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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I started the Alfa maybe 2 months ago on a nice winters day. Well it's still winter but 45 degrees and sunny. So I figured I would pull her out of the garage to clean. Well she just cranks and cranks but no start. I have spark but no fuel. So I pull the trunk carpet up and found one wire off the sender, one wire severely damaged, and the ground was extremely loose. So then I decided to check the wires on the hi pressure external pump they were in good shape. So I check for power their and there isn't any. I even had my son crank the engine and their is 0 power there.

So I pull up the rear carpet and I have 12.5 volts on each side of the bullet fuse. And both relays click. But it sounds like the bottom one clicks twice.
Any suggestions on where to go from here?

Thanks
 

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Since you have 0 volts at the fuel pump, supply 12v directly from the battery with jumper wires after disconnecting the existing wires and then have your son try to start the car. If it runs, then the fuel pump is working but the relays are not.

Everyone replaces the the inline fuse under the rear carpet with a new one - the OEM unit fades out over time.

Bruce
 

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What model year Spider? Since you mention relays I assume Series 3 with L-jetronic.

I agree with Bruce - replace the fuel pump fuse holder with a modern style blade fuse holder or at least put in a new fuse and clean the contacts in the fuse holder. The bullet fuses in our cars can somehow appear OK but fail to allow electrons to flow. The fuses with an aluminum strip are especially prone to this. I prefer the fuses with a brass strip. I know you said you measured 12.5V but it is possible to see that voltage with woefully inadequate electron flow and thus very low amperage. Same advice for the fuses in the main fuse box (if you have the bullet fuses there).

Next measure system voltage with everything off (including the courtesy lights). Put your voltmeter on the battery (a dash gauge is usually not wired for this test). A fully charged battery should show 12.6V Now see what it reads during cranking. The computers require about 10.5V to wake up and send the 'make spark/squirt fuel' signals. It can sound like it is cranking over fine but if the voltage is below that threshold it will not start.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know it has spark one of the wires is chewed from a mouse and I saw the spark jumping. So I know my cranking voltage is good. Reason I haven't bought a bunch of new parts is because I still don't have the title for the car.
 

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You have received quite a bit of good advice here. It is mine that you heed it. Running through the L-Jet troubleshooting guide typically produces results. Throwing parts at it or haphazardly looking for issues can become frustrating and be fruitless.
 

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Good advice above. Try running the pumps from an independent 12v source. No need to replace relays until you confirm one or both are the problem.
 

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there is spark, so cranking voltage will be OK.

Jump the fuel relay (#30 & #87) and then try starting....that will test wiring to pumps and fuse/fuse holder

the unknown here is that mouse though!
what wire did he chew, iow. where was it?

a couple of useful diagrams here re: the relays:
and further down, in post #9, it mentions pump grounds (one in trunk, one near ECU)...which you might need to check
Drive relay/ Main relay problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will check the grounds first and see if that is. From the car sitting so long I had to replace the negative battery cable and the ground strap on the transmission just to get it to turn over.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally some warmer weather so I messed with the car again. The main relay (small one) I tested with a relay tester and it showed green and then immediately went red. So I bought a new relay and the fuel pumps still aren't getting power. So on the drive relay post 87 I had my son crank over the engine and I was getting 10.8 volts out of the relay while cranking. But I still have no voltage at the pump. My question is where does the power wire from the hi pressure pump under the car run to...it looks like it goes under from the pump up into the floor and than past the FI ECU. Does it go to the front of the car somewhere, I can see the ground wire is grounded on the floor right under the relays.

Any other advice?

Thank You
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I got the power to the pump. I jumped 30 to 86 so it was easier to check. I had 11.8 volts to the pump. So I pounded on the pump and it started working lol. So I guess I need a new pump. Time to clean under the carpet of the ECU and replace the pump. Thanks for all the help.
 
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