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Discussion Starter #1
Hi dear friends. Yes, it's me, Veronica! We're always so busy over here, but critical at the moment is the climate control. Noticed in cold weather the heat wasn't working, and now in the warm weather, neither is the A/C. We replaced the stepper motor when we first got the car (HOW LONG AGO WAS THAT? dunno, but BEFORE 2005 for shore :love:). Is there ANYTHING else that could be wrong????? Am not looking forward to another stepper motor replacement.

Love you all!

V
 

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So what does work, the fan motor speeds, the dash air direction/flow buttons, econ, auto, recirculation and off/on buttons?
 

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I think so. Will need to confirm, but I think so, only air temp setting doesn't respond...
 

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When you did the stepper gears, did you also insert the little reinforcing bushing on the air distribution drum shaft?
 

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I think so. Will need to confirm, but I think so, only air temp setting doesn't respond...
Look through little square door in glove box opening that has tire pressure decal to see if temp lever moves when raising lowering temp with temp buttons. If it moves and air temp readings change on a/c display stepper working. You may have a broken or disconnected flapper door arm at blower motor housing behind false firewall.
 

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When you did the stepper gears, did you also insert the little reinforcing bushing on the air distribution drum shaft?
SERIOUSLY? You think I can remember that? I can't remember what I had for dinner last night!!!!!!!
 

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Look through little square door in glove box opening that has tire pressure decal to see if temp lever moves when raising lowering temp with temp buttons. If it moves and air temp readings change on a/c display stepper working. You may have a broken or disconnected flapper door arm at blower motor housing behind false firewall.
THANK YOU! Husband may disappear tomorrow so I will be free to work on his car. Will check and get back to you!
 

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"SERIOUSLY? You think I can remember that? I can't remember what I had for dinner last night!!!!!!!"

Well, sure. You do know that as one gets on, one tends to remember things and activities from years ago, but quickly forget anything from yesterday, such as dinner, lol. I have that trouble anyway these days, but remember my college student number and the BMC cam number I had installed in my Downton Mini, back in the 60's.
 

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Run the self test to check for fault codes.

Total failure of temperature control (as opposed to poor control) will be the lever arm on the air blend flap broken. This failure is purely mechanical and the ACC will display no fault codes.

If some variation of temperature occurs then likely a sensor failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone! Carried the husband over to the Portland area to work on his farm there, and now I can devote myself to his 164. Will report back when I have data.

V
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Steve - I FINALLY located the lever arm. The air temp readings change but the lever is NOT moving. I'm assuming it's that very slender rod which is held in place by a circular clip. Hard to see until you know where to look! I'm accustomed to the stepper motor making clicking sounds when the engine powers up and one starts fiddling with the climate controls, and there's none of that. Also can't remember if that clicking was a sign of impending death. We did this job when we first got the car, lo so many years ago! We have the video, but not looking forward to doing it again.
 

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So is the lever full forward (cold) or full rearward (heat)? Is electrical connector in glove box tire decal door connected? I guess if air flow from defrost to dash to floor working connector must be connected? If full heat setting or near full rearward you can try to push forward on stepper lever in glove box access with power on and temp full low.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lever is full forward. Is it possible to "remove" the metal bracket that holds the big white square electrical connector which is right in front of the lever arm? I see the black plastic thing to push on to release it but it doesn't want to come out and I don't want to create more problems...I was going to try inserting a "hook" and pull back on the lever, with heat setting on full...right thoughts? Also wondering if there is a lube point in there, a little silicon spray applied in the right spot?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lever is full forward. Is it possible to "remove" the metal bracket that holds the big white square electrical connector which is right in front of the lever arm? I see the black plastic thing to push on to release it but it doesn't want to come out and I don't want to create more problems...I was going to try inserting a "hook" and pull back on the lever, with heat setting on full...right thoughts? Also wondering if there is a lube point in there, a little silicon spray applied in the right spot?
So, I'm exploring things on the parts car I have, before I destroy anything on my husband's!
 

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Full forward is cool. Where are you, so do you need heat this time of the year?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Full forward is cool. Where are you, so do you need heat this time of the year?
BUT the cool is not working...just blows average air, I would say. Unfortunately the system is still R-12...the parts car is R-134, was thinking of swapping parts around. Still haven't read the recommended tutorials on that.
 

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So does compressor clutch engage/click when you push AUTO button on A/C panel? If not system probably low on R12. For a conversion to R134a do not go to parts cars for conversion parts go to internet after you read Roadtrip's tutorial on how to do conversion.
 
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