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Discussion Starter #1
They have a single pin that I can see, which protrudes thru the skin. But. O speed nut or retaining clip.

So I assume they are glued on.

I tried pushing in that rear pin, which only succeeded in bending it over. I was able to get two very thin plastic putty knives under the edges of the emblem. Enough for me to dribble 3M adhesive remover behind them. After three sessions of dribbling they are just as tight in the body as the beginning.

If these are cloisonné I should be able to use my heat gun on them to soften the adhesive, right?

The rest of the disassembly was so easy....

John
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The platic putty knives I used have sharp edges, but were blunted when they reached the glue. I’m going to try acetone next and then I’ll go with a sharp metal putty knife. My big soldering gun is kaput and my precision soldering irons are only 60w.

Thanks for the idea.
 

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Take your thinnest putty knife and sand it with a DA to make ti thinner sharpen the front edge and round the corners.
The inductor comment was if you have access to one. Its a great tool for Stuck bolts taking off stickers and anywhere you need to heat metal.
 

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Get about a 12'-18" of 24 ga galvanized steel wire with both ends wrapped around suitable pull handles. Then pull the wire back-forth behind the badge like you're flossing your teeth. It should cut throught the adhesive with minimal damage to tge badge... do not pry with a putty knife or blade unless you don't mind the badge getting bent.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, after an hour of dickin around I finally got the C-pillar emblems off.
I hope I can make a useful reply that'll help others

(1) Emblems have 2 pins, aligned vertically on the back of the C-pillar emblem (see picture #1)
(2) You can see the upper pin if you peel back the headlining material, but the lower pin is behind an inner layer of sheet metal (picture #2).
(3) don't bother trying to push on the pins. They aren't strong enough and will likely just bend over and/or break off.

I do not know if my emblems are factory applied, but mine were held on with a thick adhesive. It could be a closed cell double sided foam tape but the edge was irregular so I'll bet it was a caulked adhesive. The adhesive itself is not THAT strong, but there's enough surface area that you would probably warp the C-Pillar metal if you tried pulling them straight off. Removal requires you to cut thru most of that adhesive. Picture #1 shows the adhesive
on the back of the emblem.

Note that the majority of the adhesive is located in a vertical area from top to bottom, and that it seals the holes for the pins to prevent moisture intrusion. The old adhesive was about 1.4mm thick, and the recess in the back of the emblem is about 1.1mm deep.

I bought 2 plastic 1.5" putty knives and made sure the front edges were sharp (knife edge). This enabled them to be wedged under the edge of the emblem, exposing a thin gap between the emblem and body.
Note: The spacing between the pins is 1.5" so a 1.5" wide putty knife inserted laterally will fit between them if inserted precisely. But of course you don't know precisely where the pins are so I'd go with a 1" or 3/4" wide putty knife (or shim as you'll read below). See picture #3.

I tried pulling dental floss back and forth like a rope saw but it broke after a couple back and forths.
Then I tried very thin stainless wire (small gauge safety wire). This worked ok, but the protrusion of the fender means you can't run the wire vertically without damaging the edge of the emblem. But you can pull the wire back and forth horizontally. This will cut thru a very small amount of the adhesive, leaving most of it intact. See picture #4 & #5.

Finally I used a combination of the plastic putty knifes, oriented vertically, to slice down thru the adhesive on both sides of the pins. This required reforming the sharp leading edge of the putty knives a few times (box cutter works). I tapped them down thru the adhesive with a weighted rubber mallet. I've attached a picture #6 showing the final result where the 2 putty knives have sliced all the way down thru the adhesive.

This leaves only the adhesive that resides vertically between the pins. Maybe I'm a girly man, but I didn't feel I could pull that remaining amount of adhesive apart by brute force. So I made a home make shim (or sharpened putty knife) to cut into that remaining adhesive from the side. I tool an old sawall blade, ground the teeth off, rounded the tip and beveled both sides to leave a knife edge around the tip and about 1.5" of the length. The reason I did a double bevel is to keep the shim from digging into either the body or the back side of the emblem.

With 2 putty knifes inserted part way behind the emblem, there was enough of a gap for me to insert and drive this shim thru the adhesive that resides between the vertical pins. See the picture showing the shim in place. I used pilers to wiggle that shim up and down to cut most of the adhesive between the pins. FWIW, I could have used this metal shim in a vertical orientation to cut thru the adhesive just as I'd used the plastic putty knives. That would have saved time as the putty knives were somewhat slow going cutting thru the foam tape.

Once I'd done this I was able to wiggle the emblem back and forth until the remaining adhesive tore apart.

Note: I tried both 3M adhesive remover and acetone on the adhesive, but neither seemed to loosen the adhesive at all. Perhaps modest heat (180F?) would've helped a lot. I'll try it on one of the emblems to see if that softens the glue.



picture 1.jpg
upper pin.jpg
pin spacing.jpg
wire_vert.jpg
wire_lateral.jpg
twin_putty.jpg
shim sideways.jpg
 

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Ok
my car has been painted and PO stuck the old ones back on.. any ideas on removal without damage to paint work?
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok
my car has been painted and PO stuck the old ones back on.. any ideas on removal without damage to paint work?
Cheers
On my very old repaint in the plastic putty knives did not scratch the paint which could not be corrected with a cut and buff. However, that metal shim (or shape 3/4” wide putty knife) will scratch the paint more.i suppose I could have put a THIN coating or tape on it to protect the paint. Cellophane tape might be sufficient. I like the idea of heating up the emblem will soften the adhesive, just stay below a temp that’ll damage the emblem and paint. Maybe a Careful application of a heat gun would work (far away, long duration).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have to reinstall mine soon, but my body shop welded those holes up. Would you mind providing the measurements X/Y to the holes?
Dear BH Classics,
Any relation to the LA dealer who sells ‘dream’ classics cars? By dream, I mean what the person writing the ad copy was doing when describing the cars FS ;-)

Here are some dimensions. The reference points on the body are a bit ambiguous. Better would be to make a paper template that references along the quarter window and top of rear fender. But I imagine this will get you within 1-10th of an inch ;-)
26C8AF3D-5F77-49FF-9394-C9F7EE23E7CE.jpeg F7358F0D-A114-4EF2-BABF-0DFF7BB4B3F7.jpeg A17F5FDC-B563-48F3-8AB3-13719814B979.jpeg
 

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Thanks for the dimensions! That's a great help!

No, actually, my original plan was to become a big time classic car dealer (more of a pipe dream really) but my plans stopped after my first failed attempt at restoring a gtv, then I got this second gtv just for myself, and got sucked into the whole Alfa world!
 
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