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Discussion Starter #1
Here is where I am. I have the car jacked up and have it supported by jack stands under the spring pans on both sides on the front of the car.

I have the jack under the oil pan on the passenger side ( I decided to start with the hard side first) and I have all the nuts and bolts attaching the mount to the engine and the frame off.

So here is the problem, I cant get the mount out!

I keep wiggling it almost loose but it wont come all the way off. I jack up a bit and try then let it down a bit and try and I cant get it off.

Should i loosen both mounts at the same time. Or is it best to do it one at a time ( passenger then drivers side).

Please help, what should I do?
 

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There is a way to remove the passenger side mount without removing the support strut.

From the top, remove two of the three nuts that hold the mounts to the engine. Do this on both sides. Remove the bolt and nut at the base of the drivers (left) mount and the bolt at the top of the pass (the nut at the base of the passenger mount is easier from the bottom).

The engine is now sitting on the mounts but held only by the two remaining nuts.

From the bottom, position the jack near the center of the lower pan (use a piece of wood to protect the fins) and jack just enough to support the weight of the engine.

Now you can remove the remaining nuts from the mounts.
The engine is now loose and can be pushed left or right, and up and down to allow clearance to remove the mounts.

Be aware that this clearance also will allow the radiator fan blades to hit the shroud. You can sometimes move the blades around to prevent damage or remove the two bolts at the top of the radiator. This will also cause stress on the exhaust system (I loosen the exhaust at the rear of the converter/pipe junction).

Since the passenger mount is more difficult, remove the driver’s side first.
This allows the engine to be pushed even farther towards the driver’s side giving more room to remove the passenger side mount.

Now comes the tricky part.
Remove the bolt and nut that mounts the strut to the passenger mount.
The Passenger side mount will come away from the engine and the strut will slide into the recess of the mount.
The strut that holds the intake plenum is rubber mounted, it can flex.
Push the mount forward enough to clear the studs that held the mount and pull the mount down and clear of the strut. The mount can then be removed by pulling it through the space around the steering linkage.

To install, just reverse the procedure.

I have done it this way more times than I care to remember.
I have found that by not disturbing the intake plenum the chance of creating problems are diminished. The strut itself can be removed but it is difficult to do without long extensions and flex sockets.

Hope this helps
ELM
 

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Instalation of the passenger side mount can be made a bit easier by modifying the new mount. I cut the forward hole of the bottom plate into a slot, toward the front of the car. This allows the mount to slide in without requiring the clearance to go over the stud.
 

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There is a way to remove the passenger side mount without removing the support strut.

From the top, remove two of the three nuts that hold the mounts to the engine. Do this on both sides. Remove the bolt and nut at the base of the drivers (left) mount and the bolt at the top of the pass (the nut at the base of the passenger mount is easier from the bottom).

The engine is now sitting on the mounts but held only by the two remaining nuts.

From the bottom, position the jack near the center of the lower pan (use a piece of wood to protect the fins) and jack just enough to support the weight of the engine.

Now you can remove the remaining nuts from the mounts.
The engine is now loose and can be pushed left or right, and up and down to allow clearance to remove the mounts.

Be aware that this clearance also will allow the radiator fan blades to hit the shroud. You can sometimes move the blades around to prevent damage or remove the two bolts at the top of the radiator. This will also cause stress on the exhaust system (I loosen the exhaust at the rear of the converter/pipe junction).

Since the passenger mount is more difficult, remove the driver’s side first.
This allows the engine to be pushed even farther towards the driver’s side giving more room to remove the passenger side mount.

Now comes the tricky part.
Remove the bolt and nut that mounts the strut to the passenger mount.
The Passenger side mount will come away from the engine and the strut will slide into the recess of the mount.
The strut that holds the intake plenum is rubber mounted, it can flex.
Push the mount forward enough to clear the studs that held the mount and pull the mount down and clear of the strut. The mount can then be removed by pulling it through the space around the steering linkage.

To install, just reverse the procedure.

I have done it this way more times than I care to remember.
I have found that by not disturbing the intake plenum the chance of creating problems are diminished. The strut itself can be removed but it is difficult to do without long extensions and flex sockets.

Hope this helps
ELM
You say you did this many times. How often do you do this on a car?? Seems like a mount would last for years, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet!! I have both new mounts attached to the engine now I'm gonna break the attach everything to the frame and then tighten things up.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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You say you did this many times. How often do you do this on a car?? Seems like a mount would last for years, right?
Yes, the mounts do last for years (not enough years in my opinion).
Which is why I have changed so many of them.

I have been an Alfa tech for more than 20 yrs.
I worked at one of the nations highest volume dealers from 84 till Alfa stopped importing cars in 95. We became an Lamborghini and Lotus dealer but continued to service Alfas until 02 when the company was sold.

This was, of course during the peak of Alfa's US sales.
So... I have seen my share of sagging mounts, broken flex joints, leaking headgaskets, burned and bent valves, quite a few broken rods poking out the side of crankcases, worn syncros, no-start spiders, stripped timing belts, noisy pinion and axle bearings, and some really strange electrical problems. I think you get the picture.

Anyway, I am glad that you guys are still out there keeping the cars on the road.

ELM
 

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The shop charged 3.5 hrs to replace both mounts.
I think it took about 2 hrs to do it, (if all went well and there was no sump guard).

ELM
 

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Yes, the mounts do last for years (not enough years in my opinion).
Which is why I have changed so many of them.

I have been an Alfa tech for more than 20 yrs.
I worked at one of the nations highest volume dealers from 84 till Alfa stopped importing cars in 95. We became an Lamborghini and Lotus dealer but continued to service Alfas until 02 when the company was sold.

This was, of course during the peak of Alfa's US sales.
So... I have seen my share of sagging mounts, broken flex joints, leaking headgaskets, burned and bent valves, quite a few broken rods poking out the side of crankcases, worn syncros, no-start spiders, stripped timing belts, noisy pinion and axle bearings, and some really strange electrical problems. I think you get the picture.

Anyway, I am glad that you guys are still out there keeping the cars on the road.

ELM
Wow, its nice to have tons of experience on these cars. Im sure we can use your expertise here at alfabb!! Thanks for reply.

Joe
 
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