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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am getting ready to retest some spare 164 fuel pumps I last tested in 2008 so I may put some up for sale very soon. I use two-cycle gas mixture so the pump impeller has some corrosion protection.

I also have 3 tank covers with broken off black ground wires for pump. So why does black wire and not red wires break off beats me? I have to repair those 3 cover ground wire connection points.

See rusty cover with previous black wire repair by using screw and nut and sealant to attach black wire to upper black wire by drilling out stud in middle of round insulator.

Also I have a pump and basket assembly from my daughters wrecked 164 tank ready to test/preserve and maybe sell. I had to install a sending unit tank cover sealing gasket under shrunken rubber pump mounting bushing as fuel pump bushing was floating inside inner filter basket. Note SAE 30 short hose.

I also reused a lower pump filter pan rubber pad that was missing one of the three locking rubber dimples. So I used JB weld to seal it to pan bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Old and new rubber fuel pump mounting bushing 60572049

If you can reuse old bushing be sure it has not sunken to the point the pump floats around in filer basket. I had to use a spare old sending unit tank cover neoprene gasket (just the right diameter and thickness to take out free play) to shim up daughters old pump assembly.

Note: Only one of the 8 triangle opening in bushing has a hole drilled through for black venting "soda straw"

Be sure you insert soda straw in that hole.

82419135 orings for pressure and return hose elbows at tank cover

And #10 statoseals for fuel tank cover packages of 4 need two packs
You can use #12 little easier to slide over aleen head tank cover screws.
Use #8 size for fuel sender cover screws.

82404491 fuel pump lower pan anti-vibration pad new and used ones. My last new one!
 

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Hi steve,
I hope to follow this thread keenly :)
I changed the fuel filter on my TS last week. (Mechanic did the job. Not me)
It seemed to be a bit abnormal. It works alright, but, sometimes, when i step on the gas peddle at idle, it seems to be sluggish... Sort of not firing fuel properly thereby causing the RPM to keep dropping and suddenly surging (if u get what i mean)..
So i got it replaced with a newer fuel filter from a Super which is much much better and now the engine pulls very much smoother.

I have the pics of both filters. The old one has a different part (as in your last picture above), as i got the fuel filter repaired way back in 2005. I dont remember from what vehicle that thing was taken but i believe its from a fiat. ---> (( IS THAT THE PUMP??))

Anyway, i just need to know if its possible to get the filter back to normal? May be the "pump" needs to be replaced, but, if so, what would be the best option?

Many thanks!

P.S: the fuel filter in the TS and the SUPER is the exact same thing. Will post pics below soon...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Sorry, dont remember where i saved the pic of the newer pump, but will post when i get it. Heres the old one:
That pump is the same but you have a Euro style "plastic" tank set up so tank cover is different that our USA modelssteel tank set up.

The pump is set in the same rubber bushing and then encased inside a inner filter basket in that lower pan (bucket) that stainless steel straps lock into.

The later pumps have pre filter cap on them so with filter basket and external fuel filter under car it is pretty well protected from getting trash into it or fuel injectors on engine.
 

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Yes, i noticed the difference on the top. Mine is plastic and yours is steel..

BTW, any idea what needs to be replaced to make the filter pumps fuel much better?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Alfa 164 fuel pump check valve

If check valve on top of the pump is bad, do you replace with new or clean it somehow?

Thanks
If it has spring and ball in place try cleaning with compressed air and car cleaner and retest by trying to blow back through it with compressed air.

Last bad one I had in BB1 when I bought car and had hard starting issues was missing ball retainer, ball and spring. Now whre did the parts go into exterior fuel filter? Lucky I had a bad pump with good check valve.

Looking at euro spec fuel tank parts listing it looks like it might have external check valve just under tank cover.

Zaid do you have old pump still and you can verify there is external check valve? Looks like p/n is 82406902 for valve in euro tank set up.

I haven't found a part number yet for check valve fitting on our USA pump.
 

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Folks,

Here is a neat place for what I did today.... I finally removed the half full fuel tank from my first Alfa 164L which was totaled last Christmas.

