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My 92 164 ran great yesterday when I drove it, and shut if off. Today it would not start. No spark. There is current to the positive side of the coil. What would be the common cause for this. Dist cap and rotor are clean and in good working order. I'm hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. Mike
 

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My 92 164 ran great yesterday when I drove it, and shut if off. Today it would not start. No spark. There is current to the positive side of the coil. What would be the common cause for this. Dist cap and rotor are clean and in good working order. I'm hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. Mike
Did you check resistance/continuity of coil wire and rotor? Resistance should be about 1k ohm oer each.

Did you check RPM/timing sensor 3-pin connector near front of rear timing belt cover?

You can use an inductive timing light on coil wire to see is it flashes but unless timing sensor, coil wire and rotor as working there won't be much of a chance of getting flashes.
 

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The timing sensor tested ok, did not get any flash from the coil wire, but I am getting a constant 9v reading from the coil wire when the key is on. I think this repair may get expensive.
 

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Check your battery voltage. 9v may turn the car over, but it's not enough to energize the computer. Try charging the battery.
 

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Check your battery voltage. 9v may turn the car over, but it's not enough to energize the computer. Try charging the battery.
Yes you need over 10.5 volts while cranking. You should have 12v at coil green-balck wire with key.
 

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Hello, i just got a 91 164 that i am parting out and want to get it running to double check the automatic transmission before i start taking it apart. The gentleman who i purchased it from told me it ran and drove fine before having problems with the fuel pump. While i locate a fuel pump is it possible to get it to fire on starter fluid? or does it require fuel pressure for the computer to send a spark? Right now it doesn't have a spark but it does turn over and the tachometer moves so i am assuming the crank position sensor is working? I have very little experience with the electronic injected alfas, as I'm more into (old school alfas) so bare with me.
 

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There is no fuel pressure sender on the fuel system, so it should fire on starter fluid.
Before spending $$ on a full pump, you should check out a few things.
1. The fuel pump runs when the engine is cranked...can you hear it running. (It doesn't run when the key is turn on before turning it engage starter)
2. If you hear the pump run, put a pressure gage in the rubber fuel line at the manifold. Pressure should be over 40 and not drop of quickly after the key is turned off. If it does, likely the rubber hose on the fuel pump is bad.
3. If you can't hear the pump running, check the relay under the hood.
 

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The pump was definitely bad i tested it in the car with my HP variable DC power supply and i had nothing, i took the pump out and bumped it several times with a small hammer to try and get the brushes to make contact and still nothing, come to find out the bushes in the motor are disintegrated, never seen anything like it... I have the battery charging currently in case there just wasn't enough power getting to the computers. What should the impedance of the ignition coil be? With the wires disconnected I'm getting 2 ohms on the coil.
 

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164 12v V6 ignition/fuel readings/values

Coil primary about .7 ohm secondary 5.5 to 6.6 kohm

rotor 1.1 kohm

coil wire 1 kohm

sparkplug wires 2.5kohm.

fuel pressure about 42-47 psi with engine off key on fuel pump relay socket jumpered pin 30 pink wire jumpered to pin 87 pink-white wire

With engine running (idling) vac line on fuel pressure regulator fuel pressure 35-40 psi

With pump off the fuel pressure press should stay trapped in fuel rail above 30 psi for quite some time if pump hose in tank and check valve on pump good.

Crank rpm/timing sensor on front pulley resistance should be .6 kohm between middle pin and one of side pins and no reading to other side pin (emi shielded)
 

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Thanks for the help, I got it running and surprisingly after sitting since 2004 it runs very well. I am thinking about putting the engine in my 74 spider. Thats not on my priority till i get some of my other projects done. So the engine now sits in my shop next to my spider, I very carefully took out the engine wiring harness with the ecu and plugged everything back in so I don't forget how it all goes together. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what wires need power in order to get the engine to run outside of the car?
 

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Thanks for the help, I got it running and surprisingly after sitting since 2004 it runs very well. I am thinking about putting the engine in my 74 spider. Thats not on my priority till i get some of my other projects done. So the engine now sits in my shop next to my spider, I very carefully took out the engine wiring harness with the ecu and plugged everything back in so I don't forget how it all goes together. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what wires need power in order to get the engine to run outside of the car?
You also need to take the chassis side of small round G154 connector and some of the harness as well as the large round G151 connector and harness for starter and gauge senders. take the G56 terminal board connector off false firewall along with starter and alternator cables and battery cable. Red cables to ECU and motronic relays hook to G56.

You got bracket with coil and motronic and fuel pump relays from top radiator support right?
 

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