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1991 164L
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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Changing 164 clutch master cylinder

Step one - remove driver's seat by running seat full rear, remove two front allen head mounting bolts from seat rails. The run seat full forward and remove two rear allen head mounting bolts. Tilt seat reward and disconnect wiring connectors and remove seat from car.

2. Open fuse panel door, remove plastic sleeve and rubber glove hiding clutch master cylinder.

3. Disconnect rear metal line from cylinder with a 12mm flare nut wrench.

4. Using a lever fork pop fluid supply hose elbow out of top of MC,

5. Using 13mm socket remove right retaining nut and washer. Using a 13mm crowfoot remove left retaining nut and washer.

6. Now hold and pull end of cylinder off mounting studs as you push clutch pedal to floor.

7. Locate cotter key in clevis pin holding MC piston end U-shaped yoke to clutch pedal.

8. Straighten out ends of cotter key and hook a cotter key hooked puller into eye of pin and extract it (I know this sounds easy but it can take a bit to do this part).

9. Remove washer and clevis pin and then remove MC from under dash.

10. If you ended up with rubber grommet on nylon elbow fitting still attached to supply hose remove grommet from fitting and leave fitting in hose. If you were able to get elbow off the hose then elbow and grommet probbly still in MC.

11. I left fitting on hose as I couldn't get it off hose so I removed new elbow from new MC and lubed inner ID of grommet in MC supply port. Removed shipping plug from end of cylinder,

12. Inserted new MC loosely into mounting hole with U-shaped yoke aligned to slip onto clutch pedal and aligned it and inserted clevis pin going from right side. Inserted washer and new cotter key just barely spreading key so it won't fall out.

13. Raised pedal and aligned MC on mounting studs, installed washers and tighened nuts.

14, Now using a long flat lever pivoting under steering column cover I popped nylon supply hose fitting into rubber grommet on MC. (this took a little time doing too until I found long enough flat bar lever to do the trick).

15. Carefully positioned metal line and fitting into rear of cylinder and got fitting to start by hand and then tighened up (easy to cross-thread so try to start it by hand).

16. Installed "glove over cylinder and then installed plastic cover.

I was lucky since I already had seat out of car changing cylinder took me about 2 hours taking my time. Most of time was spent getting cotter key out and popping supply elbow back into MC.
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
adding back clutch MC "glove" and plastic cover
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Next trick inspecting heater core and blower motor.

With engine out removing false firewall pretty easy. Then I removed wiper motor and A/C evaporator box by taking wiring loose and since a/c hoses not connected to a compressor or condensor I took it all out.

BOY is A/C air filter dirty and rotted away at bottom.

Lastly I disconnected temp lever control cable pal nut and disconnected cable. Then I inserted screw driver on right latch and putty knive in left latch and removed blower motor.

I removed new looking heater core and have a PO invoice showing it was changed in 2002 along with blower motor 42,000 miles ago.

I am going to add foam tape banding though that is not on it.

Older invoces indicate stepper motors were changed in 1997 at 52k. They work as I tested them before tearing car apart.
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Heater core looks fine just needs foam banding tape installed around it.

Last pix shows temp stepper motor cable sticking out of firewall and inside dash is a shot of air direction stepper motor (temp stepper is located behind the air drum one shown in pix).
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Replaced blower motor housing temp doors and inspected motor

Well, blower motor looks fine compared brush length to new motor and about the same. Only about 42K more on car since motor was installed.

Upper temperature door was shot though so just happened to have a new one.

Installed foam cushion tape around heater core, blower motor housing facing and installed new foam seal in evaporator box opening where it meets blower motor housing.

Cleaned up and rewrapped wiring harnesses behind false firewall.

I managed to get most of stuff back into area under windshield.

I am about ready to install foam seal on false firewall and get it reinstalled.
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Finished up the day by replacing brake MC on BB2

Got false firewall taped and installed and then finished up by cleaning out brake fluid reservoir and replacing master cylinder.

Since his 164S no longer has electric struts I did not install pressure switch on master clinder for it and plugged off port with allen head plug from an old M/C. Also note the rubber oring on face of Mc that seals it to brake booster.

Recapping day it was semi-productive as I replaced:
Clutch master cylinder and brake master cylinder.

Pulled out A/C evaporator, blower motor and heater core inspected them and then rewrapped all the wire harnesses that had tape missing.

Reinstalled heater core, replaced bad temp door in blower motor housing, reinstalled blower and evaporator and installed false firewall.

