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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks. I just got my new old alfa running (sort of). My in-laws wanted to make room in their garage and the car hadn't run since 2000-ish so I took it over.
1. I drained and replaced fuel
2. Borrowed a battery, turned it over, but no spark. Quickly traced to flywheel sensors reading open circuit. Replaced both of those with new ones, and whammo, it turned over and started running for 3-5 seconds...I figured it was running off the CSI and the FI ECU wasn't waking up. The Ignition ECU had to be waking up though, as there was clearly a spark for the engine to get going under CSI.
3. The voltage is lower then 10.5V while cranking. Rather than trace all wires, clean grounds, etc. etc., my quick test was to jump off of my truck. It fired up and I had it idle for 30 minutes or so. Soooooo.....I figure I need to fix the "low voltage problem". There's no rush on my end, so that's a battle for another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
(getting my post count up so I can post a link for y'all)

I have Greg Gordon's tune up document and Papajam's schematic. Both have been invaluable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Before I did the jump test, I did do the following checks:

Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS): @70F was 2.3kOhm
Flywheel Sensors: 1.1k (both replaced)
Time Temp sensor (TTS): 37 Ohm btwn pins
Cold Start Ignition (CSI): sprays (as I suspected)
Aux Air Valve (AAV): opens and closes (freezer and oven test)

I assumed that because the ignition ICU had to be awake, that the voltage at the FI ECU would be fine too (apparently not).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
close up of the top.
BTW, right now the plan is to clean things up, getting it running fine, and use it as a summer vacation car. No full-up restorations yet.
 

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As crazy as it sounds, I would try 3 in 1 oil on the soft top. I cannot recall who suggested this trick, but it worked for me. Always try a small area first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A battery is pulled low because of high current and resistance of wires and connectors. Basic Ohms Law stuff.

Two things:

1. I wonder if the starter is working harder than it should because it's been sitting for nearly 20 years, hence drawing more current. Similarly, The engine hasn't turned in nearly 20 years, so I suppose that load is higher too. Any thoughts out there about current loading with the long idle engine and starter?

2. The wire path to the ECUs may be long, but as low(er) current devices, I wouldn't imagine voltage drops across connections and wires to the ECUs would be significant. Curious to know your experiences.

It seems (to me) that the trick is to minimize load, and minimize resistive losses along the starter circuit. What say you?

My interest is to increase the crank voltage.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK. Phwew, up to ten posts, so here's the link to the idle. It ain't pretty, but neither would I be after a twenty year slumber.
What should I be looking at now?
 

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Air leaks in intake hoses n dirty plugs.
Low Current draw could be poor engine ground or dirty connectors on major components ie alternator n starter. If old gas in system, maybe injectors are gummy. Could pull n see how they are spraying. Or hop in n blast it up road. May just need to clear out the acorns.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll be getting silicone tube kit from HPSI shorty.

Also inferred today the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel. I'll try rocking it back and forth in fourth gear to hopefully free it. (BTW, the wheels needed a little persuasion to get moving.)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm more of a boat person than a car person, and am wondering if anyone has a set-up two batteries (like on boats) - house and start?
I've been reading so much about grounds and battery voltage to ECUs during start, I'm wondering if anyone has added a relay to the ignition and a charge controller or auto-charging relay, with a second battery?
Sounds kind of crazy, but I'm not wild about this >10.5 V while cranking business. Anyone?
 

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I'll be getting silicone tube kit from HPSI shorty.

Also inferred today the clutch plate is rusted to the flywheel. I'll try rocking it back and forth in fourth gear to hopefully free it. (BTW, the wheels needed a little persuasion to get moving.)
you can buy the silicone tubing for a fraction of what HPSI sells it for and you can actually have enough to do more hoses...... around 30 bucks. If you like I will find my hose list and link...
 

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Again, maybe s good romp will clean off rusty rotors, clutch n pads. N blow off carbon from plugs. Hoses just need to be solid n clamped tight.

Computer needs solid output from alternator to run n start. 10v isn’t cutting it. Check connections, cables n belt. Easier to check w air filter box lid out of the way.
 

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The white spots on your top just look like mold to me. I would try washing it with a stiff-bristled scrub brush to get rid of them, but the correct solution is just to replace the top entirely.
 

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3. The voltage is lower then 10.5V while cranking. Rather than trace all wires, clean grounds, etc. etc., my quick test was to jump off of my truck. It fired up and I had it idle for 30 minutes or so. Soooooo.....I figure I need to fix the "low voltage problem". There's no rush on my end, so that's a battle for another day.
easy to clean main grounds (forget that twin battery solution!)

clean the grounds, even if they look ok, undo, remove, clean, replace, protect.

The main ground is the negative battery cable bolted to the trunk floor. Remove, sand it clean, replace with some copper grease.
ECU grounds: there is a bundle of several black wires bolted to the rear of the cylinder head, passenger side, again remove, clean replace, protect.
The main copper earth braid wire under the car, transmission>chassis, passenger side: this is a later spider but basically the same thing: https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/129079-post2.html

then there is the main 'power' connection block (big red starter wires going to/from it) which is a small black block in the engine compartment, on driver's side inner fender. Check and clean all connections.

when all that is done recheck the crank voltage....you need about 11,0 volts.
 

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Can also put volt meter to alternator, then check again at battery when running. Read in another thread needs to “flash”? First, not exactly sure what that means think it was to let it run for a bit first before checking.
 
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