Alfa Romeo Forums banner

61 - 80 of 92 Posts

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Figured I’d try to get this attached while I’m
working on the distributor.

@spiderserie4 ; - is this where that thermo doohickey goes? (Little hole in center of photo)




In the meantime I twist tied it to the coolant container.



How should I attach it to the radiator - small zip tie? Wire?

(This being said - I’ve never heard the fan running after I turn off the car. Not sure if it’s b/c that piece is broken or b/c it’s not been in the right location)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Glad you are getting things squared away! One thing about torque wrenches. If you bought a cheapy you are almost better going by feel, they can be so inaccurate it would amaze you. A good one will cost you a couple hundred bucks and come with a calibration sheet from final inspection. Dont worry about torque on the plugs, they have a crush washer, just go by the 1/4 turn rule...
Guessing that makes mine a $40 is a cheepo then.


Worth keeping for other projects or return to sender and save my pennies for something else?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Got the Bosch part, but looks used/returned.
Not sure how important the coating is. Safe to use?






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
where did you buy it?
did it come in a Bosch box?
looks like a cheaply molded fake from here.
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
where did you buy it?
did it come in a Bosch box?
looks like a cheaply molded fake from here.
Autozone - they overnighted it to a local location

Came in a Bosch box. Was like $23



Also got a cheap backup from O’Rielly due to a misorder ($8) that I was going to return.
(They steered me wrong a few times now - I have 4 chain shops locally, I’m going to stop using orielly)



I think the Bosch has a two year warranty on it.

I’m also out wires due to the holiday (the place recommended is closed till the the 8th)

My semi plan is to:
Already replaced the spark plugs
Get a distributor to coil wire someplace (that’s the one that’s split) the spark plug wires seem okay enough
Use the cheap distributor cap
Use either the original rotor or the new Bosch rotor (it looks good)
And see if it starts/starts better.

Then I can return the locally sourced parts, order the Bosch from autohausAZ and the new SP wires from wire site and replace everything bit at least confirm with the cheap cap and single wire that everything works and I don’t need something else.

I’d be out $20, but if it works the I know that’s the problem (and I get to drive it)

Dumb plan? Ok idea? What am I not considering?

Ty!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
I’ve seen caps with the grind marks,
A factory second is what you have there.
You can use it, it will be fine.
Thanks @Richy04

Updated plan!

Have that installed the Bosch cap and rotor and think I have a source for a 10” 7mm wire for the coil. Am bringing my wires with me to confirm it’ll fit.

If that works I’ll use the current SP wires and the new Coil wire for now, then order a full set from a recommended source and install those when they get here.

Also installed the thermo switch for the AC fan in its proper location.

Assuming the car starts planning on replacing the fuel filter too.

Feels good to have my head around this a little bit! (I know it’s basics for a lot of you, but for someone who’s never even changed oil before, installing spark plugs and a distributor cap - even if they don’t work - feels pretty great)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
Yeah, great, A factory Second for double the price
Sure it might work but I’d chuck it back at autozone and tell them they got a nerve selling rubbish like that
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Yeah, great, A factory Second for double the price
Sure it might work but I’d chuck it back at autozone and tell them they got a nerve selling rubbish like that
Feel similarly. Called them and they said they’d swap it out if there’s any issue at all.

At this point I’m caulking it up to a $15 lesson to check things before I leave the shop and the difference between getting the car going today vs next weekend (often don’t have under the hood time during the work week).

Worth buying another from auto Haus and keeping as a backup? How often do folks need to replace distributor caps?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Ok! So one step forward, two back?

I got a coil wire to give starting a go with the new plugs and distributor cap/rotor (Waiting on wire set from Kingsborne).

Plugged everything in and it started on the first try! (pause for yippee!)
It was idling very rough so I turned the car off.
Checked everything was connected ok and tried it again. Started and again, idled rough with pops and grumbles from the exhaust. See Video below


Happen to chat with my Uncle who's a super home mechanic and from the video he said it sounded like my wires were out of order on the distro cap. So I went and confirmed - unplugged, checked the wire labels and inserted in the order @spiderserie4 mentioned.

Now I'm back to crank no start (no spark?)


Everything seems to be fit properly and in the right order, but I have a random spare hour this AM so trying again.

I'm going to unhook the wires, remove the distro cap, check the rotor and put it all back together again.

It "worked" once - anything else I should be checking while I wait for my replacement wires? Everything was running, albeit with a lot of cranking to get a start, on the old wires so I'm doubting they are causing this.

I didn't remove the distributor and it feels solid in place so I don't think it's lined up wrong but maybe?

My uncle thinks I could be in the wrong spot for #1 wire, but from everything I can tell (marking on distro, cap placement, # on wire headed to #1 spark plug - in front of car) I'm in the right one. Last effort will be to rotate the wires around and see if that changes things.

What am I missing?

