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Discussion Starter #1
1987 Spider with AC

Question 1
Using the sliders on the gearshift console, I can direct the air either to the “two top dash mounted” vents for defrost or to the floor vents. The Fan is controlled by the two-speed rocker-switch
THIS SEEMS TO BE CORRECT.

When turning on the AC (rotary knob) I assume air should come out the side-vents and the 3-middle vents.
AIR COMES OUT ONLY FROM PASSENGER SIDE VENT !!!???
No air out of the 3-middle vents, no air out of drivers side vents.:mad:
I double checked the drivers side vent, this is connected to a corrugated hose and attached via a boot to a big channel (box), so that vent is definitely connected. but why is there no air flow?

Why is there no air coming out those vents?

Question 2
By the way, the AC is not charged and I do not plan on fixing it.
To get some extra airflow, can I just take the AC relay or fuse out and use the vents for extra air?
Or should I take the belt of the AC compressor?


Thanks,

Marc
 

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the S3 spider has the AC sort of 'tacked' on to an already existing air-flow and heater system. visualize with me.

in all spiders, the right slider controls the heater ventilation system that controls the center channel of vents (from the floor, up through the center 3 vents, and topmost the defroster vents.) these will capture moving air, and so no blower fan is needed when the car is in motion. the blower-fan is controlled by the square fan switch above and can help push air through the central channel using the left-slider for temperature range and right-slider to control which channels are used.

the AC option changes that slightly. it has a new control , the rheostat and 4-position fan switch. it has its own SECONDARY fan and blows it through the farthest left and right vents, as well as a small bit through the central 3 vents.

you can run both fans if you wanted to , but shouldnt need to really. if youre running AC, then the right-slider is best left closed (bottom) to recirculate the air within the car.

your AC is most likely very cheap to recharge. if you feel the compressor clicking on and trying to work, then you will only need to replace both Schrader valves (about 5$) and recharge with Freeze12 (available on the web or through industrial sellers, but not to the public at large) just like before and unless there is a serious problem, it will recharge and work well.

the Baer AC system is pretty standalone in the spider implimentation and so is built pretty solid-state and tough. only a rip-off artist will try and sell you a rebuilt compressor without properly trying to recharge. the schrader valves are the weak-point in the Alfa. they sell them at NAPA but u will most likely need to bring the one you have in and compare them (or do it my way and buy all of them then return the un-needed the next day.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks

Can I replace those Schrader valves myself ? Or are they in line with the high pressure side ?


I understand your explanation of the Air Flow, but this still does not explain why I only have airflow coming out of the passenger side vent and nothing out of the drivers side and center vents. Shouldn't they all be interconnected ?

Graci,

Marco
 

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Thanks

Can I replace those Schrader valves myself ? Or are they in line with the high pressure side ?


I understand your explanation of the Air Flow, but this still does not explain why I only have airflow coming out of the passenger side vent and nothing out of the drivers side and center vents. Shouldn't they all be interconnected ?

Graci,

Marco
the blower under the dash has two outlets. Paper(cardboard) hoses direct the air to the passenger side (which is working) and driver side. I suspect that the paper hose to the driver's is disconnected or missing.

It's worth to fix the AC - Trust me on this one.

I'm an advocate or never removing the AC from a street spider. If anyone ever feels compelled to remove the AC to save the 1Hp that it draws, please cut the belt instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Unbelievable !!!
The previous owner showed me a bill that the blower was replaced last year...
I took off the passenger-side carpet of the gearshift upper console.
Two sections of thick grey plastic channel were laying on top of the gearshift (below the stereo). This was originaly one channel but probaply kinda blocked easy access to the blower.
These were cut with a hacksaw and were at one time held together with drywall screws.
When I turn on the AC fan, I can feel the air-flow coming out of one of the cut sections.

So I'll be taking the dash apart pretty soon and fabricate a new duct channel.

Marc
 

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Kinda off-topic...

...but I know what you mean!:mad:

When I was working on the engine intake earlier this year, I discovered that some hack had cut off the fuel rail support!! I guess it was too much trouble to work around it.
 

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after an AC recharge, run it all the time for at least a week to break it in good.

in the hottest time of year (last week in california) i actually put on the hardtop and run AC. it holds good!

i wonder if Fabric or Canvas works better for AC insulation as a ragtop? (i have vinyl)
 
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