I had been starting the engine until about April when I decommissioned it all for good to use vital parts on the other two cars.....

It turned out to be seven gallons saved which went into the the tank of the newly rebuilt green 164L which is now tagged and insured but still needs A/C and wheel alignment.

I balanced the tank up high on a trash can and slowly tipped the contents into a Jerry Can filtered with a cloth to exclude the inevitable sediment.

The tank remains balanced upside down on the trash can so that all the gas can evaporate, before I seal it and put it away for whoever might need a good one.
The valuable pump and sender unit were dried out and sealed in plastic bags.
The last pic shows inside a very good twenty one year old 91 Alfa 164L fuel tank.....life cut short by an idiot in a Mercedes.

Let me know if there are better ways to preserve....

Ta,

Neville.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Nice clean tank and pump. Please note that anti-vibration rubber pad stayed in tank but at least it appears it was still under pump pan.

When I first got Sara's now wrecked 164B back in 2004-5 time frame about the second day I had it home I made a High-G turn and engine quit. Turns out no rubber pad under pump can and G-forces swing pump assembly like a pendelum and pulled the non- submersible short hose off tank cover and I lost fuel pressure,

After I had my road side assitance tow it home and pulled pump I found these things,
Hose was like blubber and all mushy as gas had destroyed it.

That submersible SAE 30 hose I showed in fuel pump pix above was the hose I put in car way back then and it is still like new. Fuel pump pan pad I installed had come loose but still in fine shape so I used JB weld to install it couple days ago. I need to test pump in a two-cycle gas and oil mixture to preserve pump so will see how gas reacts on JB weld.

I have to find the time to set up test tank to do the test.
 

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Steve,

You got me thinking now that I should retrieve that pad and see whether it is worth preserving?
The tank spent the day in the hot FL sun and is now upside down in my garage rafters.
There was a minor smell when I got up close as I was manhandling it up the ladder into the rafters.
I think it is better left open than sealed.
The holes all face downwards so that nothing will accumulate inside unless a bat finds a new home.....and dies from inhaling gas fumes.

The pump and sender unit are in plastic bags.

Ta,

Neville.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Neville by all means retrieve that pan pad and seal it up in a zip loc bag unless it is brittle and petrified.

As for SO selling you the pump set up maybe but I need to test it first. Even though it was still working after daughter wrecked car it has been setting dry in my garage now for over a year. And as for fuel gauge sending unit that is a seperate item in tank you don't need that for car to run. I just happened to use a sending unit cover gasket to tighten/increase this pump's rubber bushing thickness so pump fits tight into inner filter basket.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do u want to sell the tank and sending unit with pump and help me get my 164 back on the rd? Thanks.
Send you a PM with pricing and shipping details.
 

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Zaid do you have old pump still and you can verify there is external check valve? Looks like p/n is 82406902 for valve in euro tank set up.

I haven't found a part number yet for check valve fitting on our USA pump.
Hi steve,
Just came across this.
I do have the old tank. Promise to check that out in the morning (its night here). What exactly do u want me to check please?

Thanks
Zaid
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi steve,
Just came across this.
I do have the old tank. Promise to check that out in the morning (its night here). What exactly do u want me to check please?

Thanks
Zaid
Is there a check valve with banjo fitting on top of pump or is there a check valve in hose(s) between pump and tank cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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I also reused a lower pump filter pan rubber pad that was missing one of the three locking rubber dimples. So I used JW weld to seal it to pan bottom.
Steve, do you mean JB Weld rather than JW Weld, because I couldnt find any JW Weld products.

If it is indeed JB Weld product, could you suggest which one to use among the following variants (ofcourse not something formulated for wood)

JB Weld Products

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Steve, do you mean JB Weld rather than JW Weld, because I couldnt find any JW Weld products.

If it is indeed JB Weld product, could you suggest which one to use among the following variants (ofcourse not something formulated for wood)

JB Weld Products

thanks.
Yes, I corrected that typo to JB Weld. I used J-B WELD Part No. 8265-S & 8265 AUTOS, MOTORCYCLES, MECHANICAL
•fuel tanks. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent
 
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