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Discussion Starter #1
1986 Alfa Quad
RML Distributor NO additional box.

Battery 12.53 at battery posts
11.42 when trying to start

fuel pump fuse next to ECU good
all fuses in dash tested and good (replaced even if it looked funny but tested fine)

Coil brand new BOSCE super blue tested it is with in specs.

Readings at coil with ignition in the start position..
+ side to ground 12+ volts
- side to ground 12+ volts
no spark at plugs...no start....
no joy

So before someone tells me to look at the L-JET diagnostics.... I have and no air leaks and checked all the ground wires...(not meant to be rude to the brain trust)
So to the collective brain trust are there
any additional tests before i pull the dizzy and call Rick and ask him to take a look.
V/R
Chris
 

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Try testing the upper and lower flywheel sensors, unless you've already done that.
 

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There's a flow chart on pages 00-60 through 00-62 of my shop manual (dated May 1985) that I've used for testing the various possible problems through the ignition ECU connector where the symptom is "no primary voltage or no ignition spark".
 

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This might be a long shot but on my gold the coil just gave up on me.
I needed to do a quick run to the market about 2 blocks away. it was running a bit bad kinda like a tad flooded like I just need to rev it some to clear it out. But the trip was so short I never had the chance. After I came out of the market it would not start. started testing things and no spark at all. Got a spare coil from home swapped it in and it started right up.
 

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1966-2013
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13,741 Posts
What's the story on the RML dizzy?

No weights, no frills, no electronics drop in stock type replacement for the original, or free standing ignition system that is meant to do away with the motronic system present in the car?

If the latter, flywheel sensors won't make a bit of difference as they aren't being utilized anyway. Connections at the coil may have some relevance though as at least one wire gets left undone when swapping as it deals with the ICU, which isn't in use anymore.

In turn, there "may" be some fidgeting neccisary to get the drive relay to respond properly and activate the fuel pumps.
 

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What's the story on the RML dizzy?

No weights, no frills, no electronics drop in stock type replacement for the original, or free standing ignition system that is meant to do away with the motronic system present in the car?
I assumed the former, since the OP said that he had aftermarket distributor only, with no additional box. If that was incorrect, my bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
rich you got it right it is just the dizzy...i am thinking that the electronics in the dizzy is fried ...
chris
 

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Hmmmm. Did you check the resistance at the ignition ECU connector for the coil? Procedure below (make sure to connect ohm meter to connector not to the ECU):

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks rich, I dont think it is the ECU....if it were I dont think that it would 1, allow fuel or 2, the 12 volts to the coil....could be wrong but i think that perhaps the RLM dizzy electronics are fried ...I was planning to call rick at RLM to bounce it off of him.

thanks for the suggestion/help...
V/R
chris
 

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Thanks rich, I dont think it is the ECU....if it were I dont think that it would 1, allow fuel or 2, the 12 volts to the coil....could be wrong but i think that perhaps the RLM dizzy electronics are fried ...I was planning to call rick at RLM to bounce it off of him.
I wasn't thinking it was the ECU, but I was thinking you might get the voltages you reported at the coil even where the resistance values were incorrect. In that case, the procedure would indicate a bad coil (box on right).

In any event, hopefully Rick will be able to help you out.
 

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If you have 12 volts on both coil terminals it means you have no current flowing through the coil. Either the circuit to the distributor is open or the distributor electronics are toast.
 

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1966-2013
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See that's the twist:
If the dizzy is a straight up replacement there are no electronics in there, just a rotor and a dust cap.
Not even flyweights.

If its got gizmonics inside, then the ICU is to be taken out of the loop.

As the link above says its a version to replace the motronic rig, then its the latter and the ICU and sensors are moot and should not be connected to the system at the coil anymore.
(crank sensors can remain, but are no longer a neccisary part of the ignition process)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Darren,
Have to agree with you ...will see what RML has to say...and do you mind if i steal the term "gizmonics" gotta love it ...as a former marine engineer we used the term "Knoboligists" quite a bit,when people would walk through the control room...and just could not help themselves...just gotttttta touch that knob..:)
v/r
Chris
 

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1966-2013
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I claim no copywrite so yeah, feel free :)

*I always thought a knobologist was that chick who.... well, nevermind....

IIRC, you'll find that one wire needs to be left disconnected from the coil to eliminate the ICU.
I wanna say its the fat white one, but may be the yellow shielded one or something like that on your MY.
Note that the regular caliber white wire is the tach signal.
(unless monopod has something else going on with that too. I really should try to keep more up on these things)
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP
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...one wire needs to be left disconnected from the coil to eliminate the ICU. I wanna say its the fat white one,...
Ding. Ding. Ding. We have a winnah! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Darren, thick white wire is not connected for the install on the RML unit.....by the by i prefer your definition..:)

and JIM as usual the brass ring goes straight to you :)
V/R chris
 
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