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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Folks: I have been lurking on the board and reading up on my new Spider for the past couple of weeks.

According to Marco:
Chassis number ZAR 11541000019364 originally corresponds to an Alfa Romeo Spider 2000 I.E. USA,
manufactured on the 21st February 1984 and
sold on the 14th April 1984 in USA.
The body colour is metallic light blue, with blue leather interiors.
The car is in Arlington VA now.

I basically traded a 50CC scooter and $300 for it.

Right now, it has some running issues (it runs when 2 of the vacuum hoses are clamped off), some rust issues (floors are not too bad, passenger sill is pretty bad) and paint issues (clear coat is separating from base)

I hope to post some pictures of it either later today or over the weekend.

My plan is to see if I can get it running first. Then attack the other issues. I have a new hose set from Hi-Performance and will follow the L-Jet diagnose steps first.

Thanks in advance for all the info on the forum.
(I posted this in the wrong place the first time. Hopefully this is a more appropriate location.)
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Welcome to the board!

You said blue leather, does it have blue interior carpet, blue dash?
Please post some pictures

Have you looked at joining of the Capital Chapter of AROC?
Regards,
F
 

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We're gonna need pics, even ones of the car are good!! The injection system just HATES air leaks. They can be hard to find and there are many threads about them and where to look for them. Check out the tech FAQ for hints and guidance as well as come right back here (after pics) and ask some more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Engine bay and clamps on vacuum hoses...photos

When clamps are on the vacuum lines as shown in photo 2, the car starts and sounds good. If clamps are not there, the car does not start. This was discovered by the PO, not me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New hoses from Hi-Performance

So... I bought a total new set of hoses from Hi-Performance and will start putting them on this week.

Here are photos of all the hose packages
 

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I'm not seeing the clamps, but that's a nice car!

Check the big fat hose that goes from the air filer/meter to the hard plastic pipe on top of the engine closely. They crack and are very hard to see holes.

Ok second pic just showed up. One clamp is on the cold start system and the other is on the hose that goes to the charcoal canister in the fender...I think.

Cold start valve thing can be cleaned. Look in the tech FAQ for info.
 

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Nice looking Spider.

That hose set should help eliminate air/vacuum leaks. L-jet does not tolerate those leaks - aka 'false air'.

While you are at it, I suggest cleaning out the Oil Vapor Separator. It is a black can-shaped item on the right inner fender. When they get clogged up it messes with the sump scavanging. Remove the OVS, clean it out with solvent (brake cleaner spray works well), rinse & repeat.
 

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Yo George!

That's one darn good-looking 1984 Spider Volce!

Hey, wait an minute! What's a Volce ?!?!?!

iPad lit the word up and suggested "voice, vole and Volte". Hmmmm

I should have broken from my tradition and complimented you on adding a signature line, but what fun would that be? I'm sure a PM would have been appreciated, but, see above :).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK - I am going in....

I have most of the vacuum hoses removed. They were in a sorry state.

I have the oil separator out and cleaned it. Air flows freely in/out of all 4 holes.


I am going to remove the plenum (per the instructions here and in the shop manual) and replace the connectors.

I have a question.

What is the best way to disconnect those injector electrical connectors? There is a little wire around the connector. Do you just move that with a screw driver? I'm sure there is a better way to do it, no?

Thanks.
 

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What is the best way to disconnect those injector electrical connectors? There is a little wire around the connector. Do you just move that with a screw driver?
Yes, that is the way. Perhaps there might be a special tool to release the clips but I am not aware of one.

Go gently - the plastic part gets brittle with age & heat.

Sometimes, if you can access the back side of the connector, you can slide your thumb in and push the ends of the wire clips outwards to release them. But you'll also need tough skin to avoid puncture wounds...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
plenum connectors on... question on injector seating...

I got the new plenum connectors on. Did not need to mess with the fuel rail or the injectors, per the instructions.

One of the injectors is loose and the rubber collar is down near the block, and not up against the the flange that holds the injector in. Do I need a new injector, or does the rubber just slide up and down on the injector?

First photo shows the new plenum connectors installed. Second shows the rubber gasket slid down by the block. Third photo shows the gasket (#5) on the injector.

Thanks.
 

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One of the injectors is loose and the rubber collar is down near the block, and not up against the the flange that holds the injector in. Do I need a new injector, or does the rubber just slide up and down on the injector?
There is supposed to be a circlip (#6 - the shop manual calls it a seeger ring) below the rubber ring. The flange (#4) with the two allen head screws then pushes down on the rubber ring to keep the injector pressed into the intake.

I can't tell from your photo if the circlip is there or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah - I just took it off. and there is no circ clip. But I don't think this injector has one. It is sort of shaped like the one below from IAP. The rubber ring seems to sit in the bigish channel on the body.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not too bad for Day 1.

I got the plenum connectors on, the loose injector back in, the plenum reinstalled, and fixed the throttle linkage rubbing on the fuel rail.

Ordered a couple parts from IAP.

Next steps - address the grounds with the hoses off, then install the new hoses.

Thanks for all the help and the great info on the BB.
 

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Nice looking Spider.

That hose set should help eliminate air/vacuum leaks. L-jet does not tolerate those leaks - aka 'false air'.

While you are at it, I suggest cleaning out the Oil Vapor Separator. It is a black can-shaped item on the right inner fender. When they get clogged up it messes with the sump scavanging. Remove the OVS, clean it out with solvent (brake cleaner spray works well), rinse & repeat.

I also will add that you remove and clean out or replace the oil return line from the OVS that goes under the radiator back to the bottom of the dipstick. Gunky oil tends to settle at the lowest part of the hose.

There is also a clear plastic vacuum line from the back of the plenum that goes under the windshield washer reservoir to the altitude sensor; it sometimes pops off and cause rough idling.

Also take the time to remove the 4 front tire well inner splash shields and clean out all the dirt and debris that accumulates behind them.
 
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