Alfa Romeo Forums banner

241 - 260 of 264 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #241
Sensies, thank you for the feedback, I will try to get the air flow situation fixed properly. As for the brake reservoir, not even LugNut would run it like that, LOL. Waiting on new grommets to arrive.:)

Magnesium, huh? Care to expound for LugNut?

Mahalo and Aloha.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,546 Posts
Couple things.

I thought that the radiator overflow tube was on the passenger side. Will need other S3 owners to confirm.

Also, for that hose, I would re route it under the big hose as the way you have it, the clamp on the big hose will rub a hole into it at some point.

1604249


Looking good.

Vin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #243
Thanks Sensei Vin ... Interesting thing is the Coolant Reservoir is just "sitting" in that spot, not clamped or bracketed. And the over-flow tube is long, so that's why I routed it up and over and under, so that it didn't hang loose, but i can reroute it and zip-tie it out of the way. I wonder where the Coolant Reservoir really belongs, lol.

I got the VVT solenoid today, new battery tomorrow, repair VVT harness soon, change water, change oil, and..... Oh Boy....soon the test. :p

Dum du dum dum duuuummmm....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,382 Posts
radiator overflow hose is on wrong side because the rad is a replacement for a carbed car.
the coolant reservoir on carbed cars was on the driver's side, between brake master and battery (the battery on carbed cars being under the hood, where your injected air cleaner sits)

The coolant reservoir on your car is in the correct position, but you are missing the big 2 piece clamp (maybe it's in your box of bits?)
there should be a tab/clip on passenger side of radiator bracket to hold the hose.
reservoir clamp looks like this:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #245
Aloha and Good Morning, Gang....

Serie4 ... thanks, Sensei. I see the fender-wall brackets on each side of the coolant reservoir, but definitely no clamp there or in the box. I suspect it's been gone a long time and my friend can order and install, I'll just zip-tie for now.

Thunderstorm weather delay for now. Going to auto store for air-tube clamps, oil/filter/battery/antifreeze. Post office for grommets, they've arrived.

As for the apparent "shortage" in length of air-tubes, the engine mount doesn't seem to be all that bad, but it does have a bit of a crack in the base, possible that even with the bolt through it the engine is a hair off kilter. I finally get to jerry-rig something!! LOL ... Gonna put about 3/4 inch spacing washers under the two lower air-filter housing to raise it up and allow the tubes to better match, then jerry-rig a zip-tie loop through the third housing bolt hole to stabilize.

I've taken some up-close pics of the worst wheel for your comments and suggestions.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
1604374
1604375
1604376
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #246
Serie4 ... I missed the detail info on the wheels in you're earlier post, yes they are stamped with the "CD35"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #247
Oooops... they're only stamped C35. They don't look much like the "rare" ones I've just seen doing some research.
1604379
1604380
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #248
Aloha and Good Morning, Gang ...

So... this is it then. Completed assembly, repaired VVT harness (best I could), fixed Brake Reservoir and filled, banded accordion air tubes, filled w/ water for first flush, rerouted coolant over-flow hose, filled oil 4 quarts for now, new battery.... nothing to do now but turn the key !!!! Gonna have wifey video it on her iPhone, can vid files be posted here?

Final assembly pics attached, yes the radiator cap is off for now, lol. The white thing between Air Filter Housing and fender wall is piece of stryo foam to support the jerry-rig.

Wish LugNut good luck. :p

1604516
1604517
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
313 Posts
Do you have oil showing on the dipstick? 4 quarts seems a bit shy with the batwing oil sump. Some might recommend taking the plugs out and cranking it until there is oil pressure before the actual first start attempt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,382 Posts
is there an air filter in there? Doesn't really look like it...the air filter is quite fat and might make the difference to align the filter box and the accordian hose better.
that single brass bolt on top of the throttle butterfly is the coolant bleed screw in case you need it...don't forget to put the heater slide up to full HOT when filling with coolant and starting her up for the first time. And use antifreeze even if it is warm where you are...aluminium engines need it all year round.

getting there:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #251
Do you have oil showing on the dipstick? 4 quarts seems a bit shy with the batwing oil sump. Some might recommend taking the plugs out and cranking it until there is oil pressure before the actual first start attempt.
Aahhh ... if only I'd have waited 15 minutes, huh? lol. Sensei Vin, no, no oil registered on the dipstick. My bad for assuming this small car would use low amount of oil. 5th quart hit tip of stick, 6th quart registered above low point. What is the proper capacity?

The good news is she sounds fine, no weird noises/clunks. Bad news is she didn't start yet. Sounds like she wants to, even gives a spurt, but no catch and no go. Could be bad old fuel still in the lines, added 3gal to the tank. Fuel pump is delivering fuel to the rail. New battery might have been not fully charged, gotta wait for my neighbor to get home to get his super charger. After some attmepts to start, not too many but "enough", the battery now reads 11.5 volts. I didn't put new plugs in because though the were dirty, they cleaned up well and looked good. Friend says they were changed not too long before the car became inoperable.

