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(well done Vin!)

Jeff, to test that (once you have cleaned it) remove that plastic cover (that should have a screw securing it normally) and apply power (one of those 9V radio batteries is fine, failing that you can just use 12V car battery) to the 2 exposed terminals. The solenoid should activate.

If it doesn't, undo the tiny screws you see when that plastic gizmo is removed....pull off the end cap and clean up the little plunger...worth doing in any case.

all first pointed out here in Mike's posting:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/415594-vvt-solenoid-really-dead.html
 

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Discussion Starter #202
Cleaned up ok, but still worried about the 3 wires going into the plastic cap. Will test it shortly.

I'm wondering if this was actually "in" previously. Vin said the car would run without it, though maybe have some problems at certain rpm levels? Is that possible that this hasn't been in place for a long time? Just curious based on where it was against the fender-well and the minor tangle of wires that had to be undone to get it out. From it's original "hiding spot" that Vin spotted, it did not reach the housing, the harness wires were wrapped down and under the coolant reservoir. Maybe when whoever took the engine apart they just did that to keep it out of the way.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Serie4, it didn't test well, but that's probably LugNut's fault. I took out the two screws but the cap did not come off ... yet. How hard should i try to separate it? We're talking just the black plastic end-cap separating from the metal, yes?
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Update ...

Thanks for the link, Serie4. I got it all apart once I knew what to do, cleaned, lubed, piston/pin/spring moving smooth. Put back endcap, tested, no luck. Bummer. Guess I gotta go shopping later.

Jeff
 

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We're talking just the black plastic end-cap separating from the metal, yes?
yes. there is likely a little rubber seal that has stuck.
If it works fine with powering it on/off several times, then perhaps just leave it be.

EDIT: OK your post got there first!
 

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Discussion Starter #206
Aloha and Good Morning, Gang....

So relative to the VVT, I've cleaned it and tried the 9volt battery test with no success. How well will the car run without the VVT in it's housing or the bad VVT in the housing? It seems to be a very difficult piece to find online. I'll proceed with putting other things back together in the mean time. (When the rain stops, that is.)

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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How well will the car run without the VVT in it's housing or the bad VVT in the housing? It seems to be a very difficult piece to find online
it'll run OK.
you find them on ebay used, but not cheap....there is one on ebay canada at the moment but close on 200 bucks.

what I would do: when you have it all back together running, then push that pin poking out the cam cover with your finger whilst the engine is idling.....if the engine idle goes all lumpy, then at least you know the cam part of the VVT is working....then you can look to getting the solenoid and housing sorted out (though you still do not know if the electronics in that plastic plug are working!...that you cannot test till it's all connected)

Either put an advert here in the classifieds, or try Larry at Alfa Parts Exchange (APE) in California...I'd get a complete s/h unit, as your bush has gone awol and alone that housing is expensive.

you need to call, they don't do email
http://www.alfapartsexchange.com/main.htm
 

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Don’t know anything at all about this VVT OR SOLENOID, but it’s hard to believe a 9 volt battery can deliver sufficient current to move a mechanical solenoid. .... does this really work? I’d use the car battery to test it ..??
 

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Don’t know anything at all about this VVT OR SOLENOID, but it’s hard to believe a 9 volt battery can deliver sufficient current to move a mechanical solenoid. .... does this really work? I’d use the car battery to test it ..??
yes
apparently the VVT powersource is 8-8.5V:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/762410-post4.html

and several people have used a 9V battery:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/7844137-post10.html

But of course I generally use the car battery, because I can get power off the junction block on the inner fender.

It is also worth the OP trying several times, on/off - on/off ....just because you never know, it might wake up! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #211
Aloha and Good Morning, Gang ...

Serie4.... thanks for that test, I'll have to come back to that once everything else is done and the car "works".

Rich... that discussion thread made my eyes spin, lol. Way over my head, but was interesting to see Vin as a "rookie". hahahaha

Goats.... i wondered that as well.


Not sure any of it's any good anyway, since as Serie4 pointed out the bushing is shot, and as well my concern over the harness wires being so exposed and close to each other at the clip. But it seems like this whole issue is something I can back-burner for now and let my friend, the owner of the car, address later. So again, for now, onward to the injectors and other things to reassemble.

