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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a bit of a story. When I bought my 86 gtv6 it came with a parts car as part of the deal. Over time, looking for parts for the 86 and checking for other details I was starting to think the parts car was in too good of condition to knock it down to parts car status. I know very little about it. It came to me not running with tires so rotted I could get a finger through one of the holes in the sidewall. It’s an 82, I believe it’s a Canadian market car, the interior seems like it’s in fantastic condition, uncut door panels, no ripped seats, has all three keys :-0 crack free dash as far as I have seen. Still has the distributor cap protector, clamps on the aux air valve have never been off, etc.
Upper rad support is super rusted and front of the rockers, the rest of the car is quite nice, even the battery box has none.
I think there is only 57000kms on it, all pedal pads etc support that.
I have a few days right now to see what I can figure out, so I dragged, yanked and pushed it into the garage, squirted some light oil in the cylinders and just started cleaning out the fuel system, pulled the tank right out (looked surprisingly good inside) drained it and the blew out the return line.
The current goal is to just get it to run, then see if I can figure out why it was derelicted in the first place.
 

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Well I'll be... sure check it out! That doggone aluminum coolant expansion tank's worth some jack, too! If you need another Benzoni wheel of that style I have one, just let me know and it's yours for the shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The aluminum tank in the picture is a saga. I got a local welder/fab shop to do it, starting in February for the 86, took the tank out of the 82 to leave as a pattern. Long story short, the welding and construction are art, but it’s too big and doesn’t fit at all. I’ve already taken it back as he put sight glass ports on the side by the washer fluid, so those had to come off. Confidence was good in the beginning and since it started early I missed the recent group buy. Now it’s a boat anchor.
Thank you for the offer of the wheel, I will have to let you know.
 

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Can’t wait to see your progress.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Terminal corrorsion would be the only thing that should stop you getting the car back on the road, as you know engine, transaxle and suspension parts are all available. Hope all goes well and you decide to save the car
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don’t know if today would be called progress, I did pour some hours into the old derelict.
I started the day vacuuming the interior and giving the surfaces a wipe, it was on my mind to tackle that job today. I figured might as well have at it while I was clean, before I crawl around on the floor in coveralls.
After that it was on to the fuel system some more. Cleaned up the banjo bolts for the tank, reinstalled the tank and went about changing the fuel filter. Things went a bit sideways at this point, not so much with the filter, which I was able to find in stock in town, Canadian tire of all places, more with the fuel pump. I cleaned it up, squirted some brake clean in to to rinse out old gas etc. Gave it a tap of power, got nothing. More brake clean, compressed air, more taps of power. I must have wasted two hours trying to resurrect the installed pump. Gave up in the end and robbed one out of my emergency travel box for another car. Things went together ok then, enough to put gas in the tank.
Getting gas actually in the tank had hurdles as the rubber collar was cracked all to heck. I ended up just taping it for now, another thing added to the list if this car goes further than just running.
The little hose to the cold start injector is just a little hose, I’ve never seen it like that before, is that how they were done originally?
On the bright side, the engine does turn, cam marks do line up with the little pointers on the belt covers. It looks like the air con pulley is bolted to the front of the crank pulley and embarrassingly I wasn’t able to see the P mark, I did find the M, none others, sigh. That’s as far as I got today, life made other demands of me.
The paint like that on the transaxle fill plug, what’s up with that? Does that mean the fill plug has never been removed since new?...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don’t know what the future for this car holds. Ideally I would trade it for an equalish 85-86 parts car. Who knows, I’m going to see if I can get it running in the next few days, winter is coming.... Then see what next year brings. My biggest hurdle right now is I have about three too many cars for my income...... :-s.
 