One noticeable issue ... when the key is "on", fuel pump can be heard under car (good), but there is a noticeable "hiss" somewhere up near the Injector 1. It's consistent and sounds like an air hiss, not an electrical buzz. Pushing around on the rail and various hoses so far has not changed the hiss. It's not extremely loud, but noticeable and consistent. But pushing around on the rail did show that some of my injectors are not set super tight, they seem to move a bit and fuel did leak from the seal of Inj#1. Inj#4 also showed some movement, but no fuel leak. Is this simply LugNut not seating the injectors properly? Or are there seals I can replace?

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff aka LugNut
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,382 Posts
What is the proper capacity?
about 6,8 quarts

One noticeable issue ... when the key is "on", fuel pump can be heard under car (good)
well it's ok for now as you are trying to get it to start and run, but it is not "good" as the pump should only prime for a second or two...that is likely to do with the replacement fuel relay, they probably used a KAE relay instead of the expensive Bosch relay (common fault)
The pump should only work during cranking or when engine is running (safety thing - in an accident you don't want fuel pumping out)

So....back to trying to get her started
Yes your battery 11,5V is too low: a good battery is 12.6V, and more importantly you need min. 11V "whilst cranking the starter", or the computor will not awake.
Do you have spark?
Do you have 12 volt at the coil with key ON? (from the positive terminal to a good ground?)
are your coil wires correct?: two green/blacks on the plus side and two whites, a black/white and a yellow on the minus side
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #253
is there an air filter in there? Doesn't really look like it...the air filter is quite fat and might make the difference to align the filter box and the accordian hose better.
that single brass bolt on top of the throttle butterfly is the coolant bleed screw in case you need it...don't forget to put the heater slide up to full HOT when filling with coolant and starting her up for the first time. And use antifreeze even if it is warm where you are...aluminium engines need it all year round.

getting there:)
Yes, air filter is in. As for antifreeze, am going to empty/flush first if I can. I did not have the heater up to full hot, but will certainly go 50/50 after I drain plain flush water. Was also looking for leaks first, lol.

(New message just received)

I'll add a 7th qt. of oil then.
I haven't checked on the spark yet, was going to do that next. It gave a couple of "spurts" so I'm assuming it's ok, but again I will check the spark issue
Coil wires are correct. Will wait to charge battery and check voltage later. Beer and beach time right now.

Any thoughts on the "hiss"?


LugNut
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,382 Posts
if the hiss is there only with key on, it has to be electrical or a fuel leak hiss....there is no air being moved with just key on. (and normally no fuel being moved either, except in your case, the pump is running, when it shouldn't be!)
maybe an injector buzzing? try wiggling the wires to each injector with key on to see if the "hiss" changes.
yes there are seals under the injectors that can be replaced, but the injectors shouldn't move once the two small allen bolts (on each injector hold down plate) have been tightened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #255
if the hiss is there only with key on, it has to be electrical or a fuel leak hiss....there is no air being moved with just key on. (and normally no fuel being moved either, except in your case, the pump is running, when it shouldn't be!)
maybe an injector buzzing? try wiggling the wires to each injector with key on to see if the "hiss" changes.
yes there are seals under the injectors that can be replaced, but the injectors shouldn't move once the two small allen bolts (on each injector hold down plate) have been tightened.
Ok, one step forward, 2 back. Gonna have to replace the injector seals on 1 & 4. When I was putting them in they didn't seem right, so no surprise there. I swear it's a "hiss" and not a "buzz", but hey, the don't call me LugNut for no reason, lol. Battery is charging now, it's new but super-charger says it was only 25%, so juicing it up. Will check the hiss/buzz later on.

Thanks, Sensei
LN
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,546 Posts
We are getting so close!

Vin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #257
Aloha and Good Morning, Gang....

Ok, battery charged. Turn the key on and the fuel pump activates .... and stays activated. Pretty sure the "hiss" is forced fuel hiss, now getting fuel leakage at Inj#3 so seals are a definite need.

Sensei Spidie4 ... fuel relay as in fusebox relay? Not the fuel pump itself?

Going to have to table this for a bit, family coming for holidays and gotta spend some time on house projects, but that will give me time to order seals and relay. Question about oil pressure, should the gauge register any when the key is in the on position? It's not at the moment.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,382 Posts
Fuel pressure Gauge doesn't register without the engine running (or cranking long enough).

Drive relay (fuel) as in under the rear parcel shelf.
Near the injection ecu there are 2 relays, the main and the drive, and a 8A fuse for the fuel relay.

Usually the drive/fuel relay is the larger, originally a Bosch # 028230001 but as they are dear (centerline actually illustrates the correct Bosch,but that is not what gets sent to you!)
people replace with KAE # 3.304.500 (Kaehler)
or Beck-Arnley # 203-0100 or 2030100

the replacement relays "can" keep the pumps running, not always, but can do
you obviously have one that does...let us know what the relay make/number is after your family time!

FI_ECU.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,687 Posts
No oil pressure will register until the engine is turning, as the distributor drives the oil pump (or other way around?)

Pete
 
241 - 260 of 264 Posts
Top