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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening, new GTV owner here. Picked up a project that is 90% done and I am hoping to finish the remaining 10% plus more.

The first issue I am having is the car is almost undrivable, it veers all over but mostly to the left. Currently, there are 15" rims with 205/50 tires. I also have a 16" set I am going to put on with 185/60 tires.

The passenger side on the rear end is closer to the fender than the driver's side (LHD car) by roughly 1/2". It does have

Some of the suspension modifications:
Koni shocks with Alfaholics quick steer arms and a front sway bar

I am taking it in for a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow.
 

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Rear suspension trunnion bushes need replacing.

16" tyres may make this car worse to control. She was designed for 14" wheels back in the old days
Pete
 

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Slight correction

"90% done, 90% yet to go".

What you've described hints at a combination of unwise planning and lack of experience by the previous owner.

Fix the rear end first. Unless the basic structure was previously compromised, the rear axle has been installed incorrectly.

Second, but while sorting out the rear end installation, confirm that the four bushings, one at each end of the track rods, are NEW, and in good condition. I have learned that a self-determining direction of a 105 chassis is usually the track rod bushings.

I question the value of quick steering in a street car. Do you intend more street or track? Don't compromise one for the other. Never have your mistress in the same town as your spouse.

Rear axle lateral placement is a combination of the central load triangle mount and the triangle end washers and cushions.

A well sorted GTV chassis is magic. It does not auto-steer on its own. It goes where you intend.
 

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Sorry, yes and the trailing arm bushes.

Lately I believe my brain is taking a holiday ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rear suspension trunnion bushes need replacing.

16" tyres may make this car worse to control. She was designed for 14" wheels back in the old days
Pete
They are brand new, the entire car was rebuilt and has less than 400 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Slight correction

"90% done, 90% yet to go".

What you've described hints at a combination of unwise planning and lack of experience by the previous owner.

Fix the rear end first. Unless the basic structure was previously compromised, the rear axle has been installed incorrectly.

Second, but while sorting out the rear end installation, confirm that the four bushings, one at each end of the track rods, are NEW, and in good condition. I have learned that a self-determining direction of a 105 chassis is usually the track rod bushings.

I question the value of quick steering in a street car. Do you intend more street or track? Don't compromise one for the other. Never have your mistress in the same town as your spouse.

Rear axle lateral placement is a combination of the central load triangle mount and the triangle end washers and cushions.

A well sorted GTV chassis is magic. It does not auto-steer on its own. It goes where you intend.
The previous owner did a pretty thorough rebuild of the entire car. He just got too old to finish it.

Any ideas on what to look at with the rear axle? Googling the forum it appears some have had this problem before but I have not found a cause.

Track rod bushings are new, from what I looked at all have been replaced.

This will be a 1000% street car.
 

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I would pull the rear suspension apart and check the POs work. You have play in the rear somewhere that is causing your issues.

While there replace the trailing arm bushes with rubber, unless you want to suffer vibration issues, etc.

And yes a proper wheel alignment. Note our old cars confuse some places. Might want an old school place, with grey haired mechanics
Pete
 

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they don't like it if the rear suspension is too stiff
 

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That the PO did a 1000% job doesn't mean it was 1000% correct.
 
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This will be a 1000% street car.
Then lose those quick steer arms and modern wheels & tires. A 50-year old GTV's suspension was never designed for larger wheels and low-aspect tires. The compliance of a chubby tire contributes to the ride quality and handling.

Agree that the rear trunion arm is the probably source of the immediate problem. Adding those flat spacers is fairly simply; if you slice the spacers, you don't even have to remove the arm from the car. There are threads here on the BB about how to do this.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Then lose those quick steer arms and modern wheels & tires. A 50-year old GTV's suspension was never designed for larger wheels and low-aspect tires. The compliance of a chubby tire contributes to the ride quality and handling.

Agree that the rear trunion arm is the probably source of the immediate problem. Adding those flat spacers is fairly simply; if you slice the spacers, you don't even have to remove the arm from the car. There are threads here on the BB about how to do this.
Thank you for this info. The car came with 3 sets of rims, 14", 15" and 16". I will ditch the 16" and continue my research on the best tire size, reading about how a wider tire may not be the best.
 

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I've had many Alfas over the years. The new BB programming won't allow me to add to my still growing list.

However, you may note a comment in my "signature" about "no more 115s for me". If I'm ever allowed to add to my signature area, I will revise that statement.

Once you get rid of the poly bushings and sort out what might be incorrectly assembled, and remove the quick steering hardware.

1. Ensure Konis are set full soft.
2. 14" wheels with Pirelli CN36 185/70-14 tires

What springs are on the car?

My 77 Spider with the above items, plus Eibach variable rate springs, and much lightened bumper retrograde, is a joy to drive.
 

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Point of order: there's no need to replace the poly trailing arm bushings. Polyurethane isn't solid or something, it flexes like rubber. Depending what brand is in there it might be a little stiffer than stock, depends on the specific type of poly they used, but polyurethane trailing arm bushings work fine and aren't your problem.

Guys here are ready to have you rebuild the whole freakin' suspension. Fix the trunnion bar issues, that's your main problem. Then drive the car and work from there.

For the record, while you're adding the washers to your trunnion bar, also make sure the conical bushings (9) are properly installed and in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Point of order: there's no need to replace the poly trailing arm bushings. Polyurethane isn't solid or something, it flexes like rubber. Depending what brand is in there it might be a little stiffer than stock, depends on the specific type of poly they used, but polyurethane trailing arm bushings work fine and aren't your problem.

Guys here are ready to have you rebuild the whole freakin' suspension. Fix the trunnion bar issues, that's your main problem. Then drive the car and work from there.

For the record, while you're adding the washers to your trunnion bar, also make sure the conical bushings (9) are properly installed and in good shape.
All bushings came from Alfaholics, I have the receipts.

While I am back there the rear end sits 1" lower than the front, I see spacers sold to raise the front. Should I add those also?

I added Conical bushing also, just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've had many Alfas over the years. The new BB programming won't allow me to add to my still growing list.

However, you may note a comment in my "signature" about "no more 115s for me". If I'm ever allowed to add to my signature area, I will revise that statement.

Once you get rid of the poly bushings and sort out what might be incorrectly assembled, and remove the quick steering hardware.

1. Ensure Konis are set full soft.
2. 14" wheels with Pirelli CN36 185/70-14 tires

What springs are on the car?

My 77 Spider with the above items, plus Eibach variable rate springs, and much lightened bumper retrograde, is a joy to drive.
'
Stock rear springs and Koni Sport front and rear springs
 
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