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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Everyone...so ‘73 Spider Veloce, w/webers. Car died on me as I was merging onto the highway. It just flat out stopped running.

Currently sitting on the shoulder with no power. Battery seems to have juice, but with the key turned no fuel pump or starter noises, no radio, gauges, lights nothing.

Possible issues? Seems like a bad battery maybe? No circuit?

A bit stumped to be honest.
 

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Hey Everyone...so ‘73 Spider Veloce, w/webers. Car died on me as I was merging onto the highway. It just flat out stopped running.

Currently sitting on the shoulder with no power. Battery seems to have juice, but with the key turned no fuel pump or starter noises, no radio, gauges, lights nothing.

Possible issues? Seems like a bad battery maybe? No circuit?

A bit stumped to be honest.
Do your lights work? How bright? Lights work without ignition. If not. Check battery connections, battery ground, etc
 

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Car died on me as I was merging onto the highway. It just flat out stopped running. Seems like a bad battery maybe?
It's not the battery. Two reasons:

- Batteries seldom die instantly.

- Once your car is running, you don't even need the battery - the alternator is supplying the juice. So even if a battery did die while the car was running, the only symptom would be a glowing "GEN" light.

No circuit?
Yea, no circuit; but the question is: "which one?" It's almost like the hot wire fell off the back of the ignition switch.
 

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The lights are independent of the ignition switch so it is something upstream. Battery connections, connections at remote end of battery cables, power terminal on left inner fender.
 

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The lights are independent of the ignition switch so it is something upstream.
Yes, agree.

Battery connections, connections at remote end of battery cables
Bad battery connections would cause the car to not start. But I don't think they could kill it while it was running (again, the alternator would continue supplying current).

power terminal on left inner fender.
Was the junction block introduced as early as '73? If so, it could be the cause of alfaronto's symptoms, since it handles power from the alternator as well as the battery.
 

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I had a similar situation with my Duetto. Stuck with no power to the spark. The fuse was a bit corroded. I twisted the fuse and was on my way after a good half an hour of foul language. It clears your head.
 

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I had been experiencing the same recently, off and on — it would start fine and run fine until I turned it off. Next time, it was dead — absolutely nothing. So, i got under the hood and gave the terminals a few good raps, and voila — back in the saddle again. After a half dozen or so of these episodes, I had to get serious. Turns out that there was a bad connection at the ring connector of the wire that runs from the battery + to the alternator? Properly replacing that terminal has made me fat, dumb, and happy that I don’t have to open the hood in the supermarket parking lot anymore. ��
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is all very helpful, thanks guys! Gonna look into it today.

Thankfully Hagerty’s roadside assistance got her back to my driveway with little fuss.

I had been experiencing the same recently, off and on — it would start fine and run fine until I turned it off. Next time, it was dead — absolutely nothing. So, i got under the hood and gave the terminals a few good raps, and voila — back in the saddle again. After a half dozen or so of these episodes, I had to get serious. Turns out that there was a bad connection at the ring connector of the wire that runs from the battery + to the alternator? Properly replacing that terminal has made me fat, dumb, and happy that I don’t have to open the hood in the supermarket parking lot anymore. ��
 

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I had been experiencing the same recently, off and on — it would start fine and run fine until I turned it off. Next time, it was dead — absolutely nothing.
Glad to hear that radojko solved his problem, but I wouldn't call his symptoms "the same". Not being able to start your Alfa is quite different than having it die while running.

alfaronto should look at this battery terminals - he should look at everything. But I really don't think his symptoms point a battery-related problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I agree.

So the power terminal is where in the left inner fender?

When I look at the wiring diagram I'm not seeing any power terminals. I see the battery, and two leads off, one going to the starter and the other to the alternator (72-73 2000 Spider Veloce USA version by Papajam).

If it isn't the battery not much else it can be using this diagram...like the battery ground cable or positive cable.
 

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...So the power terminal is where in the left inner fender?
I see the battery, and two leads off....
your 72 has the battery under the hood, correct?

iirc the power terminal was only introduced on models with the battery in the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Correct, the battery is in the engine bay near the left wheel well.

I’m gonna check the battery for voltage & continuity. I’m wondering if the battery actually broke inside...

...So the power terminal is where in the left inner fender?
I see the battery, and two leads off....
your 72 has the battery under the hood, correct?

iirc the power terminal was only introduced on models with the battery in the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Taken me a while to get back to this.

Okay some info:
-Battery is putting out a healthy 12.53VDC
-Continuity between the battery clamps is also good and 12.53VDC
-The ground cable is voltage continuous
-The power cable to the alternator is showing a 12.53VDC current also
-Car still has 0 power. No lights, fuel pump, generator light, nothing

I have to pull the battery to test the other + leads, but that is is so far.

Any other thoughts of what to check? Could this be an ignition switch issue? Like the key in the ignition is just not doing anything.

Joel
 

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As others have stated, if battery itself is ok, loss of power to everything usually means the battery earth cable is loose isn’t doing it’s job, or the power supply chain is broken somewhere along the line to the starter and fuse box, be that with or without a junction box along the way.

Couple of things you haven’t mentioned checking...
1. Battery-to-body earth connection (not just continuity of the cable itself, but that continuity goes to the body itself through a tight, clean earth bolt where the battery earth cable connects.) Easy tests: use a jumper lead from battery negative terminal to another solid earth point and try lights/starter again. Clean the earth point regardless.
2. The earth strap from engine to body is also good, clean and tight. It’s a woven copper strap located under the back, right of the motor, where the bell housing bolts to the block, behind the right wheel. Not easy to see. If that connection is not good, it would stop the starter turning even if power was getting to it...I think. Test: try the jumper lead test again, this time connected from somewhere on the motor directly to a solid body earth point, and try again. Clean up and tighten the strap and earth point regardless.
3. Is 12v arriving at the fuse box, thru the supply line from either a junction box or from the starter attachment point?
Maybe you have a couple of these issues.
Good luck.
 

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Measuring voltages with a meter can be deceptive. You can have a lousy power or ground connection somewhere and your meter will show full voltage when there is no load on the circuit. Measure the voltage between one end of the fuses and a local ground and turn on the lights or push the horn button. What voltages do you see?
 

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check the large positive cable (for crack or split) all the way from the battery plus post to the starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
FOUND IT!!!!

The large battery cable came out of the crimp on the starter! Whew. Just had to take the weber off which was a PITA, but simple enough to fix to get the car running.

Thanks for all the help!!!
 
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