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Discussion Starter #1
I got this Alfetta Sedan a while back and want to see if I can get it running. The PO said it needed a fuel pump, but when I put 12v directly to the pump it runs.
When I turn the key to run, there is no power to the fuel pump. Is there a relay, which one? Which one of the bullet fuses is for the fuel pump?

Also, I can't get the trunk open. It appears to be unlocked and looks to me like the button is pushed in, but the latch isn't releasing. Any suggestions?
 

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Fuel, compression, timed ignition, it should run. Have you checked it's got fuel at the FI pump in the front? Check for compression and spark? Being Spica the settings could be poor, TA failed, etc. If you're sure of spark, spray in some starter fluid, see if it fires.
Andrew
 

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Is the inertia switch for the fuel pump pushed down? It sounds like kind of a dumb thing to say, but it's an easy thing to forget. Make sure wiring to that switch isn't chewed either. As far as the fuses/relays, the clear plastic cover for the actual fuses should have some Italian on it, put that into a converter and see which section has the pump, or I could check for you on mine. The wiring for the plug that goes to the fuel pump is under the back seat, passenger side, under a circular cutout, check to make sure that isn't chewed as well. If all of these things are fine, then I'm not sure what it could be, check the Haynes manual, and I could do some digging around on my car to see what another possible issue could be. As far as the lock is concerned, try shooting some rust penetrant around the lock and see if anything frees up (it might be able to slip through the gap and get into the crevaces in the lock and latch), or as a last ditch effort, you could drill out the lock and try that, if you get it and know it's open, but the hatch still won't lift, try wedging a prising tool of some sort in between the hatch and rear panel. Good luck.
 

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I’m bringing a 77/78 Alfetta Sprint back to full service. PO described a variety of electrical absences when I bought it.

About 65% of the non-op problems were cured by removing every fuse and gently buffing the ends with a motorized wire wheel.

Some Alfas I’ve worked on have the ignition and fuel pump on the same fuse. Not sure about a Fetta. It would explain why a battery to the pump would light it up, but the spark wouldn’t happen.
 

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Fuse #8 is fuel pump. But like Don said remove and clean all fuses. Then trace the power one step at a time to the pump using your meter or test lamp. The pump wire is pink. Start at the fuse panel. The pink wire heads up to the passenger firewall to the inertia switch, a barrel with a push button on top. Then on back to the fuel pump as Tasteless explained. If the pump now works see if it pumps fuel at the front filter (you need an xtra person and probably a fire extinguisher in case you pump a lot of fuel out. Then follow Andrew's advice.
Good luck.
 

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Richard, so your Kiwi trip is off, I assume? All our springtime trips and plans are in the toilet. Don't know about the summer plans yet. Bah humbug!!

What year is this Alfetta? Alas, I think I sold my Alfetta workshop manuals to Books4cars in Seattle. Will have to look to see if I still have them. Might be of use to you if I do. I had two Alfetta sedans.

I do have the Alfa workshop manual for the front suspension of the Giulia and 1750 (Berlina) series if you want it.
 

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I forgot to add, if it's the original Bosch 3 port fuel pump, scrap it. If it works ok and pumps fuel how it should, I would still swap it. I've tried rebuilding 2 of these pumps from my cars now and neither of them worked, fuel slowly trickled out of the pump, even though the thing sounded like it was pumping twice as much as it should. Just link the 2 ends of the return line together and hook up the in and out lines to convert it to a 2 port pump. Make sure you replace all of the flexible lines and clean out all of the hard lines as best you can, don't want them being clogged up with varnish.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for replied. I ran power to the fuel pump direct from the battery temporarily to the pump and have fuel at the filter, but non at the injectors when I open the fuel line there. I'll change the filter and see what that does. Is there a fuel filter in the SPICA?
The cover for the fuse panel is line gone. I'll see if I can locate the inerta switch in the passenger foot well.
We got back from NZ Feb 27, Del, just in time for the ramp up here. We're pretty much honkered down here. Avoiding people and stores.
 

