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Hello All,

I have recently bought myself my first 164. I originally bought it to put the motor in my 75 but I have decided to dely and drive the car. So far I am liking it.

I have a few small problems to repair such as.... Driver seat was fixed into position so I hotwired that. The ticking from behind the dash.. still not fixed and I need to adjust the front headlights.

This one is white 3L auto with 166km on the clock.

Do you have any pointers eg... when to change the timing belt? Is there a kit for the steering rack that may be cheaper than buying a new one. My steering rack has no dampener on it.

So far its quiet pleasant to drive, except for filling up the power steering rack every few days. But I have only had it 2 weeks.

Thanks thought I would share.
 

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Welcome to the brotherhood. I would change timing belt and water pump right away and replace leaking rack, too. Then change timing belt at 30-35,000 miles and or 4-5 years thereafter if mileage not met. change water pump at second belt change.

Damper on rack has nothing to do with leak and not needed. You can't reseal rack without removing and disassebling it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Steve,
That's a bugger I did know about the water pump. Timing belt looks ok I have swap
out the one on my 75 it takes me about 1hours or so.

I seen a couple of your post you certainly know your stuff, is it easier to drop the sub frame when swapping the steering rack?

Also, is a seal kit available from the USA because there is no kits available in Australia only whole racks for about $1000 plus not cheap.

cheers mate
Shane
 

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Ticking behind dash is bad HVAC stepper motors. Lots of previous threads on repairing those yourself cheaply.
 

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welcome to the brotherhood of fools. ciao, jc
 

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Thanks Steve,
That's a bugger I did know about the water pump. Timing belt looks ok I have swap
out the one on my 75 it takes me about 1hours or so.

I seen a couple of your post you certainly know your stuff, is it easier to drop the sub frame when swapping the steering rack?

Also, is a seal kit available from the USA because there is no kits available in Australia only whole racks for about $1000 plus not cheap.

cheers mate
Shane
You won't do a timing belt on a 164 in a hour. Maybe once you've done it a couple times 3 hours.

As for rebuilding a rack .wwwjorgenauto.com may sell you a kit 54559. I have gotten mine from them in the past. I even have gotten the kit from them on ebay but not listed now.

This is how I did one recently: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/287401-testing-rebuilding-164-steering-rack-home.html

Here is how I got one out of a LHD model youe will have to go in from the other side on a RHD model:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/166536-changing-leaking-alfa-164-steering-rack-etc.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ticking behind dash is bad HVAC stepper motors. Lots of previous threads on repairing those yourself cheaply.
HI Roadtrip,
would you have any photos of the "HVAC " Or any info before I
remove the dash cluster.
I was think that maybe I could remove "cut away" the plastic behind
the cluster to get to the HVAC. What do you guys think would that work ?

cheers all
 

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You have RHD 164? so your dash set up different. Is your a/c panel one with rows of black square buttons or 3 rotary knobs?

RHD set up has one stepper on speedo side of dash and other one on glove box side.
 

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Bets are off if yours is RHD. Like Steve says, it's different.

Below is an instruction sheet by AlfaPro who used to make metal replacement gears. About half-way through the document it goes into the procedure for RHD cars. If you have trouble downloading it, PM me an email address and I'll email it to you.

The main problems are broken diverter drum pivots, and gears in the stepper gearboxes. BMW gears are readily avail from breaker yards for about $20 USD per stepper. Look at the threads here on the BB for the LHD cars, and that should give you an idea. Stepper jobs aren't really that hard, just a little tedious. Be sure and do the de-torque resistor mod to help ensure the high torque motors don't destroy the gears again. I've done it twice. Go slow, label removed hardware, and have the parts necessary to complete the job ahead of time.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CD8QFjAD&url=http://www.omifacsimiles.com/alfa/164SteppersReplacementGuide.doc&ei=e9UUVP_ACo-tyATK7YGABQ&usg=AFQjCNE_PM2uSJuPu5FT3h59Lj_iYJouFQ&sig2=BaQ3SNkNL9gM29HBwq9DDA&bvm=bv.75097201,d.aWw
 

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Some of the RHD 164 A/c stepper components

Here is a pix from euro spec RHD a/c steppers:

Item 8 is what LHD models have whereas item 1, 11, 4, 5, 6, 15 and 21 are some different configurations your RHD may have depending on type of a/c panel you have.
 

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Bets are off if yours is RHD. Like Steve says, it's different.

Below is an instruction sheet by AlfaPro who used to make metal replacement gears. About half-way through the document it goes into the procedure for RHD cars. If you have trouble downloading it, PM me an email address and I'll email it to you.

The main problems are broken diverter drum pivots, and gears in the stepper gearboxes. BMW gears are readily avail from breaker yards for about $20 USD per stepper. Look at the threads here on the BB for the LHD cars, and that should give you an idea. Stepper jobs aren't really that hard, just a little tedious. Be sure and do the de-torque resistor mod to help ensure the high torque motors don't destroy the gears again. I've done it twice. Go slow, label removed hardware, and have the parts necessary to complete the job ahead of time.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CD8QFjAD&url=http://www.omifacsimiles.com/alfa/164SteppersReplacementGuide.doc&ei=e9UUVP_ACo-tyATK7YGABQ&usg=AFQjCNE_PM2uSJuPu5FT3h59Lj_iYJouFQ&sig2=BaQ3SNkNL9gM29HBwq9DDA&bvm=bv.75097201,d.aWw
Some of the text from above document about RHD set up:
In left-hand-drive (LHD) vehicles (as illustrated here) the two stepper units are fixed onto a single assembly located beside the glovebox on the RH (passenger's) side of the vehicle.
In right-hand-drive (RHD) models (not illustrated) the air distribution stepper remains in the same location on the RH side of the vehicle, but the dash has reversed of course so that stepper is now behind the driver's instrument cluster.
The air temperature mixing stepper has moved to the LH (passenger's) side of the car, still behind the plastic cover in the glovebox.

Other than these location differences, the job of removal and overhauling the steppers is similar for LHD and RHD models when using the dash loosening procedure. Alternative methods (access through the glovebox etc) have differences between LHD and RHD.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
WOW you guys rock,
that all looks very good I will let you know how I go, next weekend.

today I've clean up all the bloody black grease and years of dirt on and around the inner
guards & found that the cv boot on the left is stuffed along with the boot on the rack,
power steering belt needs to bee renewed So I have a lot to do

cheers guys thank you all.
 

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Here's a good thread on repairing the stepper motor gears. Read all the way through it.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/189397-stepper-motor-repair-2.html

Salvage stepper gears from BMW 8 series E31, 7 series E32, 5 series E34, or 3 series E36 . . . early 90s car's I think. The Bosch number on the steppers themselves is 0 132 800 001 or 003. The last three numbers may not mean much, such as the type of lever or something. But you don't care about that . . . you just want the internal gears.
 

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That's right, the stepper motors themselves don't seem to ever fail, just the gears.
 

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That's right, the stepper motors themselves don't seem to ever fail, just the gears.
in the attached gear boxes.
 
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