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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The god-of-inconvenience visited on the freeway last night requiring a flatbed trip home.

Having proven spark and recently run 40 miles into the reserve prior to the last fill thoughts turned to fuel delivery.

First test, because it was easy, was to hook up a multimetre to the + and - on the main pump and crank engine. Having tested the metre on the battery and achieved 12.36v the subsequent test on the pump (while cranking) resulted in zero volts.

Before I trace into the birds nest that is the under dash wiring I was going to remove the + wire from the pump and direct connect the + pump terminal to the battery and try a start.

Given the pump is normally powered via a relay and there is more than one pump, is the test I'm proposing going to fail in any event because of some ECU management I have by-passed? ....and assuming the car starts, where is the next best place to go hunting?

Wires from pump are in good nick as far as they are visible under the car, around the ECU and across to the sill on the left, but that's as far as I've looked so far. Pump fuse is ok. L-jet FI.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was expecting pump fuse to be on the + wire to the pump. It isn't and I wasn't sure what the fuse did. I tested it any way not realising it was the pump fuse and it was ok. Original post corrected.
Tks
 

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Does your Spider have the fuel pump inertia shut-off switch? If so, it is located in the engine bay on the firewall between the hood latch & the windshield washer reservoir. It'll either be a silver can-shaped item or a black box about the size of a cigarette pack. Either will have a reset button on top.

These shut-off switches were problematic in that they'd kill power to the fuel pump inadvertently and sometimes not even re-set when the button was pressed. Later in the model run (about 1984 or 1985) it was determined that switch was redundant & eliminated. However, the wire harness wasn't modified and the wires that used to go to the switch were just connected together. If you still have the switch you can do the same. If your car does not have the switch I think you should search for the old wires and make sure they are still properly connected together.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tks Eric,

Will check. Added complication is the LHD>RHD conversion and resultant re-route of some of the harnesses and fuse box. Hopefully I won't have to get into the dash area to sort it, although I do need to rewire at some stage. Don't recall an inertia switch or reset but the area you refer to now hosts an Alfetta style brake bar and it could be hidden underneath. The relay testing is where I'll head next I think. I have enough to be going on with and I'll let you know how it goes.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Eric,
Tested relay and connection all good. Used Papajam's wiring diag and your advice. Inertia switch has been removed and although the connection had not been disturbed and looked sound, testing proved otherwise. Car running. Thanks... Once again.
 

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Yay! AlfaBB to the rescue!

I would say much more than that. There are many more Alfas on the road thanks to everybody on the ABB board.

Our Sandy spider (once submerged in the Atlantic thanks to hurricane Sandy) may run for the first time tomorrow, thanks to the ABB

thanks all
 
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