It happened to a friend recently only he lost 3rd and 4th. The screw that holds the selector fork had worked loose.
No 1st or 2nd gear.
I have just experienced the total loss of 1st and 2nd gear. The shifter moves normally into both gears but nothing engages. 3rd 4th & 5th are normal. Reverse is normal. Just will not engage 1st and 2nd. No untoward noise and no other changes. Has anyone experienced this? Highest regards, Darrell
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Thanks for the info. Im looking at the exploded view of the trans and I'll look for the culprit.
Would not be the first time the bolt and lock nut which holds the shift fork worked loose and the selector rod just started sliding back and forth in the fork. Unfortunately, the selector forks in an Alfa transmission are all inside the sealed case of the gearbox; no handy inspection plate like on an MG or Austin Healey or removable top plate/selector housing like a Jaguar or Triumph. You are condemed to removing the replacing the transmission just to tighten or replace a bolt and lock nut. Tough break!
Trans is coming out so I can reattach the 1st 2nd shift fork. Saw an exploded view of the trans showing the rails and forks but can't seem to find it again. If anyone has that location, I'll bookmark it this time. Some of these trans threads available are actually so entertaining it adds to the project time as I get immersed in others posts.
Thanks, Darrell
Thanks, Darrell
105 gearbox exploded views
Hi Darrell,
You might be referring to one of the pages in the document I've attached below.
Hi Darrell,
You might be referring to one of the pages in the document I've attached below.
Attachments
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1.9 MB Views: 382
Since you have to pull the TX to fix this, consider doing the "First Gear Fix" (see the Duetto Sticky) while you are at it. It's a lot of work to pull the TX, and you should do everything needed for the next 10 years!!
You can even joint the debate on pulling the whole engine and TX vs removing just the TX. That's mostly about those dxxxm bolts at the top of the bell housing by the firewall......
Robert
You can even joint the debate on pulling the whole engine and TX vs removing just the TX. That's mostly about those dxxxm bolts at the top of the bell housing by the firewall......
Robert
Thanks for the link and timely advice. I've not pulled the trans w/o pulling the engine as well. After reading the thread referencing several alfisti doing this at once, I'm pulling it alone. More to come. I can probably use some advanced guidance re: 4 letter words.
Thanks,
Darrell
Thanks,
Darrell
Yosemite Sam: "Rata frazzit".....I can probably use some advanced guidance re: 4 letter words......
ROBERT
What part of the country are you located in? Any possibility of help/moral support (or a free 6 pack) from a fellow Alfisti?
VF31RHILL, Ft, Myers Fl. is home. Just trying to balance the Alfa project with several boat projects so I don't get too far behind. I live aboard a ketch rigged sailing vessel and have several other boats I attend to here in the marina. Snaggle fratz will be one of my favorites.
Thanks, Darrell
Thanks, Darrell
Got everything unbolted, raised the front of the engine as much as it would come, cleared the top of the trans and after almost clearing the tunnel it is now stuck and won't come further aft to clear. I've jacked the front up then down as well as the trans. Ideas before I use force to clear it ( usually not a good idea in my exp.).Thanks in advance.
Best regards, Learning new Italian swear words,
Darrell
Best regards, Learning new Italian swear words,
Darrell
check these possible interference points
It sounds like you decided to remove the gearbox rearwards (by itself) without pulling it out from above (together with the engine). That's the same method I used, so here are some things to check.
Did you:
1. Remove the inner and outer shifter boots and shifter rod (11mm bolt)?
2. Disconnect one side of the steering system so that the center connecting rod could be dropped down far enough to allow the bell housing to clear it?
3. Remove the downpipe/catalytic converter section of the exhaust?
4. Remove the transmission tunnel cross tie bar (10mm) (ARM 13-7) and remove the entire prop shaft?
5. Disconnect the two ECU sensors and the ground strap from the bell housing (ARM 13-9)?
6. Remove the starter?
7. Remove all 6 of the bolts (or nuts) that secure the bell housing to the engine block?
8. Remove the bell housing lower shield (4 bolts, 10mm wrench) (ARM 13-8)?
9. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the clutch master cylinder and disconnect the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic hose from the union attached to the edge of the bell housing (ARM 13-9)?
10. Disconnect the backup lamp switch wires?
11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox?
12. Remove the four bolts (13mm) that secure the transmission support cross bar to the undercarriage?
13. Remove the sump guard?
14. Unbolt the fan shroud from the radiator?
If one of the above was not done it could be causing an interference problem.
Have you been able to get the bell housing to pull away/separate from the engine block at all (even 1/8")?
Hi Darrell,Got everything unbolted, raised the front of the engine as much as it would come, cleared the top of the trans and after almost clearing the tunnel it is now stuck and won't come further aft to clear. I've jacked the front up then down as well as the trans. Ideas before I use force to clear it (usually not a good idea in my exp.).Thanks in advance.
Best regards, Learning new Italian swear words,
Darrell
It sounds like you decided to remove the gearbox rearwards (by itself) without pulling it out from above (together with the engine). That's the same method I used, so here are some things to check.
Did you:
1. Remove the inner and outer shifter boots and shifter rod (11mm bolt)?
2. Disconnect one side of the steering system so that the center connecting rod could be dropped down far enough to allow the bell housing to clear it?
3. Remove the downpipe/catalytic converter section of the exhaust?
4. Remove the transmission tunnel cross tie bar (10mm) (ARM 13-7) and remove the entire prop shaft?
5. Disconnect the two ECU sensors and the ground strap from the bell housing (ARM 13-9)?
6. Remove the starter?
7. Remove all 6 of the bolts (or nuts) that secure the bell housing to the engine block?
8. Remove the bell housing lower shield (4 bolts, 10mm wrench) (ARM 13-8)?
9. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the clutch master cylinder and disconnect the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic hose from the union attached to the edge of the bell housing (ARM 13-9)?
10. Disconnect the backup lamp switch wires?
11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox?
12. Remove the four bolts (13mm) that secure the transmission support cross bar to the undercarriage?
13. Remove the sump guard?
14. Unbolt the fan shroud from the radiator?
If one of the above was not done it could be causing an interference problem.
Have you been able to get the bell housing to pull away/separate from the engine block at all (even 1/8")?
"Niagara Falls"Yosemite Sam: "Rata frazzit"
ROBERT
Thanks for the reply Norseman. I have the trans at least 2" away from the engine. My spider is not heavily modified but a somewhat minimilistic street car with a lot of the extraneous stuff removed. I just unbolted the motor mounts in the hope that a bit more angle will clear the tunnel.
Thanks for more stuff to check. I haven't seen any interference with steering but I'll see if maybe that's an issue.
I'll shout when the trans hits the bench.
Thanks, Darrell
Thanks for more stuff to check. I haven't seen any interference with steering but I'll see if maybe that's an issue.
I'll shout when the trans hits the bench.
Thanks, Darrell
Trans is quietly waiting for disassembly on the bench. Nothing was in the way and it just required a little more angle to clear the tunnel.Thanks guys. More I'm sure to follow.
Found a broken locking bolt on the 1st and 2nd gear fork. where can I source a replacement for it? Can it be replaced with anything commonly available or is it a unique creature?
Unique creature. As you well know by now, it is not worth taking a chance on anything less than the best of original parts for this fix. Don't want to take any short cut now which might have the slightest risk of having to do a re-do.
I might have the bolt as I have a box of parts from a gearbox that had a catastrophic failure. Do you have a picture of the one that you want?
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