Open to other thoughts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
sounds like firing on a couple of cylinders when it started.....
my guess is your distributor drive might be 180° out....it can happen if a PO did work on the engine and didn't get that right.
Doesn't really matter, you just need to put the leads in the same (mis)order.

so determine where the rotor is pointing when you get #1 cylinder on top dead centre / TDC

remove spark plug #1 cylinder.....turn engine manually (push car in 5th gear) until the timing mark on the pulley is aligned, and no. 1 piston is coming up to the top (TDC) with both valves closed (compression stroke)...use a straw or something down the hole to determine when it is at the top.....you can also tell compression stroke by putting your finger on the hole and feeling the air blow out (you'll need a trusty servant pushing the car)

now look at the rotor....is it pointing to about 3 o'clock to that little tell-tale mark on the dizzy?
or is it pointing somewhere like 9 o'clock?

If it is pointint to 3 that is where cylinder no 1 spark lead goes.
If it is pointing at about 9, put cylinder no 1 lead there....

in either case, follow through fitting the rest of the leads in the firing order 3-4-2
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
Thanks!

I don’t have a trusted partner to help move the car, but i can try the plugs “rotated” in a different position (like the 180°) and see if it helps.

A few thoughts
  • my father was the PO, don’t think he did this work bit that doesn’t mean he didn’t or mean whoever he hired to do it did it poorly.
  • the red mark to indicate “front” is front does that mean it’s on the right way?


Hard to see in the photo, but if you zoom in the ref Mark is 3 o’clock.

Ty!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Better photo



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
yes, red arrow you made points to the little mark I mentioned and that is where the rotor would point to when the engine is set to TDC on cyl #1 on compression stroke.
So that is lead to cyl.#1 then followed by 3-4-2 in clockwise manner.

However, not sure you understand the "180° out" concept. It doesn't mean the whole distributor has been fitted to the engine turned around 180° (sort of impossible), it is the drive cog down inside the engine that is 180° out (no. 4 in that diagram, there called 'oil pump spigot')

So, if the drive cog inside the engine was 180° out, the rotor - when the engine is set to TDC - would point roughly to 9 o'clock, and not to that little mark at 3 o'clock.

Try putting lead #1 at the 9 o'clock position on the distributor, then follow through 3-4-2
If it wont start, put things back to normal.
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
However, not sure you understand the "180° out" concept. It doesn't mean the whole distributor has been fitted to the engine turned around 180° (sort of impossible), it is the drive cog down inside the engine that is 180° out (no. 4 in that diagram, there called 'oil pump spigot')

...

Try putting lead #1 at the 9 o'clock position on the distributor, then follow through 3-4-2
If it wont start, put things back to normal.
Thanks for the clarification - That’s exactly what I thought you meant

I’ll try the #1 @ 9 pm strategy and see what that gets me.

I can also try to figure out the TDC process you mentioned too, but likely not today


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Vroom!

We have ignition.

Swapping the #1wire to the 9'o clock spot is what it needed.


I drove it a few times today already and it does drive better with the new plugs and distributor. Looking forward to the wires arriving.

I am having an issue where the air duct that goes over the engine/spark plug #2 keeps "popping off" on either or both sides. It caused me to stall each time.

I think I have it clamped down there really good, but on an acceleration it's popped off. Suggestions on keeping that connected? I'm going to need to pull it off to put the new wires on anyway, but I have it tightened down almost all the way the clamps allow.

At least now I can drive it and starts well! (it does idle low a second after starting, then recovers but I'll take it!)
 

·
Premium Member
86 Veloce
Joined
·
1,162 Posts
I cant see why it would "pop off", the air is pulled through the airbox to the plenum via that hose but not a lot of pressure on those clamps. As those hoses age they shrink and get hard a bit and maybe as the engine torques on accel and decel the engine moves a bit ( especially with worn out engine mounts) and maybe it is getting pulled off.... do we have a pic of your crossover hose and its clamping to the AFM and throttle body?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
I noticed earlier in this thread that your hose looked quite mis-aligned even statically (no engine torque)
air hose.jpg

yes do a visual on the engine mounts. If the inlet side mount has really squished the engine will be tilting.
Good way to tell bad engine mounts is the space between the front crank pulley and the swaybar. (well at least on the S4 that is a sure way)

Another thing to check is the air filter box.
The original air filter (orange type) is fairly thick....some aftermarket are thinner...that would change the angle of the AFM when you clipped down the lid, and thus the hose.
Also, not a bad idea to remove the air cleaner and check the 3 bolts that secure the lower half of the air cleaner to the body. Those screws have quite thick rubber grommets with a steel spacer....maybe a PO lost them, then just bolted the air filter box to the body, no spacers, that would change the angle of that hose too.

But I think with a little twisting (loosen the end on the AFM) you can get it aligned much better, even if the air filter housing checks out all ok.
It has to line up statically or it will forever slip off....which is scary, especially if you are out on a freeway overtaking a 20 ton truck with a huge SUV on your tail.

What I do is run a thin width of that old fashioned electrical tape (the cloth one, not the shiny stuff) around the end of that hard plastic tube, and around the end of the AFM...not thick, just once round...that seems to hold the rubber hose better....and oddly enough another secret is not to overtighten those clamps, if you overtighten they slip off even more....just nice and snug tight.

but hey your car starts well now, when the rest of the new bits come, it should run well too
Good job:)
 
61 - 80 of 92 Posts
Top