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Discussion Starter #21
I inspected rotor and cap yesterday and even replaced them with used, but know to function, parts. Nothing...

The external insulation of that wire is damaged at the connector! I didn't think too much of it as the damage isn't new. I think I might even have a spare. Is tonight the night??
 

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Discussion Starter #22
No.

Have spares, both are two different versions... I should have a third but it is unaccounted for at the moment.

I wouldn't mind having a look at that photo of yours, gmjohns.


I am "this" far from pulling parts from the black car...
 

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The easiest solution is to isolate the wires with electrical tape if a new connector isn't available. I have been running mine for a year taped up without a problem. This will work as long as they terminate in the connector. Just cut the tape into small narrow pieces and wrap the ground. You can use a small screwdriver to separate the wires. I'm guessing you have the old style bosch connector that is no longer available? (small black rectangular with clips?) The 2 wires will go into two holes on the back of that connector. Just pull them apart (gently) enough to get tape around the ground and you should be good. There are setting type gel products that you can use to isolate the wires but don't use silicone as it promotes corrosion. Meanwhile, I will dig through my photos as the car is at the body shop. I hope this helps and you will know right away if this is the culprit
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My spares turned out to be a one pin and a three pin, which I find annoying as at least one of them should be from a Milano.

The offending part?
 

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I believe what appears to be one wire exiting the insulation is actually two. I am not positive but if you want to remove the insulation a little higher up I think you will find an insulated core wire with a ground wire outside of that. The problem is the 2 wires become entangled there at the connector so the idea is to isolate them from each other. Does anyone else have any experience with this later connector? Sorry I can't be more help.
 

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Try digging through the exposed wire and you should see another insulated wire inside of that. There lies the problem. You want the 2 seperate to the plug
 

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I once had a problem with bad connections in the Bosch box at the other end of that green wire, drilled it open and resoldered everything in it and all was good. That GTV6 looks nice you shouldn't part it out unless it is rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks.

Nothing is getting parted out but I am tempted to try some components from the black GTV6 out on this new one (which is actually older), just to verify that nothing else is broken.

One of my spare distributors does have the same socket confirming that I should also have one such wire harness. But where is it??
 

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It sounds very much like my new 75/Milano. I was battling with it for two weeks until I isolated the problems. Are the plugs black? Pull the little vacuum hose off the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator and if fuel comes out, the regulator is stuffed and you will need a new one. When they are like that they pour neat fuel into the plenum. The second problem was the replacement AFM I fitted turned out to be faulty. When I put the old one back on, the engine fired up and ran like a champ. It drove me mental until then. At least I sorted and checked every possible thing, including getting the injectors rebuilt and tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I replaced the plugs earlier this week. They were near new Golden Lodge, slighty sooted but not terribly so. Having heard little good about this brand I but in new NGKs I had around for the black car.

[Edit]I have confirmed valve timing also so that is not it. Fresh battery is making good RPM on starter.[/EDIT]

The main reasons I got this car was that the black car's engine is out for rebuild, there is a stock but non-original-to-the-car engine in it now, and I felt like I needed something drivable while seeing to that. It is funny how these things work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well hello there...



But no. Still no spark downstream of distributor. Working theory is that ignition module is bad or not getting enough voltage/current.
 

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Pic didn't come through.

Yeah, the Bosch ignition amplifier module under the coil can go out. Do you have one on the other car you can swap in?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I don't like how images work on this site. I want to embed them in the text, not tack them on at the end.

I don't have one exactly the same but a few others. I'll need to have a closer look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
We are back to occasional signs of life but still no start. I am starting to seriously doubt my sanity but after checking everything once more and making sure markings line up it's still as if ignition timing is 180 degrees off.

I have found though that reference markings on the distributors of the two cars are different. Even though taking this into account I am not finding my way back to where it was a week ago.
 

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I think the GTV6 is same as the Milano/75 but can't remember for sure... On the Milano there is a notch cut in the casing of the distributor that the rotor should be pointing at (or near depending on advance) when the engine is at TDC, easy to check to see if you are good or 180 off.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yes, same but different. Or mine is a mix of thing which shouldn't be mixed. See notch at yellow arrow. It's at the position of the green arrow on the black car and on slide 34 of the workshop manual found here. I haven't taken it apart completely for a look inside yet, is the position of the connector a clue to something?
 

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Not sure, I can't remember how close my reference mark was to the cap clip. I went and looked at the same manual page for the US cars and it doesn't even mention the reference mark, it just shows the rotor pointing towards #1 cylinder.

If the car was running mostly OK with however it is set now then that probably isn't the main issue for the no start, did you try turning it to make sure it was tight and not moving on its own?

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #40
It was running but very roughly. After calibrating ignition with ignition light gun it ran perfectly, only not at all the day after. I can't find any play in the distributor shaft and the distributor housing does not move when lock nut is tightened.

Problem solving this makes my head hurt and had it not been running so well the Sunday before last I am afraid it would have been on it's way back to the seller by now.

Just kidding, but only a little...
 
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