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Discussion Starter #1
I went to start my engine but all I got was a light click at the starter. No crank. All dash lights come on, radio works, blower motor, everything. But when I tried to start it I got nothing. I have the alarm remote so I tried to arm and disarm it since that had worked before but not today. I remember reading about a purple wire that runs underneath the center console, which can be cut in order to immobilize the immobilizer. My questions are, where exactly is this purple wire, and do I have to have the car already running or will I leave the car permanently stranded if the immobilizer is still shutoff?
 

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Check Battery voltage

Tried jumping the car, or new battery? Try basic stuff first instead of messing with the electronics...just my suggestion.

Regards,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its done this to me before. It has a new super good battery. The light click is bugging me though
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think the alarm is aftermarket... And there might be my problem. How do I go about having it removed?
 

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If you're getting a click from the starter solenoid, it's probably not an immobilizer. The question is, where is the click coming from exactly.

My first thing to investigate would be a low battery. What is the voltage gauge on the instrument cluster reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll check in a few when I get home from school
 

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Yup, IF the solenoid is what is clicking, but no starter action, the first thing I always look at is the battery charge and it's connections.

On these cars, and most as well, a low battery will usually power the lights, fan, other components, radio, but not the starter and it's solenoid, a high drain item. Not enough charge to both complete the solenoid action and turn the start motor on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, got to the car, still no start. Gauge is showing 12v so, I opened the trunk, undid the battery contact posts, and gave em a twist, then re-tightened. Darn thing started right up. Getting used to cold weather antics by now, I think. Thanks for your input, glad I was reminded to check the easy stuff.
 

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Hooray. That was the easiest of stuff for these cars. I would go on a long trip somewhere, and forget to remove the radio fuse in the LS as it sits in the garage at home. It would react exactly as you described. Either drained battery or bad battery connections.

Does sound like maybe you should disconnect the battery, resurface/sand/scrape the posts and connectors, then retighten (tight!). Also, it helps to use those red and green felt chemical soaked washers under the connectors to keep things corrosion free.
 

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Okay, got to the car, still no start. Gauge is showing 12v so, I opened the trunk, undid the battery contact posts, and gave em a twist, then re-tightened. Darn thing started right up. Getting used to cold weather antics by now, I think. Thanks for your input, glad I was reminded to check the easy stuff.
It may also be a coincidence though I don't want to sound pessimistic.

I had an issue where I'd turn the key and the starter solenoid would click. Sometimes it worked at first try, sometimes it took a few clicks to get it started or even a few bangs with a rod.

What happened is that the solenoid has in it a large copper bar that closes the circuit from the battery to the starter motor coils. This bar got corroded and it would only carry enough current in certain positions. Getting the bar to make contact was a matter of probabilities.

Solenoids are cheap, widely available and easy to replace. The problem is always getting there, especially in the V6. In the turbo removing the starter isn't difficult though I had a few frozen bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm still experiencing a no start condition. Now its right after I shut it off. Neg, isn't biting down enough I think so I picked up a spare neg cable. Gonna try to replace it out in the cold. Should b fine
 

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Try a voltage drop test: connect one lead of a multimeter to the negative post (yes, directly) and the connect the other lead to a good ground on the engine block. Anything more than 0.5V is significant loss. Do this test with the engine off and repeat while cranking.

This works by measuring the voltage that takes an alternate path through the multimeter. Remember the ground path to the engine block is tortuous: there's the clamp, there's the bolted connection to the chassis in the trunk and there's the grounding strap on the block. Your big problem may be a sum of small problems (out in the cold, all problems are bigger!).
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Okay, I replaced the cable and did get a couple good starts, Then I moved the car into the carport, shut it off, and no start, but decided to keep the key in the Start Position, when I heard a rapid set of clicks in the engine bay closer to the passenger side, then the starter started to turn. I shut it off, and started it again. But I can tell that my starter does sound a little odd, kinda pingy, metallic like. What side of the car is the starter?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The battery is in the trunk of my car so its hard to put leads in the battery, and engine bay at the same time:(
 

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I think your starter is on the way out:( I've had a couple of cars with similar symptoms.

To do the voltage drop test SpiralArchitech is suggesting, you don't need to be in the engine bay. You can do the whole thing in the trunk. Put the neg Black lead of the multimeter on the battery post (not on the battery cable, or the clamp but the post itself). Touch the other red lead to a ground in the trunk...any clean area of sheet metal, or a bolt...try one of the small bolts on the tail light inner cover, or where the bolt where the ground wire attaches.
 

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I think your starter is on the way out:( I've had a couple of cars with similar symptoms.

To do the voltage drop test SpiralArchitech is suggesting, you don't need to be in the engine bay. You can do the whole thing in the trunk.
Doing the test on the trunk will only tell if the clamp, cable and bolted connection to chassis are good. Whenever possible, it's better to test the drop from the post to the engine block as that also tests the engine ground strap.

Any piece of good wire that can be connected to the engine with vise-grips will do.
 

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The battery is in the trunk of my car so its hard to put leads in the battery, and engine bay at the same time:(
I know that well, I made some 5 meter alligator wires when I had the same problem you had.

If you can possibly reach the starter solenoid posts (both positive), it will be a great idea to do a voltage test between the two to tell if the copper bar I mentioned is conducting properly.

I'd bet on the solenoid from the description you gave. Now let's find some evidence. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
It's 40 outside at the moment(& dropping), but it feels colder than that. Darn feet started to get really cold, lol, I thought i could go out and do it but i cant. Too cold!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think your starter is on the way out:( I've had a couple of cars with similar symptoms.

To do the voltage drop test SpiralArchitech is suggesting, you don't need to be in the engine bay. You can do the whole thing in the trunk. Put the neg Black lead of the multimeter on the battery post (not on the battery cable, or the clamp but the post itself). Touch the other red lead to a ground in the trunk...any clean area of sheet metal, or a bolt...try one of the small bolts on the tail light inner cover, or where the bolt where the ground wire attaches.
Sounds expensive, this time I know it is. Me thinks the 164L is going to go into hibernation for a while. I could really use my old spider as a 164 backup here. Or any other alfa for that matter. :chris:
 

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Sounds expensive, this time I know it is.
When I had the problems I described (very similar to this, click and no-start), it wasn't an expensive fix.

The new solenoid cost me 25€ and I also bought a new set of brushes for 11€ that weren't necessary. There's no point in replacing the whole starter unless it's mechanically worn (or has blown windings) or you're paying someone to do it.

These cars can give unscrupulous professionals many ways to fleece the owner.
 
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