Little by little this car is coming back together.
 

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GREAT PHOTOS THANKS STEVE
SEMI PRODUCTIVE DAY FOR STEVE = A whole week of work for some and a month for others [me included on this time line].
 

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Awesome as always Steve! Hey in one picture you can see the stepper motors. Can they be replaced from there? Or at least the one that adjusts the temperature?
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Awesome as always Steve! Hey in one picture you can see the stepper motors. Can they be replaced from there? Or at least the one that adjusts the temperature?
No they can't. the one in pix above is the forward air distribution drum one. As for that one if you could get the two screws out holding the motor to the gear box (which is where gears strip) you might be able to remove that gear box and if air drum keyway not broken you might be able to to change gear box and get air drum to work again.

As for temp stepper gear box you have to go in through the tire pressure decal door in glove box. About all you can do is disconnect temp lever cable from gear box lever and attach a metal rod made from a coat hanger to run temp manually. I have done this before.
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, BB2 production halted again. I have to go to my father in laws in the morning and rip out his bath tub and put in a more elder friendly shower conversion.

I did get to drive BB1 on my errands this morning but truck loaded with shower conversion and home boy tools to install it and ready to go in the morning.

This song is beginning to have more meaning to me. I hope I have remembered to pack everything I will need and can find the keys to the truck in the morning:

TOM RUSH with the memory song.
 

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Oh well indeed

Great song.

question I that the original fan and motor or a replacement?
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh well indeed

Great song.

question I that the original fan and motor or a replacement?


It is a factory replacement complete with fan blade. I have a brand new one just like it in a Alfa box so it matches it. Originale ones had cream colored fan blade with Saab name and part number. This one does not.

It has about 42k on it now as it was changed at same time heater core was.
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Spend last hour showing my father in law my storyboard on this 164S rehab project. I have another story I could tell on his bathtub to shower conversion. I have been working on it since Thursday and hope to finish it tomorrow.

I have a blue thumb I hit with a hammer to prove it.
 

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Re: thumb....If it hada been me, I might had said "ouch"
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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Spend last hour showing my father in law my storyboard on this 164S rehab project. I have another story I could tell on his bathtub to shower conversion. I have been working on it since Thursday and hope to finish it tomorrow.

I have a blue thumb I hit with a hammer to prove it.
Always great to have the time to share a story - and great to find someone else who has the time too. Shower looks practical and easy to clean - was the plumbing easy to organise?

I whacked my hand against suspension last week when ring spinner slipped off, only a tiny cut rather than the usual gash, but hand swelled up and little finger couldn't bend. Still get a jabbing pain when I flatten my hand, think I might not tackle the Spider gearbox removal this week.

-Alex
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
My thumb a darker shade of blue but will get better feeling in a bit as my sister in law just left on a pizza and beer run.

Shower tonight first one for me since last Thursday morning before I came up here and probably first one for my father in law in months.

I bowed to his wishes and let his local plumber do the copper/solder and PVC drain pipe glueing today. Nice young men both the company owner (third generation) who came up this morning to see what was left to do and the man he sent to do the job. Both have worked on this old house many times. They approved of my work and I approved of their finish work.

I still have trim work and tile work around shower enclosure. May not get tile work done this trip as I didn't bring my tile saw and tile tools also didn't have room for my power miter saw so may have to rent one tomorrow.
 

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1991 164L
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Always great to have the time to share a story - and great to find someone else who has the time too. Shower looks practical and easy to clean - was the plumbing easy to organise?

I whacked my hand against suspension last week when ring spinner slipped off, only a tiny cut rather than the usual gash, but hand swelled up and little finger couldn't bend. Still get a jabbing pain when I flatten my hand, think I might not tackle the Spider gearbox removal this week.

-Alex
I had to drill a hole to run new center drain plumbing through wall and we had to step down from 2" shower drain pipe back to 1 1/2" tube drain connection at old cast iron drain system.

Hot and cold water copper lines were pretty easy for plumber to run to new shower valve. We have to get longer shower curtain to replace old shorter one for bath tub. We may install set of sliding doors later. I have to install three handicapped grab bars in shower walls, too.
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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I hate those plastic curtains, as when the shower is turned on fairly high, the air convection in the shower pulls the curtain toward the person taking the shower, often sticking to them. Yuck. But... I'd take a shower over a tub wash every single time.

I've been there with the pounded thumb. Jeez, it hurts like the dickens, and I end up using every swearword I ever learned working on BMC cars, and Alfas (I must admit).
 
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