put in an oil cooler. It is highly unlikely that you will ever run the oil too hot unless you run a lot of flat out track laps on a hot day. It takes FOREVER to get oil temp in my Giulietta (with calibrated gauge), even when I'm driving hard. And it has a tin sump!

Erik
Those are very true words. My '74 has an oil temp gauge, and even on the hottest southern summer days I don't see the temp above 215, without an oil cooler. In the winter (well, it rarely gets below 40 here) it can take 30+ minutes to see 200. No track time, but lots of high revs and hard driving. That big oil pan really does its job, as does the Mobil1.
 

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:) When you pull the dipstick after a drive:

1) If it's black and smells like oil and gas, it never got hot enough.
2) If it's gold and clear, it was just right.
3) If it's black and smells like cooked tar and wretch, it overcooked.

'Tis odd how many people get concerned about 'hot' oil, when they never actually get it *fully warmed up to begin with.

*that magical point when the contaminants vaporize making the oil clear again.

1/2 hour or so running in the 4500+ rpm range while climbing some hills, all while mabe seeing short hop sustained speeds in the triple digits and generally motivating with the loud pedal full on will get it up to that #2 heat range, putting along in traffic won't, no matter how hard you try.......
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Thanks for the great information. My '87 was overheating so I put in a new water pump and had the radiator redone. My water temp. is now a line above 175 degrees. I was thinking that an oil cooler would help bring the temperature down a little more.
A line above 175 is about 195 water temperature. That's pretty much where you want to be on an EFI Spider.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
coolant temp quest

Looks like an oil cooler is not the way to go. I have had the radiator redone and replaced the water pump. The temp. is now a line above 175 degrees. I was thinking that an oil cooler would bring down the coolant temp a little more. Because the coolant temp. of 175 degrees is in the middle of the gauge, so, I am assuming that "175" is the normal operating temp. I live in the Phoenix area and need all the cooling I can get. Is the operating temp I have now as good as it's going to get?

pjn
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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The thermostat spec is that it starts to open 178F-185F, fully open at 203F. Like I said, a line above 175 on the gauge is ~195F which is pretty much where the engine is supposed to operate. I'm not sure why you think it should run cooler than that, but it's not going to help anything. With the cooling system in good condition (and it sounds like yours now is with the radiator redo) these cars don't overheat.

And before you ask: no, removing the thermostat or putting a lower temperature thermostat in there are not good ideas.
 

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last summer, my water got to 235-250* i was in th emountians, above 5000 feet and in 3/4 gear at 4500-5500 rpm. she got hot. air temp 80-85* that why i was looking at a oil cooler.
 
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