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I posted a similar thread with an earlier version of my fusebox layout to the GT forum but realize there is a wider audience and some great knowledge here, so I'm posting my current schematic here for comment. I'm going to a three box setup, which may sound like overkill but based on the semi-bussed configuration of the factory box and what's on the market, this was the best I could come up with and sacrifices nothing in the way of safety. I'll be using two of these ganged 6 place boxes and one of these individual 6 place boxes. I'm also going to move the battery to the trunk and run the fuel pump and headlights off relays.

Engine bay box 1: 6 place (2 empty) Headlights, foglights, horn. This is a ganged box, pulling B+ from the alternator.

Cabin box 1: 6 place Always hot ganged box. This replaces fuses 1-4 in the factory box and adds two places for previously unfused wires to the headlight stalk and ignition. See #1 below.

Cabin box 2: 6 place independent circuit box with a few terminals ganged.

Papajam - I'm using your diagrams as a basis for what I'm doing - please PM me if this is a problem! All credit to you for making these and for helping us all with electrical issues.

A few questions:

1. If I read the factory wiring diagram correctly, there are a number of unfused wires. There are four red wires ganged at fuses 1-4, one of which is B+ from the alt. and the rest are loads taken off that B+ pre-fuse. I am fusing all those loads.

2. It seems the factory also left the green/black wire to the coil unfused, pulling power from the unfused side of the switched power. Why wouldn't this pull from the fused side?

3. The ATC/ATO fuses I'm using come in 7.5a/10a/15a/20a whereas the factory used bosch style 8/16a. I'm presuming the lower number is the safer way to default ie replace 8a with 7.5a, replace 16a with 15a.

4. Why does the factory pull power to the fuse block from the starter instead of the alternator?
 

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