I see where you are comming from alfaloco, but the answer is no, no crash damage beyond a repair that I uncovered (during paint prep) on the RH (passenger side US) ding on the rear quarter pannel that is pretty minor (bit of bondo between rear wheel and bumper).
Axle to Axle measurements on both sides yeild the same results - but no, it has not been on a frame rack during my ownership. I have also not done an extensive X type inventory of where the wheels lie in relation to each other either. It is unlikely (IMHO) that the car can handle/track so well (and I have watched it on the road) if there are major issues with the frame geometry.
I think this is more of a wear/alignment issue so far. If a relatively minor "tweak" on toe in has improved the issue, then I think that is the place to direct my efforts.
For those interested here is a distilled version of what I found on alignment and the 'string' method of checking (the only thing fuzzy in this is where the 3mm toe in is checked at, any help on that is greatly appreciated) :
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For LHD cars;
Left tierod length = 264-280mm (adjust 1st)
Right tierod length = left tierod length MINUS 5mm (adjust 2nd)
For RHD cars;
Right tierod length = 259-275mm (adjust 1st)
Left tierod length = right tierod length PLUS 5mm (adjust 2nd)
Center trackrod = 530-550mm (adjust 3rd)
Toe-in = 3mm total (1.5mm per wheel)
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The 'special' tools required for a string toe alignment are about 12 feet (4 meters) of string or twine and since the front track of 105/115 cars is 2 inches (50mm) wider than the rear, you'll also need a one inch (25mm) spacer (a piece of wood for example).
Before starting, ensure there is no free play in the steering system. Adjust, repair or replace as necessary. The car needs to be on level ground and tires inflated to specs.
1) Center and lock the steering wheel
2) Refering to figure 1, have a helper hold the spacer, at axle height, against the rear portion of the left rear tire and the string against the spacer (location A) while you at the front, pull the string tight and move it in the direction of the arrow toward the left front tire also at axle height. If the string touches the rear portion of the front tire first, as in fig. 2, the wheel is toed in so the left tierod needs to be shortened. If, however, the string touches the front of the tire first, fig. 3, the wheel is toed out requiring the tierod be lengthened.
3) Adjust the length of the left tierod so that the string touches the front and rear portions of the front tire at the same time (fig. 4). The toe of the left wheel is now zero.
4) Measure the length of the left tierod from stud center to stud center. If the length isn't between 264-280mm, somethings bent.
5) subtract 5mm from the dimension obtained in step 4.
6) adjust the length of the right tierod to the dimension obtained in step 5.
7) Move the spacer and string to the right side of the car and using the same technique as on the left, see what the toe of the right front wheel is.
8) If the right front wheel is toed in, shorten the long center track rod. DO NOT adjust the right tierod. If the wheel is toed out, lengthen the track rod.
9) After adjusting the right wheel toe, measure the length of the center track rod. If the length isn't 530-550mm, somethings bent.
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Cheers!
Dave G.