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HI all, I`m new to this site and to these cars, the US spec L Jetronic Spider.
I have one here in UK which was going well 6 months ago but I have not used it over the winter and now it refuses to start.
It seems that it has No spark and no feed to the Fuel pumps., I have just replaced the Fuel pump relay under the seat and the Intank fuel pump as that was not working. The outside under car works if I attach a battery.
So, Any Wizzkids out there with any ideas please ?? :( Toni D
 

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Your car is like an Italian mistress - and now it is pouting because you ignored it for 6 months.

Is the battery fully charged? 12.6V is fully charged, 12.3V is half charged. The computers require about 10.5V to power up and send the make spark/squirt fuel signals. It can sound like it is cranking with good vigor but if the available voltage is below that threshold it won't start. See the link in my signature for a page of L-jet diagnosis.

Now then, regarding photos. We like photos so insist you post some. In order to help solve your no-start condition we need to know all the car's details - like what color is it, what kind of wheels does it have, are the seats ripped, etc. A few photos will be worth the proverbial thousand words...
 

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:( I`m not sure that the colour will have much effect on its starting :ROFLMAO:, however I do agree with its neglect analagy, it can cost as much as a woman as well but usually so much trouble :p So New Battery, I could feed it with a seperate battery supply just to make sure that the ignition system is getting enough, so possibley , I`ll check somehow. We did have it running, well ticking over , when we put on a seperate HT generator and some Easy start fuel, it ran but did not want to rev, up. :unsure:
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I`m not sure that the colour will have much effect on its starting...
Ha! Shows how little you know about diagnosing cars over the interwebs. (OK, it is actually a delaying tactic while we wait for someone who knows what they're doing to come along.)

If possible, I'd add some fresh gas. In my experience today's gas does not store well. Especially the ethanol laced stuff (do you have that over there where you spell color with too many letters?). And charge up the battery or connect some jumper cables. Even a brand new battery can be a little low on voltage until it gets a good re-charge. Make sure all the battery connections are clean & tight and also the ground cable's connection to the body - it is behind the battery somewhat out of sight/out of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:) Delaying tactics, now that`s two of you, The car and the Admiistrator ;), done all those things, on another point, whilst we are waiting how do I get rid of a Big Rat running around in my workshop :censored::censored::censored::censored:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Back to a starting problem, I`m wondering what can go wrong with the system when it doess not work after it started last time but has been no where ?? must be something simple like me :( :)
 

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Well I was wondering what it was living on :(, Just for your interest, I was talking to a friend,
BMW management, about plugging in the computor to solve all problems, ( modern cars ) and I said that it would not tell you if a rat has been chewing the plastic wiring would it. Apparently BMW have ralized that was a problem and they use or and developed a plastic wiring that the rats don`t like :)
 

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take out the relay again (the new one you just put in) and jump the socket between pin #30 and pin #87
that should make "both" pumps run constant...does it?
if they run, will it now start?
yes? then your new relay is bad

if no, and the pumps still do not run, it is a wiring problem.
In which case, I'd first check the 8A fuse back there and especially the fuse holder (if still the bullet type, chuck it out and replace with a blade fuse)

what year is your spider?
 

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So Chaps, ( well I am British ;) ) done lots, New intank fuel pump ( definately did not work ) New fuel regulator ( unsure but I could suck air and fuel out of the small vacuum pipe on the top so I think it must be broken inside unless I don`t understand how it works ) on the end of the fuel rail, Swapped the fuel pump relay for the old one, and replaced the nearby fuse, ?? no idea why that should blow. Removed the Imobilizer completely, given it lots of Eazy start and lots of swearing and hours and it eventually started, and has now done 10 miles. Seems to be going well except that is isn`t , It soots up a new set of plugs in that time so it is vastly over fueling ??????? Any ideas on this one please :unsure:
 

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Another quick question, it has an Aftermarket simple Aluminium fuel cap on the tank and it does not have a Breather hole and so ends up with a Vacuum in the tank. I know modern cars do this but is this correct, to my mind it would eventually starve teh engine of fuel ???
 

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1) In reply #10 Dom is referring to the in-line fuse for the fuel pumps - located next to the FI computer. Even after the main fuse box was changed to blade type fuses the in-line fuel pump fuse may have remained the old bullet style. Those fuses are known to somehow appear intact yet fail to allow electrons to flow. It is easily replaced with a blade type fuse holder. The original fuse was rated 8 amps. The closest blade type is 7.5 amps which should be sufficient.
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B) The original fuel cap is also non-vented. Forwards of the trunk - aka boot - pull open the carpeted 'door' to reveal the vapor recovery tank and its associated air inlet & one-way valves. This system provides the necessary venting for the fuel tank. The one-way valve and air intake valve can become clogged which affects tank venting. They are easily cleaned with some squirts of carb cleaning spray. Be sure to re-install the one-way valve aimed in the correct direction.
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New fuel regulator ( unsure but I could suck air and fuel out of the small vacuum pipe on the top so I think it must be broken inside unless I don`t understand how it works )
correct, it was bust if you can suck through the vacuum hose.

Swapped the fuel pump relay for the old one, and replaced the nearby fuse, ?? no idea why that should blow.
easy...the fuse holder is problematic if still the round one. Just change it (or has it been changed to blade already?)
Has someone put the wrong fuse in there to disguise a problem? should be an 8A

and has now done 10 miles. Seems to be going well except that is isn`t , It soots up a new set of plugs in that time so it is vastly over fueling ??????? Any ideas on this one please :unsure:
that won't be good for the cat (is the cat still on yours, or has it been removed?)
what plugs? NGK B7ES (if so ok)...you could go one up B6ES but basically better to find the problem.
what is the compression like? does the car smoke, when throttle hard on or suddenly off?

maybe it just needs an italian tune up to get rid of carbon...(that's the fun part)

as Eric says alu screw on gas cap is correct. Check the vacuum stuff behind the trunk flap.
 

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As for the possible overfueling, measure the fuel pressure. The correct fuel pump puts out just a little over the expected pressure. There are fuel pumps that are physically the same externally but deliver way too much pressure (~ 100 psi). The Fuel Pressure Regulator cannot regulate the pressure if that wrong pump is installed.

Also make sure the return fuel line is clear. If blocked the fuel pressure can not be properly regulated.

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Discussion Starter #18
Well boys, thanks for your help, I did have a faulty in tank fuel pump so replaced but I think the main thing was the
Immobilizer was a bit naughty any simply immobilizing !! So as you do with employees that you don`t get on with,
( Trump does it ), you make his job redundant and show him the door ! :unsure: :ROFLMAO: Car runs fine now.
 

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Immobilizer? Is that the same as Inertia Shut Off Switch? I thought Alfa did away with that ~ 1985ish. Alfa didn't change the wire harness though - they just connected the two wires - that used to go to the switch - together. And buried the connection inside the harness wrap.
 

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Where is this wire, my car now if I go to start it will run for 1 second and then die. I have jumped the power to the fuel pump to run constant and it won't stay running. After it shuts off and I try to restart it doesn't even try to fire like it lost spark. I wonder if it can be the inertia switch wiring. BTW it's an 87 Alfa.
 
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