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How do you know there is no fuel coming from the injectors? Did you loosen an injector line and crank the engine?

Have you confirmed there is a belt between the crank pulley and the Spica pulls?

Some cars have check valves in either one or both the pressure feed line to the Spica and the return line from the Spica. As a test, you can remove them and go direct. If/when you reinstall them, you must confirm they are correctly oriented.

Make sure the line from your main fuel filter to the Spica is connected to the nipple in the middle of the pump. The nipple at the front of the pump is for the return line.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Today, I confirmed I have fuel going into that SPICA and put the return fitting.
Again, I removed the steel fuel line from #4 injector and cranked it over. I'm getting a small amount of gas out. Maybe it doesn't take much.
I started to remove the plugs. #4 is coming really hard, so I stopped and went to #3. Same thing. #2 looked in the same condition so went to #1. It had some dried oil around it and came out easily. The other 3 are soaking in PD Blaster at least over night.
 

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I started to remove the plugs. #4 is coming really hard, so I stopped and went to #3. Same thing. #2 looked in the same condition so went to #1. It had some dried oil around it and came out easily. The other 3 are soaking in PD Blaster at least over night.
Be careful, I broke 2 of the ends of my spark plugs off when I took them out for the first time (granted, mine were in there respective holes for 40 years), The one came out eventually, but the nut of the other plug sheared off, and I had to drill it out and use a screw extractor on it. I had the same smaller amount of fuel coming out of my injectors, but that could be the cold start solenoid restricting it so you don't flood it, mine runs fine.
 

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Gently torque/work the gummed up plugs back and forth just a little to slowly work them loose. Same technique as loosening the long thermostat housing bolts which can be stuck the same way. At first you may not feel movement but after a few tries, there should be slowly increasing movement back and forth. Took me a couple of hours of doing this with one therm bolt before it finally loosened up and could be removed (now I loosen and retorque all of them once a year in all the cars).
 

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The injectors will squirt only a small amount of fuel each stroke. If you get approx. the same amount out of each, probably they're OK. Usually if the FI pump is delivering any fuel to the cylinders, if the spark is happening at the right time and you have compression, it should at least fire, if not run fully.

Andrew
 

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If you get it running be sure to put in a small bottle of Techron FI cleaner in the tank, to start cleaning any gunk/deposits in the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I work #4 back and forth several times. It wasn't working so wanted to let them sit in PB Blaster for a while.
Today I worked #2 out, tomorrow is the day for # 3&4.
The distributor cap looks good, and I cleaned the rotor. I can't see the points, hidden by the advance weights.
The wires look terrible. #4 was rusted to the plug and hard to get off.
If I take the back seat out, can I access the trunk? or do I have to access the trunk to get the back rest out?
 

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If I take the back seat out, can I access the trunk? or do I have to access the trunk to get the back rest out?
You have to take the gas tank out to get to the back seat mounting bolts, but in order to take the gas tank out, you need to have access to the hatch. Even if you took the seat back out, that whole back panel is almost completely solid, except for a few access holes, and even if it weren't, the gas tank would still be in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No hatch, this is a sedan, but your comments probably still apply:)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I need to get the trunk open...the button doesn't move and it looks like it in...I gently tapped it with a small hammer and it didn't move. However, I have a much larger hammer and can eat spinach...
 

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"I work #4 back and forth several times"

Can take much longer than that before it can work. Could be a couple hundred cycles or more. At first you will probably not feel any give for a while. Requires patience. Still, soaking them might work as well. Keep at it. Took me a couple of hours with the stuck therm bolt.

The trunk button, did you also spray that thoroughly with PB? I do not remember now, even though I had two of these, but is there an emergency trunk latch cord in the Alfetta, as with the other cars? Might be behind the rear seat back cushion if there is, maybe lhs.

Also, have you tried to insert a slot screw driver into the key slot ant try to gently turn it?

BTW, what year is this sedan, and is the color blue, or black? Color/material of the interior?
 
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