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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Reading all the threads about coolant in oil I have decided that I need to try to retorque heads. Because when I have changed my oil pan I have seen a lot of coolant in oil.
The problem is that I am not a mechanic and need detailed directions. :(

If someone done it before and has pictures I would greatly appreciate if you can tell me the step-by-step order of actions that I have to perform. If it is possible to send a couple of pictures, it would be even better, because I always have hard time finding stuff that is described. Also, which tools I should use?

Hope I am not asking for too much. I just love my alfa very much and want to cure it.

Sincerely,
Serge




 

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Hope I am not asking for too much. I just love my alfa very much and want to cure it.

Sincerely,
Serge
Hmmm,.... That's what you said yesterday on your thread pleading for help with the brake pads, and then you insulted those who tried to help you... Hope this time you'll be a bit more appreciative when people post...

Best regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wasn't going to insult anyone, and if it was understood that way, my apologies.
What is $5 for someone who earns at least $50000/year, and what is $5 for someone who has nothing, but thousands of dept in student loans. I will tell you: dozen of eggs, gallon of milk and bread - 3 days of food for me. If I was asked for discount, I would still give it. May be I am not right, but I think at least I can be understood.
 

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Serge,
I can certainly empathize with you, as I too was a very poor student, and you may very well come across some of my older posts where you will see the similarity. There was nothing wrong with you asking for a discount, and I wasn't referring to that post, but no need to comment any further. Your apology and clarification are more than sufficient and appreciated.

Do an advanced search for "head gasket" for posts/threads by BB userid "Alfisto Steve". His answers are very complete, and it isn't easy to reach the back bolts...

Best regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks, Zunige. I will try to look for it...

This is what I found so far:
It depends on whether or not you are handy with tools and car work. Sounds like you've dug into the car a little, so not too much of a problem. Should take a couple of hours of fiddling if you are car handy, half a day if you are not. You will need allen wrenches and a torque wrench, among other basic tools.

The front head is easy access, and the cam cover comes off with little effort. The rear head access is more difficult, and you will have to first remove the air collector box atop it, with or without the throttle body. The clamps which hold the rubber intake sleeves going to the collector box can be loosened using a Sears tool, and the box slipped back from the sleeves after the appropriate bolts are removed. The chromed intake ducts and the rubber sleeves do not need to be removed. The cam cover can then be removed with a little effort.

The tricky parts are reinstalling the rear cam cover and then the collector box, as you have to get everything lined up again, esp the gasket.

The head nuts can be loosened (about a complete turn), oiled, and tightened one at a time, torqued to about 78 lb-ft in a crisscross pattern starting from the center nuts working alternately outward to the ends of the head. Personally, I took my 91S to about 80, but many don't like it that high. Worked for me.

Do not overtorque any of the bolts for the airbox and cam covers. They take very little, relatively speaking. I would start at hand snug tight for those bolts. Then go back and torque them to ~6-7 lb-ft.

good luck,
__________________
Del

Do you guys by any chance know what Sears tool is he talking about?
 

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1991 164L
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164 12v head torque and retorque

You have to remove intake plenum and at least one or two chrome tubes over rear valve cover bolts. Once you have both valve covers off loosen one nut at a time squirt oil under nut and washer and retorque in proper sequence to about 80 ft lbs as shown here in info from shop manual.

As for removing intake, two intake tubes and valve covers start reading section/page 00-42 to 00-44 starting at 10 Valve Clearance Check and Adjustment and then go to page 00-48 11 Cylinder Head Tightening. If you are careful you can leave brake booster hose and accelerator cable hooked up and sort of rotate intake around enough to get rear valve cover off. There maybe a grounding strap on intake if it is on rubber mounts and not bolted directly to valve cover (earlier models).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, Steve. I actually have CD with manual.
Is the whole procedure described there. I have been lo0king through it, but may be I couldn't see it.
Thanks
 

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1991 164L
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Thanks, Zunige. I will try to look for it...


Do you guys by any chance know what Sears tool is he talking about?
If clamps holding rubber couplings for chrome tubes to intake are not regular hose clamps that only need just need a straight slot screwdriver to loosen you may need a special tool or a set of end cutters to unlock special clamps.
 

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1991 164L
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Thanks, Steve. I actually have CD with manual.
Is the whole procedure described there. I have been lo0king through it, but may be I couldn't see it.
Thanks
See my edited post 6 above.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Steve. I will start working on it this Saturday and hopefully everything will work fine.
Last question: how long this procedure will approximately take?
Also, how hard is water pump replacement and how much time it takes?
I have found new water pump for around $55, do you think it's fine?
RockAuto Parts Catalog
 

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1991 164L
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Thanks Steve. I will start working on it this Saturday and hopefully everything will work fine.
Last question: how long this procedure will approximately take?
Also, how hard is water pump replacement and how much time it takes?
I have found new water pump for around $55, do you think it's fine?
RockAuto Parts Catalog
Not a bad price but just the tip of the iceberg you need to understand to change water pump you need to change timing belt and you need a lot of parts and tools on hand to do the job correctly You need to see this other post of mine on doing timing belt and water pump: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164...g-alfa-164-12v-v6-timing-belt-water-pump.html and http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164...nging-164-cam-pulley-oil-rings-oil-seals.html
 

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Don't forget to open the coolant system reservoir when doing the head retorque. You want any overpressure there to be relieved so it doesn't force coolant into the engine. Take the cap off the reservoir and this problem is mostly avoided. Some folks squeeze some of the big rubber parts to force air out and then replace the cap. When they let go of the rubber hose, they have a very slight vacuum in the coolant system.

Michael
 
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