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New upper control arm bushings

3245 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  gt601
On my Alfetta Sedan I had noticed that the car had started wandering a bit at higher speeds. I took a look at the suspension and saw that the upper control arm bushes were in pretty sad shape. I decided that I would get the Powerflex bushings that International sells.
At around 5:00 after I got done working on crappy Volvos all day I would "pop" the new bushings in. I had soaked the nuts and bolts down with PB Blaster the day before. I started on the drivers side and within about 45 min I had that side done! Whoopie:cool:
Now goes the passenger side....
After finally getting the upper ball joint to separate, (20 min) I undid the shock and let the tension off the suspension. I went to loosen the bolt holding the bushing in. Got the nut off. and discovered that the bolt was seized in the sleeve of the bushing:mad:. The only way to get in and cut the bushing is with a hack saw blade in a pair of vice grips. I sawed for almost 2 hours straight. I was about ready to start the funeral pire for the 'Fetta! Finally got it out , installed the new bushing and after searching the shop for half an hour for the perfect replacement bolt (I'm a pack rat) I drove the car.
WOW:eek: what a difference!

It sounds better (No rattle/clunk)
It feels better (smoother)
It handles better (Steering is more responsive)

Good investment in my opinion:D

A quick tech note.. I have found that most Alfetta/GTV-6/Milano bushings have a plastic outer coating where they are pressed in. If you take a torch and heat the metal on the outside the bushing will literally fall out. If you then use the torch after to burn the excess plastic from the part the only thing you have to do is wipe the ashes out with a rag and install the new bush. No presses or any of that crap. The poly bushings are usually two piece and are pretty easy to get in using the pressure of a vice to help start the insertion.

I'll keep y'all posted as to how long they seem to last and any funky noises.

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For the Milano (I assume the Alfetta is the same) the poly bushing for the upper control arm from Performatek is a much better design. It includes poly "washers" that prevents the two halfs of the actual poly bushing from backing out of the control arm. Some time ago I used the one from IAP and it backed out - #$^%$#. Had to take it apart and find some suitable washers to stick in there. Maybe IAP has improved their design by now...???

Attached is a pick of the one from Performatek I just put on my Milano.



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Interesting... I hope mine don't do that. I can see that they could do that now that i think about it. There is nothing to keep them from doing that. If they do I'll pitch a big one. Not that IAP will do any thing about it. I have had some issues in the past with them not standing behind their products.

The IAP ones backed out on my Milano and I have heard of others too. Though, I have also heard of at least one case where they didn't back out. Lets hope yours make it the 2nd case ;) Regardless, the ones from Performatek are clearly a better design, which I learned the hard way...

On the front suspension many people overlook the bushings on the lower A-arms. It does require removal of the A-arm and a press, so a little more involved, but it can make a difference as well. Finally, I like to convert the castor rod bushing to ball joint.

Great info. guys - my front end is coming apart this winter - my biggest concerns are probably the lower A-arm bushes and getting the ride height just right.

Been book marking the links and Greg G's site so I'm prepared when the time comes.:)


Great to see that you are doing all this work to my future sedan!!:rolleyes:
As soon as you're ready to dump it (real cheap) I'll be waiting, I might even be convinced to trade your sedan for my OEM Alfetta/GTV6 hatch including gasket........I might throw in a couple mudflaps if I can find 'em! :eek:

I had to buy a sawzall to get a bushing out of my Alfetta GT, not fun! What else is on the agenda for the Sedan?


I just did a FULL rebuild on my undercarriage. On important item on the torsion bars is to mark the splines on the bars to each end to replace properly - and do permanent markings. They are also handed - RH & LH. There should be markings or color marks to designate each. The A-arm bushings aren't too bad to R & R with a press.
Great info. guys - my front end is coming apart this winter - my biggest concerns are probably the lower A-arm bushes and getting the ride height just right.

Been book marking the links and Greg G's site so I'm prepared when the time comes. :)

Better start spraying PB blaster now so you won't have to use the hack saw. :D ;) I just did a sway bar and end link replacement on my '85 BMW and had to cut out a few bolts. It's worth it though, I love the older cars. :D
What else is on the agenda?
How about a race to see who can reach 135 mph first? I'll bet a spider can do it first:D

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