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Discussion Starter #22
You mean dialing it further down to 1 or so? I have not tried that.....The advance mechanism moved freely when I last checked. What bugs me is that it ran fine for let's say 35 miles after the service.....
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I did try giving it more......I will try the fuel filter, although the shop put in the fuel regulator becuase it had too much pressure, that would not make sense with a clogged filter. The carbs are clean, not great, but clean
 

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Discussion Starter #27
so I decided to first replace the filter. Here's what I found under my car. The thing to the left is the fuel pump, a non original FRAM (probably with too much preesure) and the thing to the right was screwed in....I suppose that's the filter? I see no other filter. I can very easily blow through it, not sure whether this is an indication of anything.
Sorry for being so ignorant, but please let me know if I am on the right track
 

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If the car ran well for some time and has just recently developed this problem then I would replace the filter. Filters catch dirt and while the pump is pushing the dirt it can clog the passage. With the pump off the dirt settles to the bottom. When restarting the filter allows fuel to pass through for a short time until it clogs again. To get the real truth about the filter condition, you have to let it dry out for a few days and then use compressed air and see what blows out.
The fuel pump on a carbed car does not have to be real strong. I left the bipass return system in tact and use a splitter and pressure regulator.

Again, If the car has run well and has just recently developed the problem, then try just replacing the filter. If it has never run well with this setup, then I would replace both the pump and the filter with a standard carb type fuel pump, and inline filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
replaced the fuel filter, no luck!:mad:
So, I am thinking it may be the ignition not advancing properly. How hard is it to convert to an electronic ignition? What should i get? Note, the car does not have the original 1600. I have a 70's two liter that was converted from injection to carbs, if that matters?
 

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So with a fuel pressure gauge, you can tell what your actual pressure is from the filter. If you know a mechanic that can run that test, then you can tell if you are getting enough from the pump. I got no clue about the pump.

distributor. When you pull a plug with the engine running using an insullated set of pliers, you should see a blue spark jumping to the plug, or to ground.
If the spark is red, then you spark is weak. Weak could be caused by Bad coil, or poor plug wires.

If you have a timing light, you can check the advance on the distributor by setting the points at the correct gap, at the correct distributor postion with the engine off. Once you have them set correctly with the engine off then you use the timing light to check the advance curve at @ 4K rpm looking down at the timing mark.

I actually have the kit that converts the original distributor to electronic, by setting up an LED sensor. But this uses the original advance system built into the weights and springs. You can pull your distributor and get it checked. Best thing to do is make sure that your spark is good and that your fuel is good and check out your advance spark using a timing light.

Look in IAP, Centerline, or any of the suppliers and see what is available. You can spend as much as you want to on distributors.

It doesn't make since that your engine is not running correctly with the original equipment.
 
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