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Yep, Iron Machine's entire thread is missing. There were at least two pages of posts in that thread. So far I noticed posts missing in one another thread about an '88 Spider top bow. Oddly enough, Iron Machine's thread was older than the top bow thread. Selective file fragmentation on the server? :(
 

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I'm still trying to figure it out.

We had a rampant user today that was causing alot of havok by cursing and posting all kinds of crazy stuff. When we finnaly got wind of it we had to ban him and delete some of his posts. Although we only removed his postings from the threads there might have been a goof by myself or one of the other moderators. I'll try to see if I have a recent back-up of the thread as I only do backups once a week. Anything in-between would be lost. :(

Can anyone tell me if they got an email saying that this thread was replied to by "TheKID"?

I'll make sure somthing like this doesnt happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In the event the last link doesn't come back, or doesn't for a while, I'll continue here.

Back to the won't start/little compression issue:

I thought of one possible theory that would explain the compression issue, but it seems so far out there I just could not believe it to be true. Because the head was milled slightly to clean it up, and it may have been milled my the previous owner, the head studs will "stick up" above the head surface more than a non-milled head. Because the head is affixed with cap nuts, if the head studs were too long, they could "bottom out" in the cap nuts. There is a washer between the head and the cap nuts, but this may not be enough I suppose if it's milled down. In this case, compression would be poor in all cylinders (leaking out the head gasket), and may be gradually worse going from one end to the other if the milling is slighly off-square. Is this even possible? It seems like the cap nuts are much deeper than the studs stick out, although it's hard to tell without the head gasket compressed.

I suppose if the leak down test shows leakage via the head gasket, this is a very plausible explanation. The fix would be easy - just drop an extra washer on each stud.

Papajam, if the water jacket around the cylinders is full of coolant, will the air still leak out of the radiator if the head gasket is bad?
 

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Although I've never had to add extra washers (actually, never even thought of it before), it's a pretty good idea and I'd think it would most certainly eliminate the possiblity that the head nuts may be bottoming out. If you can measure the head thickness, I think a stock 2l head should be 4.410". But don't quote me on it. Anyone know for sure? I can measure one when I get home later if need be.

>Papajam, if the water jacket around the cylinders is full of coolant, will the air still leak out of the radiator if the head gasket is bad?<

Although the air can get into the cooling system from a few different places (cracked liner, head gasket, cracked head/block, etc.), and depending on how much coolant is in the system, the symptom at the radiator could be either air escaping, bubbles in the coolant or, in a worst case, you could end up taking a shower in the stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Status update . . .

Excited . . . .

Never been so excited about a broken engine - I think we are getting somewhere here. I chocked the wheels up (very important if you ever do this - even in 4th gear, the car will jump forward very quickly!), took of the cam covers, bumped the engine so the #4 cylinder's valves were closed, checked for valve clearance, and screwed in the air fitting to unleash 120 psi of air pressure.

Recall that #4 was the worst compression - well, air comes pouring out the last weber venturi. Opening the throttle more made it gush out! A tiny wisp of air from the tailpipe as well. Nothing from the (open) radiator cap. Nothing from the (removed) dipstick tube. Nothing from the adjacent (open) spark plug hole.

I bumped the cams over on the #3 and repeated. Same thing with the number 3 weber venturi!

Now, the only explanation is the valves aren't seating. Back to the bent valve theory. . . . But why did they hold alcohol without losing a drop? Before I get too excited, is there anything else I'm missing here?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sure - I did it the easy way b/c I was short on time. I've got to pull the cams anyway to get the head off, so I'll check them all again. It may take a couple of days, but I will definately do it.
 

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Re: Status update . . .

Iron Machine said:
But why did they hold alcohol without losing a drop?
Where you using Bailey's Irish Cream? That stuff's pretty thick. :D

Sorry, I have been reading this (and the lost thread) with interest. IM, once you get her running, you should write an article on this project.
 

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Jim, you're correct on the standard head thickness being 4.410", as measured at the front of the head. The Centerline catalog has it published in their tech section.

Simple to check to be sure you have enough thread on the stud bolts. Just take a bolt and washer off and see if the threads continue down far enough so the head nuts won't bottom out.

Massive amounts of air leaking out an intake valve at only 120 psi ain't right. Either you have a massive crack in the head casting or the valve isn't being allowed to seat. First culpit I'd accuse is a "way-off" valve adjustment. Taking the cams out should allow the valve to seat no matter how badly out of adjustment they are. The thing that make me believe it's that also, is the fact that the alcohol test was good. Sounds like something's holding the valve open.
 

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Roadtrip said:
Taking the cams out should allow the valve to seat no matter how badly out of adjustment they are. The thing that make me believe it's that also, is the fact that the alcohol test was good. Sounds like something's holding the valve open.
EXACTLY!! Another thing is that if the air pushed the piston to the bottom of the cylinder, one of the valves WILL be open.
 

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Well . . . . . I assume (and you know what that stands for) that Iron Machine made sure that the engine didn't rotate, but . . . .

I have to admit, IM has got me thinking one this one. This thread is starting to sound either like a problem given out as a final exam question at the Alfa Romeo factory technicians school, or a "puzzler" on PBS's "Car Talk."
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll definately do a "cam-free" check, however, I was able to fit the feeler gauges between the lobe and the follower when under air pressure.
 

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Missing thread update.

OK guys after alot of phone time I finally got to the guy woh can give me a copy of our DB before it went down and lost the original thread. My question to you guys is I need to give them a date and time to pull the original data from. I was thinking June 14th, 12:00pm. How does that sound to you?

Let me know so I can cross this off my list.

PS - The DB went down again and we lost my thread with all the logos on it. Im trying the best I can to resolve this delema.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Ok, here are the results of the "cams removed" leakdown test.

#4 cylinder - air gushes out carb; noticeable air comes out exhaust

#3 cylinder - air gushes out carb; noticeable air comes out exhaust

#2 cylinder - small amount of air comes out carb; tiny bit from exhaust

#1 cylinder - small amount of air comes out carb; teeny tiny bit from exhaust

Now, I assume I should have *NO* air coming from any valve at all if they are completely sealed. These are new so they aren't seated yet, but still they shouldn't really leak I don't think. Also, I assume a small amount of air coming from the oil pan (leaking past rings) is normal, due to the ring gaps.

Let me know the prognosis. Thanks!

PS - Just to make sure I'm not going insane, after taking the head off, I refilled the combustion chamber with solvent. None has yet leaked out! Wierd, it must just be that under pressure, its not seating?? Ack, doesn't make sense.
 
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