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My original top is absolutely cactus. I have a new Robbins Top for my 75 Spider.

I was wanting to have a go at installing the top myself - am I mad and leave it to a professional that has done it time & time again or could a knucklehead like me install it so that it operates properly and doesn't leak etc.

Is this a task worthwhile attempting even though it might take me 3 or 4 weekends ?. Has anyone done this with success.
 

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Did a couple by myself. toughest part was the rubber gasket area in the front. I had to replace the metal strip holding the gasket and sliding the gasket all the way across in the channel was a tough thing. A few weekends would be a good timeline to get it correct. Last one gave me a couple of fits with wrinkles on the sides but it was correctable. If you do replace it yourself pay attention to how it comes apart around the door windows. I will probably do one more next year then outsource for a few hundred buck they can do it faster.

Joe
 

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Pay attention to how the old top is put on. Look at the new top before you take the old one off and compare how it attaches. Always pay attention to centering the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pay attention to how the old top is put on. Look at the new top before you take the old one off and compare how it attaches. Always pay attention to centering the top.
This is very helpful and so are all the other comments.

My top appears to be the original, so back to 1975. The old top is actually leather and has shrunk so much that I can't even raise it passed half way. Has anyone ever seen a leather soft top.

I'm glad you mention studing the old top in place since I was going to rip it off quick smart and get into re-doing the frame. It's pretty good as is but I just thought it might be a good time to re-paint it. What's the best option here, paint or powder coat.

My new top is still packed up in the box - should I take it out and open it up and allow it to smooth out the kinks - will leaving it in the sun help in any way.

Also, are there any basic tools or products that I should have at hand before starting to make sure I'm properly equiped to tackle the task.
 

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Also, are there any basic tools or products that I should have at hand before starting to make sure I'm properly equiped to tackle the task.
You need anassortment of Italian curse words. Should include appropriate
hand gestures.

The numerous small nuts on the studs attaching the rear edge of the top to the body usually rust and become very difficult to remove. Apply a few drops of rust penetrant (PB Blaster or Kroil or the like) every day for a week or so before you attempt to remove them. If the studs break off they are not easy to replace.

 

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My new top is still packed up in the box - should I take it out and open it up and allow it to smooth out the kinks - will leaving it in the sun help in any way.
Yes, I would unpack it to allow the folds to smooth out. If it is a fabric top, sitting in the sun won't do much - it may help to soften the plastic rear window, but won't do anything for the fabric.
 

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Yes, I would unpack it to allow the folds to smooth out. If it is a fabric top, sitting in the sun won't do much - it may help to soften the plastic rear window, but won't do anything for the fabric.
My experience with fabric tops was different on my 2000 Boxster. Once I completed the install, I couldn't fasten the top to the header it was so tight. Ittook two of us to fasten it initially. From what I'd read, the initial tough to fasten issue was perfectly normal but it sure had me worried.

A couple of days in the Florida summer sun and I could fasten the top by myself, if I used two hands and warmed up first.

Now, months later, the top fastens as easy as the original.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In preparation for this "mammoth " task, I was wondering if I need to have any special tools to make the job easier or do I need to have a pot of contact adhesive ready to go or a good selection of screw drivers or small sockets etc.

Frankly, don't have a clue, but I don't want to be stranded in the process and have to tools down and hit a tool shop to buy stuff - that's my point. What about lighting, will this be an advantage. Is any making involved.

I note dghii's comments about tightness - should the top be secured closed before it is fully secured ?.
 

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Not familiar with Robins top for an Alfa spider. Check the rear attachment first for pre made holes for the rear attachment. If the top does not have the holes already made and you are expected to add the holes yourself, return the top and buy one with the holes already in the top. I have seen very cheap tops where you are expected to add the holes yourself. Installing an Alfa spider top is not that hard if the rear attachment holes are already there. But if you are expected to add the holes yourself, the difficulity factor just increased 100%. I have an Alfa factory top installation booklet if you need factory instructions. I don't want to sell it, but I will make you a copy if you need it. Cost would be only copy costs plus snail mailing.

Only tools you need are simple hand tools, good pair of sissors, and a sharp box cutter. I recommend 3-M weather seal for adhesive. Black for a black top, yellow for all other colors. You can get 3-M weather seal in tube form at any decent auto parts store.
 

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Not familiar with Robins top for an Alfa spider. Check the rear attachment first for pre made holes for the rear attaachment. If the top does not have the holes already made and you are expected to add the holes yourself, return the top and buy one with the holes already in the top. I have seem very cheap tops where you are expected to add the holes yourself. Installing an Alfa spider top is not that hard if the rear attachment holes are already there. But if you are expected to add the holes yourself, the difficulity factor just increased 100%. I have an Alfa factory top installation booklet if you need factory instructions. I don't want to sell it, but I will make you a copy if you need it. Cost would be only copy costs plus snail mailing.

Only tools you need are simple hand tools, good pair of sissors, and a sharp box cutter. I recommend 3-M weather seal for adhesive. Black gof a black top, yellow for all other colors. You can get 3-M weather seal in tube from at any decent auto parts store.
I agree with vf31rhill 100% having the holes at the back already punched through the top will make the job much easier . Do some research on this BB there are lots of posts on what to do and what not to do . It is not beyond the capability of somebody with a little skill. And no special tools are needed .I know how daunting a job can look but it is just a lot of little steps. Sorry one special tool is needed and that is a pop rivet gun ( blind riveter ). Can't emphasis the importance of research enough. I have done one spider top and I just wish it had the pre punched holes , but it turned out ok. (took me 2 days) Regards John
 

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The EZ-ON top I installed had the holes punched which made the job much easier. Also, I can almost guarantee you're going to break some studs. You'll need a rivet stud tool to replace the broken ones. If you take it to a shop, make sure they have that tool and don't just try and drill and use a sheet metal screw.

It's not a difficult job, just tedious. You must read the instructions carefully for full understanding and have the tools and supplies on hand.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/2204-convertible-top-installation-issues.html
 
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