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Parts car? That ain't no parts car! What rust you've mentioned is repairable. I like the color combination, too. It is a dark blue, right? Is that the Posillipo Blue maybe? I think it's AR369 code, IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The paint code tag says 908, some kind of black metallic?
My skills don’t really include cutting and welding, which gives this car a limited future for me. Plus it would need an out of province inspection to get it licensed for the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Progress today, I think. Finally confirmed cam timing was correct. I removed the air filter housing completely to change the oil filter, there are still the little clip type anchor nuts for the three bolts for the lower housing, I mangled one getting the bolts out but I was able to bend and coax it back to shape, at the end of the day I ran a tap through them all. It was right about that time my father in law spooked the heck out of me when he burst into the garage to drop off homemade ham and pea soup, as well as carrot cake, I forgave him. We had game for thanksgiving on Monday and he makes a wicked soup, pretty much a stew. I carried on with the oil change, the filter that came out was Huge, a Fram ph7.. Put a Baldwin bt223 in, much nicer. The oil that came out of the pan was this gelatinous goo stuff, it was really gross, some lumpiness too, ugh. After refilling that I tackled the brake master, there was zilch in the reservoir and I wanted to see if it had all leaked into the booster. For a rare bright spot the booster was totally dry, Yahoo. Since I was this far I took off the reservoir to give it a good clean, it too had a gooey mess in the bottom, after that was back on I did the same for the clutch, at least that reservoir had fluid in it, still a goopy mess at the bottom. Coolant tank went in after a clean. Along the way I have been disassembling connectors and ground points, the silver ignition box by the coil came out to get at the grounds underneath. If anyone has an extra super long coil wire, mine is in sad shape, it measures 1 Kohm, I don’t know if that’s good or bad. I dropped the fuse box to check that out, gave all the fuses a once over. Got some power applied, I need to read up on the two exhaust lights, don’t know enough about those yet.
With power available and fuel in the tank it was getting close to seeing if important things were going to work. Put the air box back in so I could plug in the afm to try tripping the fuel pump, still has an Alfa Romeo air filter.... With everything hooked up, key on (I think I’m going to murder that key buzzer), reach in and trip the flap to hear........ everything work and gurgling fuel sounds, yay! I had to add more fuel as after a handful of seconds you could hear air getting sucked in the tank. That was confidence inspiring enough that I pull the plugs back out, lodge plugs still, I don’t think I have ever seen a lodge plug in the flesh before, undid the dual relay, held my breath and cranked the starter..... no oil pressure, ugh. The engine spun ok. After a couple of attempts I gave up and went to see if I could get the gauge to pin. Couldn’t get that to happen either. Resolved that, it was just operator error, needed a better ground. Gauge works, why no indication. I tried getting down in there to clean, scratch, anything the spade on the sender. That worked a bit, oil press came up but only to 18psi....
By then it was late and time to head in.
 

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My 1984 MY owner's manual states that oil pressure at idle is less than 10psi. Don't worry about 18 while cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Today was up and down, didn’t get a whole lot of time on it today, kinda paying for yesterday on that one. I tried cleaning the oil pressure sender spade some more, did more cranking with the plugs out, same result. I did forget to take the combo relay out so now I know the fuel pump runs while cranking. I also checked for spark, which was good, great even. At this point I though, what the heck. Put the big air hose on, plugs in, everything back together and tried a start.
And it fired right up, then died.... That’s all I would end up getting out of it, fires and dies. I pinched off the line to the booster, swapped big air hose with the other car, unplugged the cold start injector. Then I ran out of time. Had to go give the spica spider a good blast with the missus.
 

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The infamous 'Starts then Stalls syndrome' the car starts on the cold start circuit but won't run on the main EFI circuit, for those who don't know the cold start circuit runs as part of the EFI system but is automomous from the main injector circuit, the cold start has a seventh injector the blue colored injector at the rear of the plenum this runs for 8-10 seconds below 30c via signals from a thermotime switch at the thermostat. Try checking the grounds at the rear of the right side cylinder head these are crucial grounds for the main injector circuiut also check the temp sender at the thermostat my car will not run with this sender disconnected or with age corroded connectors?
 

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Looks like another good project, you should teach yourself bodywork, it really is pretty stright forward with some practice. Buy a decent small welder like a Lincoln 180C, practice on scrap metal, make templates from carboard and copy those with sheet metal (actually now that i think about it you can buy pre-made patch panels now for the 116)....it doesn't take as long as you might think and it's highly rewarding!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you for the ideas. I was just getting into the wiring diagrams to see if there were separate power wires to the coil for start and run as I only saw one green type wire there.
As I wait for the doctor to call for a drivers medical I have a question about the “exh sensor” warning light up in the little four pack. The wiring diagrams only have info about that being a low fuel pressure light and I don’t see anything in the owners manual about it. Any info? Something in a service bulletin somewhere?

Thank you,
 

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Original catalytic converters had a temperature sensor. If the cat got to hot, it would trigger that light. No replacement cat has that sensor, to my knowledge. Not something you need to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have two exhaust lights, exhaust temp and exhaust sensor. Are you saying they do the same thing?
 
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