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #212
First bump of the day .... is it possible that on this '87 my injector bolts are allen-head? I have 8 of them from the "box", but no hex-head (like in the pic in Vin's "Dummies" thread).

Also did I read somewhere about "rebuilding" the VVT bushing using a piece of radiator hose?

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #213
Bump 2 ... It appears as if the ground-bolt (left of P4 injector) is broken off in the head. Can I just attach the ground to low-left P4 injector bolt?

Also, I don't have a thermostat-housing gasket in my gasket-box. Is just Blue RTV sufficient?

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
 

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Bump 1:

1. Yes, allen bolts ok for S3

2. Here is a thread that talks about radiator hose as fix for VVT bushing. https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/5854-vvt-oil-leak.html

Bump 2:

1. I don't see why not, but others could chime in here.

2. I didn't have one either, so I made my own out of gasket paper from local parts store and then sprayed with copper sealant. I don't think the Blue RTV would be a bad choice if nothing else.

IMG_3549.JPG

IMG_3550.JPG

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Thanks Vin, yeah I thought about the homemade option as well. Why the copper spray? Just curious and learning.

Jeff
 

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Bump 2 ... It appears as if the ground-bolt (left of P4 injector) is broken off in the head. Can I just attach the ground to low-left P4 injector bolt?

Also, I don't have a thermostat-housing gasket in my gasket-box. Is just Blue RTV sufficient?

Mahalo and Aloha,
Jeff
The top thermostat housing should have a rubber seal around its circumference. No conventional gasket is required.

My grounds are held in place by the two bolts that hold the AAV to the cam cover. You can probably get away with only one bolt for the short term.
 

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Since you didn't add sealant to the head gasket, I suggest that you don't run it with the radiator cap installed. The last thing you need is a pressurized cooling system to force coolant past a marginal gasket into the sump. I sure hope your friend appreciates what you are doing for him.

Good Luck,

Dick
 

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Thanks Vin, yeah I thought about the homemade option as well. Why the copper spray? Just curious and learning.

Jeff
We are talking thermostat to intake manifold correct?

If so, I use the copper spray as a personal preference. I use it where water is involved, like water pump. You can use anything heat resistant but a thin, thin layer.

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Aloha and Good Morning, Gang....

First off ... YYooooo... what's up with this new look? **** I hate when this happens to me, lol. I was barely sufficient on the old format.

Vin ... I just went with Blue ATV on the thermostat-housing to the intake manifold. Figure it can be improved later on.
Rich ... what's the AVV and isn't the cam cover aluminum and bad for grounds? I put two multiple-wire o-ring grounds on the P4 injector low bolt for now. (visible in Pic3)
Dick ... Aloha and thanks for joining the Gang. I was advised that RTV sealant wasn't necessary with the new head gasket (except when using the Reinke(sp?) brand which I didn't use). That whole boat has sailed, lol. You're really saying to run a car without the radiator cap? Seems awfully unusual.

Injectors are in, thermostat-housing attached to intake man. (BlueRTV used), large coolant hose from water pump attached to bottom of Th.H.

Sooo.... Now the "What are these things and where do they go" game....
Pic1:
4 electrical clips ... 2 black, 1 white, 1 orange (damage to be repaired I hope, lol)
Pic 2
4 hoses ... small coolant from bottom of reservoir (top right), cloth braided-cover from out of fender near windshield (middle), low left and right from out of black canister mounted to fender wall. Not shown is the Th.H to radiator hose which I have.

1603451
1603452
1603453


When putting the waterpump-to-Th.H hose on I took my first closeup look at the distributor .... and didn't like what I saw. The Dcap has been off for as long as I've had the car in my driveway (mid-May), don't know how much longer before that, but definitely a while. How bad off am I with pulling it/cleaning it?.

That's all for today ...Mahalo and Aloha, Everyone
Jeff
 

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Here is a picture to help with the hoses. Might help with the electrical connectors, but the hoses, for sure.

lines labelled.jpg


Vin
 
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